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Chart based on 40 repair trips. The repair cost chart excludes repairs made under warranty, do-it-yourself repairs, and repair trips that include maintenance.
2010 Mazda MazdaSpeed3 4dr Hatch
turbocharged 263hp 2.3L I4 6-speed manual FWD
84320 mi
C $400
Drive belt was frayed due to a faulty pulley.
32500 mi
Something to do with fuel sensor causing Check Engine. Apparently a known issue. Sensor (unknown) was replaced. Problem has not reoccurred.
21000 mi
The module for the keyless entry went haywire running the battery dead.
115000 mi
Replace drive belt
2300 mi
car has a low speed miss. car still misses, dealer could not get computer to id problem
4000 mi
Check engine light illuminated due to misfire. Code was cleared and problem did not recur. After clearing code, dealer replaced spark plugs with 2011 model plugs.
Gas cap threads worn down causing cap to come loose and check engine light to come on. Gas cap was replaced.
98000 mi
US $1300
Clutch wore out, had to be replaced. It was only a premature wear of the clutch itself. Nothing else failed. From what I hear, it’s quite common on Mazda 3s.
Intermittently won't start. First after sitting for a couple of days or more, and/or when the weather was very cold. Now progressed to intermittently not starting at anytime. Dealer has been unable to find the problem. Had it in 3 times.
69920 mi
C $211
Engine mount fail
78740 mi
C $800
Replaced [exhaust].
29760 mi
C $150
Check valve cracked and was causing an air leak on the vacuum line that runs from the brake booster to the other side of the air filter. Replaced the entire line, OEM part from Mazda $150 CAD with taxes. CEL light gone.
89000 mi
US $150
Downstream O2 sensor failed after almost 90,000 miles. (Note that the Mazad3 has 2 O2 sensors --- three for California models.) I bought the OE part from the dealer and installed it myself.
111000 mi
US $150
Passenger-side front engine mount failed. This probably happened a loooooooooooong time ago. Mazda dealer quoted ~$450 to replace. Did it myself for $58. ECU reflash to clear Lean Fuel Trim, Bank 1 code 2096. There's a TSB out on this --- nothing wrong with the car, needs software update.
122000 mi
US $200
Replaced front engine oil seal. The mechanic started the car out of time during the procedure, with catastrophic consequences for the engine, but that's not the 3's fault. A very reliable car.
24800 mi
Chirping noise when gear changed assumed from transmission. Dealer said it was the AC Clutch and or the Belt. Replaced both.
Chirping is still there but not nearly as bad.
59700 mi
US $200
Check engine light came on. Too rich of a fuel mix in the emissions. Was told it was in a technical service bulletin. On board computer had to be reflashed. Cost was $247,but with extended warranty deductible, paid $200.
30000 mi
Odd ticking noise coming from PS of engine bay. Took to dealer thinking it may be the VVT issue common on the 2.3. Dealer couldn't duplicate noise but replaced belt tensioner under warranty as it had play & said to contact if noise Took tech on test drive to point out noise and when it happened. Noise was duplicated and serpentine belt was replaced at no charge. Stretched out due to faulty tensioner.
Car would not start. Finally got it started by hitting the gas pedal multiple times, which tells me it might have been related to the gas pump. Dealer said they had recalls on earlier models, checked my car, didnt find any problem.
57000 mi
Very intermittently in cold or wet weather, car would not start. Does not crank. Would start when given heavy throttle input. Likely sticky throttle body or fuel starvation due to some pressure check valve in the fuel system.
94000 mi
Three screws from under the car were broken, two of them. Part of one Al sheet near the exhaust was burnt/corroded and a new screw with a large washer was fit. Two zip-ties (plastic) put to fasten the same kind of loose shield 2 ft farther.
39000 mi
US $17
Serpentine belt idler pulley became noisy. Replaced with a $17 pulley from NAPA. Took less than 15 minutes.
117300 mi
US $60
Had to replace engine coolant sensor, check engine light was still on... replaces thermostat and problem solved. Did it myself with tutorials from youtube. Novice level experience.
Changed out oil and filter, also changed out engine air filter and coolant
122800 mi
C $2000
clutch slipping frequently, replaced
115000 mi
US $20
Replaced the serpentine belt
63000 mi
US $1100
Eradic idle. Replaced mass air flow sensor.
79000 mi
US $255
Replaced drive belt
71600 mi
C $80
Serpentine belt needed changing
115320 mi
C $350
The check engine light was coming on and off with no discernible pattern. The code was no. P04021 (catalyst warm-up efficiency). They cleaned the air mass flowmeter but the light still comes on and off at anytime.
124000 mi
CEL resolved by replacing a sensor in the fuel tank.
126000 mi
US $75
EVAP light kept coming on, even after clearing the code and getting a new gas cap. They were not able to figure out why. Light is still on.
Car is very hard to start in cold weather. Told it's a common problem fixed with a reflash, car already has the latest reflash. No fix available.
10000 mi
Requested assistance with car's horrendous gas mileage.
37000 mi
Oil leak in timing cover. Dealer repaired.
4000 mi
Fuel injector was defective and had to be replaced.
2000 mi
Check engine light came on. I have a OBD reader and it read misfire in cylinder 2...I took car to the dealer, they said it was a common problem and they took care of it by replacing the intake manifold.
See our lemon odds and nada odds page to see vehicles with no repairs or vehicles with more than three repairs. To see how
frequently 2010 Mazda Mazda3 problems occur, check out our car reliability stats.