turbocharged 245hp 2.0L I4 6-speed shiftable automatic AWD
17975 mi | Both rear shocks and bushing went bad. Sounds like marbles rolling around in the back every time there was slight moisture on the shocks and you were accelerating from a stop, slowing to a stop, or taking a slow corner with some weight shift. Apparently seems like a pretty common issue with these Escapes since 2013, but was covered under warrenty. |
52754 mi US $800 |
Changed rear shocks, identified as leaking 1 year ago. |
turbocharged 240hp 2.0L I4 6-speed shiftable automatic AWD
15000 mi | Rear end rattle. Replace both defective shock absorbers. |
22000 mi | Rattle from right rear wheel well when car is driving in wet. Sounds like something is about to fall off. Could not duplicate at dealer because was not raining. |
6000 mi | Drivers side rear shock has failed. |
22320 mi | Replaced rear shocks, were squeaking |
9000 mi | Rear end rattling noise. Replace one defective shock absorber. |
turbocharged 240hp 2.0L I4 6-speed shiftable automatic FWD
5000 mi | The left front wheel bearing went out. |
100421 mi C $496 |
Rear "Dogbones" |
turbocharged 240hp 2.0L I4 6-speed shiftable automatic AWD
5000 mi | Weird random noise like thumping. Occurs randomly not able to reproduce |
30000 mi US $800 |
Dealer replaced all 4 OEM Conti Pro tires because they were at wear bar so that we have good traction in winter. Also wife heard an intermittent and hard to diagnose thumping sound and dealer replaced rear shocks. |
6000 mi | Creaking sound from right rear suspension |
7000 mi | Car continued to make creaking/rattling sound. Determined it was tie-rod end. Took 2 days. |
12000 mi | Rear suspension produces noise when driven at low speeds and suspension actuates. Condition is especially pronounced at low speeds when conditions are wet or when it is raining. |
Replacing rear shocks solved suspension noise problem. Upper shock bushings failed according to the tech. Strange for a car less than a year old. |
35124 mi US $100 |
Strut mounts |
3000 mi | The rh lower control arm ball joint boot was installed incorrectly on the ball joint and, as the ball joint wasn't removable, they replaced the control arm/ball joint assy. |
turbocharged 178hp 1.6L I4 6-speed shiftable automatic FWD
156000 mi US $600 |
Replaced tie rod ends and maintenance items |
turbocharged 178hp 1.6L I4 6-speed shiftable automatic AWD
29760 mi C $100 |
No repair - dealer unable to diagnose. Car 'clicks' when turning - will have to return car to dealer to re-evaluate as cars do not click when you turn. |
32240 mi | When reversing the vehicle at slow speeds and turning (such as backing and turning out of a parking space), the car made a clicking noise as you turned the wheel. First inspection - dealership said the floor mat was hitting the steering column, making the noise. Second time in, they could not replicate it. |
168-horsepower 2.5L I4 6-speed shiftable automatic FWD
31000 mi | rear left shock is bad. |
turbocharged 240hp 2.0L I4 6-speed shiftable automatic FWD
30685 mi | Clicking noise when turning the steering wheel while driving. Upon diagnosis noise was coming from front upper strut top and bearing on both sides. Removed both front struts and replace strut top and bearing for both. Reassembled and road tested; operates as designed. |
51000 mi US $150 |
Rear shock absorber leaking. Replaced both rear shocks. |
turbocharged 240hp 2.0L I4 6-speed shiftable automatic AWD
80000 mi US $200 |
Clunk when going over bumps |
7300 mi | Right front wheel bearing failed. Mechanic said it was bad from the factory. I just noticed at 5k miles it was making grumbling noises which kept getting worse. |
30000 mi | Clunking when going over rough roads or bumps. There was also squeaking when turning the wheel while parking for example. Dealer said it was strut tower bushing assembly failing which they said is fairly common. They replaced both side while it was in. |
29760 mi | Replaced Wheel bearings (covered by warranty). |
127100 mi C $508 |
ball joint and rear bearing right rear bearing |
57660 mi | Clunking sound from rear driving over bumps. |
turbocharged 178hp 1.6L I4 6-speed shiftable automatic AWD
33724 mi | The car started making a "clunking" noise from the rear when I went over a bump. When it got loud enough where I went to the dealer, they said that it needed new rear shocks. |
47210 mi US $49 |
Lately, I've been hearing a ticking noise at very low speeds coming from the rear end. I mentioned it to them, but they couldn't find the problem. |
52000 mi US $350 |
2nd time replaced end with adjustable suspension. Other sides almost locked up allready. Factory has no adjustments. |
66000 mi US $250 |
Stearing box replaced |
Engine not specified
4600 mi | Clunk in rear we are told normal but there is a t.s.b for it |
turbocharged 240hp 2.0L I4 6-speed shiftable automatic FWD
19000 mi | Worn front right tie rod |
23300 mi | The rack was not allowing the steering to naturally return to neutral. |
3000 mi | Front end creaking noise when braking, turning, and over bumps |
81840 mi C $132 |
There was a clunk when a wheel ran over a pot hole or off a low curb etc. I replaced both Front and Rear stabilizer bar links. There is a distinctive clunk from the rear suspension when driving in parking lots and changing direction the suspension is working, thus is on turns and uneven surfaces.Original Rear shocks were replaced with KYB 553392. Problem not solved |
84940 mi C $53 |
There is a clunk from the front suspension when turning at low speed when either front wheel moves up or down. The test drive diagnosed the front struts are the cause of the clunk. but could not tell if the top strut bearing is the source. |
86800 mi C $340 |
A clunk from the front suspesion/steering when turning a low speeds and going ove bumps. The front strut bearings were replaced, also the stabiliser bar support busings were replaced. No improvement in the condition after these repairs. |
86800 mi | When I jacked the car under the floor on one side it would clunk and when I let the jack down it clunked again, seemed like a body or subframe twisting and popping. |
72000 mi US $638 |
Rear Stabilizers |
turbocharged 240hp 2.0L I4 6-speed shiftable automatic AWD
74400 mi | Wheel hub was the problem. Took several visits and several other parts replaced before problem solved. |
21000 mi | Rattle/clunk in rear, dealer replaced rear shock assemblies per TSB 13-07-02. Problem gone. |
50400 mi US $400 |
Tie rod end replaced |
141000 mi US $1300 |
Shocks and struts replaced. Tires that were worn unevenly by worn old struts not replaced, so they still make a subtle sound at low speeds. |
24700 mi | Rear wheel bearing made noise at high speed. Replaced bearing under warranty. |
112508 mi US $900 |
Replaced front struts and lower control arms. Lower ball joint was bad causing a rattle and clunk going over bumps. Also replaced rear upper control arms with adjustable type due to uneven rear tire wear. Wheel alignment. |
43000 mi | Drivers side rear wheel bearing |
31000 mi | Needed ball joint replaced. |
66000 mi US $205 |
Needed to have front passenger side control arm replaced. |
126000 mi US $2000 |
Shocks, rear sway bars, brakes, and front axle seal replacement. |
61070 mi | wheel bearing replacement |
36000 mi | Loud noise traced to faulty front wheel bearing. Replaced under mfg drivetrain warranty. |
46000 mi | wheel bearing, hub, and front axle replaced due to bad wheel bearing. |
44000 mi US $1590 |
plus both rear shocks |
4000 mi | Undefined noise. Ford is aware of it and has no solution to date |
10000 mi | Noise in control arm, responded to TSB |
turbocharged 178hp 1.6L I4 6-speed shiftable automatic AWD
89000 mi US $389 |
Lower Ball joint was shot on passenger front. Tie-rod end was shot on passenger front |
96000 mi | Tie rod end went bad again and was replaced under warranty. |
124000 mi US $300 |
This is the 4th time that the tie-rod end has gone bad. |
38000 mi | replaced right front grease seal Broken sway bar connection, the day after I got it back from the grease seal repair. |
240-horsepower 3.0L V6 6-speed automatic FWD
98180 mi C $2500 |
Left front Strut leaking and making knocking sound and vibration on rough pavement |
57340 mi C $1500 |
Replaced front struts and rear shock absorbers with non-OEM components (original parts were worn, to the extent the vehicle could not be aligned). Alignment completed. |
93000 mi C $700 |
Rattle noises; shop identified worn links and replaced |
240-horsepower 3.0L V6 6-speed automatic AWD
33000 mi | Left rear and Right rear shock absorbers, the Left leaked. |
171-horsepower 2.5L I4 6-speed automatic FWD
6700 mi | Suspension noise. Repair required |
171-horsepower 2.5L I4 5-speed manual FWD
8197 mi US $82 |
4 wheel alignment |
30095 mi US $150 |
4 wheel alignment 3/year program |
240-horsepower 3.0L V6 6-speed automatic FWD
53700 mi C $50 |
Replaced sway bars links with after market parts, |
58900 mi C $1000 |
replaced steering column due to traction control going off, found a broken harness connector on the printed circuit board prior the brake control value was replaced but not effective. |
101680 mi C $50 |
Replaced sway bar links |
124000 mi C $500 |
front struts and rear shocks |
13020 mi | While turning left or right corners clunking sound from front end heard/felt. Dealer replaced both front stabilizer links at no charge. Better, but not gone, shop says to bring it back. |
19840 mi | Clunking fixed by replacing another front-end component. |
220100 mi C $200 |
two wheel bearings and two ball joints needed for safety certification. |
240-horsepower 3.0L V6 6-speed automatic AWD
37900 mi C $400 |
Mild, but annoying, binding and releasing of steering at on-centre position makes it difficult to drive in a normal manner at highway speeds. Dealer acknowledged problem, replaced steering shaft, problem not solved. Still annoyed. |
38280 mi | Replaced all 4 sway bar end links, 2 front and 2 rear. |
148800 mi C $100 |
Replaced passenger side lower front control arm due to end-of-life ball joint. Rubber boot on ball joint failed causing ball joint failure. Replaced with aftermarket part. |
101000 mi | Since the last trip to the dealer, the truck has started to make some rattling noises under the hood. Thought it was a loose part, the dealer quickly said it was the front stabilizer links. I guess it's a common problem. |
113154 mi | The front end of the car began to make a howling noise at highway speeds. Started suddenly, not gradually, as I'd expect a part like this to fail. Employer got the estimate to replace the wheel bearing, but they declined to fix, they ordered a new car for me instead. |
15500 mi | link ends were lose and needed to be changed. |
34800 mi | Sway bar replaced. |
33200 mi C $400 |
Replace joint and stub shaft because of leading seal. |
171-horsepower 2.5L I4 6-speed automatic FWD
13640 mi | front end clunking caused by worn stabilizer bushings and worn front struts only a few weeks since last repair and front end clunking over bumps and significant front end body roll present again |
125000 mi C $1000 |
stabilizer replacement |
66960 mi C $174 |
Tie rod replaced on left side. |
66960 mi C $154 |
Place left sway bars end |
66340 mi C $100 |
Right side stabilizer link repaired |
171-horsepower 2.5L I4 6-speed automatic AWD
18800 mi | stabilizer links |
127000 mi US $2500 |
Struts & shocked needed to be replaced. Normal wear and tear, as the original had over 120K miles on them. |
35340 mi | Steering system seal replaced. The fault was noticed by the dealer during routine, scheduled maintenance. There was no symptoms noticeable by me. |
49600 mi C $300 |
No symptoms noticed by me. This repair was recommended during regular service. |
240-horsepower 3.0L V6 6-speed automatic FWD
114000 mi US $335 |
Stabilizer replaced |
72000 mi US $240 |
front end lower control arms and bushings |
57000 mi US $120 |
Leaking rear shock absorber, replaced both rear shocks |
41000 mi US $328 |
rear shocks were leaking slightly and I had them repaired with a lifetime warantee |
240-horsepower 3.0L V6 6-speed automatic AWD
59520 mi C $500 |
replaced worn out stabalizer joints |
59520 mi C $1131 |
Front Struts Rear shocks Wheel aligniment |
62900 mi US $25 |
replaced the front sway bar links, usual problem for ford. |
68600 mi US $45 |
I replaced the rear stabilizer links |
11360 mi | Clanking, knocking noise going over speed bumps or over pot holes. Dealer replaced sway bar. Dealer noticed steering wheel was squeaking when turned left or right. Replaced power steering motor. |
62000 mi US $185 |
Both sway bars replaced on front. |
12800 mi | change link kit (front) |
87000 mi US $200 |
Stabilizer bar. Informed dealer of issue prior to trade. |
82000 mi US $190 |
Had normal maintenance brake pads replaced, discovered Sway Bar Links needed replacement |
88000 mi | Ford recall 14S05 Electric Power Steering (EPS) assist reprogram |
48400 mi US $140 |
Replaced the sway bar links. |
51000 mi US $250 |
Worn sway bar bolts and bushings. Parts replaced. |
103000 mi US $750 |
Car made creaking sound when the steering wheel was turned in either direction; worse when car was first started. Shop replaced worn front left and right strut assemblies and sway links. |
81000 mi US $250 |
Had a front end rattle when hitting a small bump in the road (i.e. manhole cover or storm grate). Dealer id'ed passenger side "float bearing", a nylon bearing that had broken and required replacing. It fixed the rattle. |
32000 mi | Sway bar on the rear suspension wore prematurely and became loose. Its a known problem with these models, brought to dealer to be replaced under warrenty |
113000 mi US $300 |
Dealer advised that a front end alignment wasn't possible due to warn ball joints. Replaced ourselves, an whole aftermarket lower suspension arm was purchased and installed. Despite what the dealership said, the original components didn't appear to show excessive wear, but based on milage, they were going to have to be replaced fairly soon anyway. |
171-horsepower 2.5L I4 6-speed automatic FWD
53000 mi US $20 |
passenger tie rod had some play in it. Changed it out with a Moog. |
76880 mi C $160 |
broken link |
91020 mi C $135 |
broken link |
54000 mi US $100 |
Clunking noise from front end. R&R LF worn stabilizer link. 5486a kit - stabilizer bar link - front |
151100 mi US $500 |
Several parts of the suspension were replaced |
189000 mi US $600 |
Tie rods worn and bent |
171-horsepower 2.5L I4 6-speed automatic AWD
55860 mi C $100 |
Replaced the broken wheel bearing. |
123960 mi C $825 |
Replace rear sway bar links, Replace bushings |
90000 mi US $348 |
Had a horrible noise coming form front end - kinda like something dragging but wasn't brakes. Front passenger side wheel loose. Took into dealer, found that both wheel bearings needed to be changed. |
153-horsepower 2.5L I4 Hybrid CVT FWD
75000 mi US $640 |
Bushing replace (front left) |
153-horsepower 2.5L I4 Hybrid CVT AWD
122000 mi US $218 |
Rattling noise turned out to be sway bar links. Replaced by dealership. Vehicle also checked over for anything else and came up clean. |
240-horsepower 3.0L V6 6-speed automatic FWD
10000 mi | creaking in passenger side suspension |
13000 mi | bushings |
240-horsepower 3.0L V6 6-speed automatic AWD
105400 mi C $200 |
Front wheel bearing |
101000 mi US $60 |
Replaced right front tie-rod end Replaced both rear sway bar tie-rod ends. |
140000 mi US $850 |
Front ball joints, with attached control arms replaced. |
18000 mi US $450 |
Ball joints replaced - Ford blamed this on towing, though I believe the problem existed prior to. |
39980 mi C $108 |
Front sway bars rattling. Both needed changing. |
41540 mi C $170 |
Lots of front end noise and similar noise from rear. Clunking, hollow rattling type noise going slow or fast over small bumps. Replaced rear sway bar links and tightened up front link. Sill hear a noise from front end. |
88660 mi C $50 |
Clunk in front end over bumps, changed the stabilizer links, all good now! |
107200 mi C $108 |
Replaced balljoint on passenger side. The transmission had a recall for leaking seals when the Escape was new, the tech damaged the ball joint boot when taking off the control arm. So over time water and dirt got in and caused it to fail prematurely. |
52080 mi | Been advised that the front control arm bushings were failing & that the entire control arms have to be replaced on both sides (Ford does not allow you to just replace the bushings!). This is very disappointing. |
47500 mi | Noise over bumps |
14860 mi | Drivers Side wheel bearing replaced. Mechanic found problem during test drive after fixing the halfshaft. |
171-horsepower 2.5L I4 6-speed automatic AWD
19220 mi | grinding noise easy free repair dealer awesome |
56420 mi | change driver side front wheel bearing, 2 rear trailing arm links and bushings |
153-horsepower 2.5L I4 Hybrid CVT FWD
21800 mi US $450 |
Rear suspension parts. |
66000 mi US $400 |
Sway bar |
156000 mi US $372 |
The car was making a wub wub wub wub noise that got louder at higher speeds. Les Schwab diagnosed it was a worn-out wheel hub and bearing and repaired it. |
153-horsepower 2.5L I4 Hybrid CVT AWD
211000 mi US $400 |
Replaced all shocks and struts |
76260 mi C $650 |
Electric power steering boost failed completely, no warning. Known problem with Ford Escape Hybrids, but no recall yet. The repair requires replacing the entire steering column assembly. Update: later recalled and I was reimbursed $2233. |
97960 mi C $280 |
Coupler-to-steering shaft bolt came loose. Very dangerous, I reported this to Transport Canada, should be recalled. |
109120 mi C $780 |
Replaced both sway bar links, and one tie rod end. |
109720 mi C $610 |
Replaced one failing front wheel bearing. |
112840 mi C $854 |
replaced left lower control arm with ball joint, $354 |
126480 mi C $550 |
Replaced right outer tie rod and probably a sway bar link |
136400 mi C $350 |
Lower control arm |
166780 mi C $496 |
Replaced from swaybar frame bushings and left front outer tie rod |
79000 mi US $250 |
Front Suspension was making clunking noise - upon inspection front sway bar links were worn and needed replacement |
141000 mi US $150 |
Front Sway bar link's were worn and loose and replaced. |
200-horsepower 3.0L V6 4-speed automatic FWD
180000 mi US $23 |
Outer tie rod worn. |
182600 mi US $25 |
Replaced worn tie rod end (other side) |
36580 mi | Replace worn lower control arms |
96820 mi C $300 |
Replaced drivers side front wheel hub |
48000 mi | I was having problems with loose steering as well as clicking when turning my steering wheel. On my way to the airport I was making a corner on a cloverleaf and my steering wheel locked up not allowing me to turn my truck. Had to slam brake. |
81000 mi | Replaced struts. |
64480 mi C $1500 |
Replaced U link and tie rod |
200-horsepower 3.0L V6 4-speed automatic AWD
51000 mi US $500 |
Replaced sway bar links |
92380 mi C $3093 |
Also tie-rod ends |
99200 mi C $200 |
Same day I picked up car from tailpipe repair, I noticed a heavy grinding in the driver side front steering mechanism which was not there when I originally dropped off the car. It sounded like the wheel was grinding on the axle - terrible noise. I took the vehicle back to same repair shop & asked that it be fixed ASAP as I was driving out of town for a scheduled appointment in two days. The shop replaced only the wheel bearing on front left side of vehicle. |
27600 mi | Steering link discovered loose during regular oil change. Parts ordered by dealer and repaired successfully. |
10000 mi | Car in for oil change, mechanic discovered leaking rear shock |
110000 mi | control arms, axle, front struts, rear shocks, front caliper |
20460 mi | During visit for oil change and brake job, mechanic noticed front left sway bar linkage needed to be replaced. |
26660 mi | Bushing on sway bar linkage. |
38440 mi | Got car back and noticeable knocking sound in front. Stabilizer bar links cracked... again. Very weak metal. |
29760 mi | Front strut top stabilizers loose/worn; replaced under warranty |
50220 mi C $550 |
rear shock absorbers worn & leaking, replaced with non-OEM parts |
66100 mi C $200 |
LF Swaybar End Link replaced |
85560 mi C $300 |
Universal joint in steering column failed, replaced |
55400 mi US $250 |
Sway bar links replaced |
135780 mi C $67 |
4 wheel align. Required every year |
144460 mi C $200 |
4 wheel align |
53940 mi C $250 |
Front torsion bar linkage worn out. Needs to be replaced |
59920 mi C $500 |
Replacement of front wheel bearings |
90000 mi US $550 |
Front wheel bearing wobbled and was replaced and car aligned. |
94300 mi US $250 |
Rear wheel bearing noisy and replaced. |
25659 mi | Ok, this is the third time I've tried to enter this, not going to retype everything again. Two front sway bar (or stabilizer bar) links replaced in Dec 2008 at the same time the fluid leak was fixed. Covered under warranty. |
25000 mi | dealer detected idler arm problem during test drive at a scheduled maintenance visit- was repaired under warranty at no cost |
164000 mi US $1500 |
power steering chip went out replaced full steering colum |
93000 mi US $370 |
The universal joint in the steering shaft had broken. Shop replaced the steering shaft, as the joint alone is not replaceable. |
153-horsepower 2.3L I4 4-speed automatic FWD
74400 mi | Steering loosing power and going to manual, covered by a recall. |
97000 mi C $4000 |
u joint in the steering was changed |
39260 mi C $226 |
Pothole related |
153-horsepower 2.3L I4 4-speed automatic AWD
68000 mi | Driver side wheel bearing |
77000 mi | Replaced driver side wheel bearing. |
46000 mi | Replaced sway bar link. Parts came from NAPA |
151900 mi C $180 |
Sway bar links worn out. Replaced them and everythink good now. |
133-horsepower 2.3L I4 Hybrid CVT FWD
118000 mi US $350 |
The tie rods needed to be replaced. |
82000 mi US $350 |
poor gas mileage - grinding noise. replaced drivers front wheel bearing |
24800 mi | intermittently a loud "clunk" was heard and felt when braking in reverse and sometimes when turning the steering wheel. Replaced front 2 lower control arms. |
107000 mi US $149 |
Replace boot cover on tie-rod |
58280 mi | Developed clunk at low speeds on left side. Both left and right end links were replaced under factory extended warranty |
65000 mi US $300 |
Leaking hydraulic system part - affected steering and ABS |
200-horsepower 3.0L V6 4-speed automatic AWD
145000 mi US $559 |
L/F bub and wheel bearing |
88400 mi US $1400 |
Tie Rod passenger side needed replacement. |
98000 mi US $200 |
Replaced rear shocks |
133-horsepower 2.3L I4 Hybrid CVT FWD
66000 mi US $1000 |
The power steering went out. The Power Steering Control Module was found to be faulty and was replaced. I'm lucky the part went out in my driveway and not on the freeway. |
33000 mi US $804 |
Rattle in front end was worn/damaged bushings and extensions of stabilizer bar links |
95000 mi US $2500 |
All 4 tie rod ends replaced. Too much play |
110400 mi US $1300 |
Replaced control arm and all joint due to a worn socket |
118000 mi US $225 |
Broken shock absorbers in rear |
125000 mi US $850 |
Inner and outer tie rods replaced. |
141000 mi US $1100 |
Power steering broke down. Rack needed to be replaced + lower part of steering column. |
61000 mi US $220 |
Replaced rear shocks to prepare for a long trip. Were starting to show signs of wear. |
103600 mi US $450 |
replace worn tie rod ends, plus 4-wheel alignment |
169000 mi US $200 |
Steering wheel loose. Steering wheel was loose and bolts were tightened. |
180000 mi US $60 |
The power steering quit working. The repair costs more than the car. Opted not to repair. Driving is now a good upper body workout. |
226000 mi US $800 |
Tie rods replaced. |
200-horsepower 3.0L V6 4-speed automatic FWD
223000 mi US $450 |
Tie rod ends replaced, requiring an alignment |
161000 mi US $250 |
Need to replace shocks, tie rods, some other suspension pieces next. Begin to be worn. Also need to replace front 2 tires due to extensive wear. |
200-horsepower 3.0L V6 4-speed automatic AWD
32240 mi C $700 |
Worn ball joints, after 50000 kms |
32860 mi C $10 |
Decided to get second opinion (dealer gave first one) Had Mechanic check ball joints on hoist, he said and I concurred, no indication my car needed repair, he was not aware of dealers notice. My charge : $10.00 |
53320 mi C $350 |
front wheel bearings |
55800 mi C $1000 |
Lower Control arm? realignment part of repair. |
60760 mi C $1350 |
Right hand tie rod end loose. |
87000 mi US $80 |
Had a clunking coming from the front end area. Noted the most likely diagnosis was the stabilizer bar links as these fail frequently. Replaced with moog aftermarket links that can be lubricated. |
112000 mi US $82 |
I was getting a rattling noise when going over bumps in the front left. The shop replaced the tie rod end on that side and the rattling is gone. |
129000 mi US $400 |
The left front wheel bearing was worn out and replaced. |
96000 mi US $92 |
Replaced worn sway bar end links to clear clunking noise in front suspension |
117700 mi US $600 |
Installed new KYB Quick Struts and KYB shocks on rear of vehicle |
46500 mi C $2000 |
Suspension repairs were required in order to pass safety inspection. The safety inspection had to be passed in order to transfer the vehicle's registration to my name (I just bought it as a used vehicle through a private sale.) |
168200 mi C $200 |
Ball joint worn on passenger side. Heard clunking noise anytime there was rough pavement. Replaced entire control arm with ball joints on both sides as this was cheaper than just the ball joints. Also replaced both stabilizer links. |
41200 mi US $600 |
Sway bar was replaced |
58000 mi US $700 |
Bad wheel bearing and tie rod ends also replaced control arms |
84000 mi US $460 |
Noticed whirring sound coming from under the hood. The pulsing whirring sound was proportional to wheel speed. Brought to shop. Replaced RF wheel bearing and hub. |
153-horsepower 2.3L I4 5-speed manual FWD
18700 mi | Warranty power steering hose replacement for leaking hose at 5,000 mi.. Dealer had trouble getting part and verifying the problem until a year later. |
35900 mi US $80 |
Replaced both outer tie rod ends.The dust boots were deteriorated/crumbly.Ford rubber,it seems,to me,is of inferior quality.Hope the new rubber holds up. Overall the rubber I've replaced include tie rod ends,motor mount&windshield cowl. Replaced both outer tie rod ends.The dust boots were deteriorated/crumbly.Ford rubber,it seems,to me,is of inferior quality.Hope the new rubber holds up. Overall the rubber I've replaced include tie rod ends,motor mount&windshield cowl. |
153-horsepower 2.3L I4 4-speed automatic FWD
170000 mi US $500 |
Replaced Wheel bearing and steering alignment after repair |
153-horsepower 2.3L I4 4-speed automatic AWD
80600 mi | Needed to replace the tie-rods bushings |
195000 mi US $596 |
Left wheel hub replaced. Left tie rod also replaced after wear noticed. Realigned after repair. |
145000 mi US $2100 |
wheel bearings worn, replaced |
133-horsepower 2.3L I4 Hybrid CVT FWD
162000 mi US $800 |
New inner and outer Tie rods |
133000 mi US $1018 |
Tie rod end bearings worn. Replaced during safety inspection |
133-horsepower 2.3L I4 Hybrid CVT AWD
182000 mi | tie rods, |
65000 mi US $850 |
inner tie rods both sides, also had another problem included in price above - check engine light was coming on - it was a problem with the fan for the battery (hybrid). |
103700 mi US $50 |
Both driver and passenger stabilizer bar links ends went bad. Had to replace both. |
107000 mi US $275 |
Replaced driver inner tie rod. |
110000 mi US $160 |
D&P side lower ball joints were bad. Replaced both including lower control arms. |
116000 mi US $260 |
Replaced passenger inner tie rod end. |
118334 mi US $400 |
Replaced front L and R Shock assembly including shocks, struts, top mounts, dust covers, and bushings. |
123976 mi US $25 |
Replaced sway bar bushings. Helped clunking but did not fix the front end noise |
135000 mi US $40 |
Replaced the drivers side stabilizer bar end link |
139250 mi US $80 |
Replaced Drivers side inner and outer tie rod ends due to rattling over bumps. This was the final suspension item to replace on the driver's side and although it seems to have helped the noise and the outer tie rod was very worn, the rattling is still present and myself and both my mechanics are unable to find the reason. |
145000 mi US $80 |
Had to replace both rear shock absorbers because the top mounts rusted away and broke. |
89000 mi US $980 |
new front wheel bearings and new struts and shocks. Also had new brake pads on front wheels. |
42000 mi US $260 |
Rear wheel bearing replaced. Also ended up having all four rotors replaced to get rid of shaking on stopping. |
64000 mi US $490 |
Replace loose inner tie rods |
94000 mi US $362 |
Left front bearing replaced. |
131000 mi US $1929 |
Lots of rattling up front. I knew this was coming but had not attended to it yet. Right side lower control arm and left side inner tie rod. |
73000 mi US $500 |
Replaced tie-rods. |
95000 mi US $711 |
It was brought to a 3rd party who changed bearings which fixed the issue |
200-horsepower 3.0L V6 4-speed automatic FWD
130000 mi US $600 |
Replaced Tie-rod end, lower control arms, Left front half shaft, right front tone ring, struts, rotors, all four wheel sensors. Prompted by display showing ABS light and Service 4x4.Inspected front suspension and found multiple problems |
82100 mi US $340 |
Rear shocks needed to be replaced due to low fluid. |
98000 mi US $350 |
Replaced tie rod |
36264 mi US $208 |
Replaced right rear shock -- failed possibly due to severe weather conditions (heat stress) per dealer |
92000 mi US $500 |
Replaced both L+R inner and outer tie rods, one side worn bad other not terrible but replaced both sides Both L+R sway bar links were worn out Replaced both front struts The rear control arms have ball joints which were worn out on both sides. I replaced both control arms (comes as an assembly with ball joint installed) Both L+R front ball joints had torn boots and were out of grease and full of dirt. Replaced with new ball joints. |
121000 mi US $200 |
Tie rods were bad. Needed 2 new tires. Bought 4 new tires. |
140000 mi US $200 |
Passenger side control arm replaced |
154000 mi US $1907 |
Tie Rod end was broken Stabilizer bar needed replacement |
60000 mi US $1200 |
Rear shocks, front strut bushings, spark plugs 10000ths over gap, replaced with new plugs and had 60k miles maintenance performed. |
188480 mi C $40 |
Replaced outer tie rod ends |
200-horsepower 3.0L V6 4-speed automatic AWD
137000 mi US $400 |
Broken strut |
102000 mi | Electronic power steering went out. Ouch! The power steering hose come off the day after the power steering was fixed. Free towing, free rental car, and much scraping and groveling from the the repair shop. The problem was fixed. |
201000 mi US $141 |
Worn sway bars noticed by mechanic. Replaced. |
219000 mi US $223 |
Replaced rear shocks |
138029 mi US $913 |
Replace front left lower control arm |
189200 mi US $450 |
New struts, rear shocks, lower control arms |
191000 mi US $800 |
Both front control arms, |
20000 mi US $65 |
"Clunk" noise from Driver side rear. Both rear shocks were leaking hydraulic fluid. Was told by dealer that Struts were covered under extended warranty but, not shocks. Noise in left rear-shocks bad-replaced myself |
41875 mi US $17 |
Front Passenger Stud Broke off |
133000 mi US $160 |
Front right wheel bearing replaced |
154000 mi US $400 |
Replaced lower control arm and ball joint at same time, along with sway link and front brake pads. |
162000 mi US $200 |
Replaced both front wheel bearings and drivers side ball joint/lower control arm assy and outer tie rod end due to orig. rubber cracking. |
92000 mi | Loose and/or broken stabilizer links |
66960 mi C $200 |
Outer passenger tie-rod ball joint seized. |
78120 mi C $330 |
Driver side wheelbearing replaced. Driver side wheelbearing replaced |
84940 mi C $200 |
Sway bar bushing on the drivers side required replacing. |
65000 mi US $250 |
Replaced left front wheel bearing because it was noisy. Sounded like I was running snow tires. |
89280 mi C $1200 |
replace 3 wheel bearings and lower control arm and tone ring. |
127100 mi C $700 |
Tie Rod and Ball Joints replaced |
149420 mi C $1000 |
ball joints and wheel bearings |
62000 mi US $672 |
BAD WHEEL BEARINGS FRONT DRIVERS SIDE AND PASSENGER SIDE. |
47000 mi US $650 |
Replaced right front wheel bearing. |
53320 mi C $200 |
Replaced left front wheel bearing, $40. |
53320 mi | Rear Suspension reported leaking and will need a repair soon. Delaying a bit. Battery also reported as weak, but no starting problems. |
58900 mi C $350 |
Rear suspension reported as leaking a few months ago, but no driving symptoms apparent. Repaired at convenient time. |
88000 mi US $1419 |
Broken bolt on the lower control arm, complete sud frame with both lower control arms replaced. Parts were bought at a junk yard. |
92000 mi US $300 |
Tie rod ends needed changing to pass state inspection |
102000 mi US $1500 |
Also right lower ball joint replaced. |
106000 mi US $1600 |
Left side Wheel bearing and left side ball joint replaced. |
119000 mi US $500 |
Replaced both tie rod ends and both stabalizer links |
60000 mi US $750 |
replaced rear shocks, front brakes and rotors. flushed and replaced brake fluid and transmission fluid |
28000 mi US $800 |
Customer complained that car was pulling to the left. After inspection, both left and right control arms were replaced and a 4 wheel alignment was performed. |
153-horsepower 2.3L I4 5-speed manual FWD
117000 mi US $200 |
Passenger side rear shock mount was showing signs of failure due to corrosion. Purchased a kit to mount shock to frame instead of factory location. |
153-horsepower 2.3L I4 5-speed manual AWD
110700 mi US $650 |
Right Lower Ball Joint,and Right Outer Tie Rod End. |
113300 mi US $307 |
Replaced right front wheel bearings. |
87500 mi US $314 |
Replaced right font wheel bearing and then required an alignment. |
153-horsepower 2.3L I4 4-speed automatic FWD
109000 mi US $58 |
Seal inside P/S pressure switch ruptured allowing P/S fluid to leak out end of switch. |
37200 mi | 2. replaced leaking power steering high-pressure hose (upper) rattling underneath the chassis - isolated not to be anti-sway bar bushing/anti-sway bar link, not tie-rods |
153-horsepower 2.3L I4 4-speed automatic AWD
80000 mi US $900 |
Front sway bar needed to be replaced |
82000 mi US $450 |
Passenger side rear wheel bearing failed and needed to be replaced. Difficult job. |
89700 mi US $780 |
Passenger side rear wheel-bearing failed again, excessive play, greater than 1" play. Front passenger side wheel-bearing bad, noisy. |
133-horsepower 2.3L I4 Hybrid CVT AWD
124600 mi US $175 |
Tie -rod also replaced. |
131000 mi US $195 |
Rear shock replacement, sway bar |
201-horsepower 3.0L V6 4-speed automatic FWD
134000 mi US $50 |
Had the famous Clunk Clunk when driving, replaced the sway bar link with moog K80104 parts, here.s a how to: http://www.escape-central.com/1forum/showthread.php?threadid=34182 |
99200 mi C $160 |
Front wheel bearing,drivers side. |
92000 mi | Bought this vehicle on June 14, 2011. Drove it 3 days and power steering fluid pump went out. Has a 2 month warranty for anything that goes wrong. |
201-horsepower 3.0L V6 4-speed automatic AWD
113000 mi US $200 |
Passenger strut spring broke. Replaced with Monroe quick strut since it comes with spring on it. |
60000 mi US $1100 |
Fixed tie rod, end links. |
125000 mi US $87 |
Squeaking when turning steering wheel. |
112000 mi US $95 |
clunk front suspension, replaced sway bar end link |
97000 mi US $570 |
Worn front ball joints, attached to control arms so have to replace all of it. |
68200 mi C $140 |
just parts only, I did labor, front hub bearings had to be replaced. |
93620 mi C $50 |
Ball joints and stabilizer links |
69000 mi US $32 |
replaced sway bar links |
74000 mi US $100 |
Replace rear shocks |
99000 mi US $50 |
Front wheel bearings where replaced - causing noise |
50000 mi US $100 |
Car was making squeaking/groaning noise when turning steering wheel at parking lot speeds. Shop replaced one tie rod end, problem solved. |
67000 mi US $300 |
Car was clunking when turning corners. Tie rod end was determined to be bad and replaced. Was told that steering rack is leaking fluid. Dealer did not recommend action at this point, only to monitor fluid level. This is unusual and very disappointing for a vehicle with low miles. Engine makes whining/grinding noise upon cold start. Dealer claimed power steering fluid was low and that was causing the problem. Topped up fluid, but the problem remains just as bad. |
67000 mi US $515 |
Independent shop replaced power steering pump. Leak fixed. |
69000 mi | Noise at starup continues to be a problem. Had dealer purge power steering system, repair not successful. |
72500 mi US $461 |
Broken sway bar links were causing clunking noises when going over bumps |
201-horsepower 3.0L V6 4-speed automatic FWD
113000 mi US $1660 |
put in new bearings, new stabilizers,tie rods |
137000 mi US $250 |
Started to leak Steering Fluid. Investigated and had Pump Housing Crack. Installed new Power Steering pump, gaskets, hoses, clamps,etc. Real Pain in the Arse. |
120900 mi C $200 |
DS rear wheel bearing |
118500 mi US $400 |
Replaced tie rod ends. Front end alignment by David's Automotive in The Colony. |
122200 mi | ball joint |
125000 mi US $150 |
front right bearing, left & right lower control arm |
150000 mi US $100 |
Replaced right front bearing & tie rod |
166200 mi US $150 |
replaced rear wheel bearings |
34100 mi C $50 |
Sway bar end links, both sides |
60760 mi C $40 |
Outer tie rod end was loose; replaced with $30 in parts. |
136000 mi US $20 |
Replaced worn sway bar links. Replaced worn sway bar links |
78300 mi US $1300 |
Ordinary wear and tear |
201-horsepower 3.0L V6 4-speed automatic AWD
119000 mi US $200 |
Front stabilizer bar loose |
176000 mi US $474 |
sway bar links and a wheel bearing |
118000 mi US $275 |
Tie rod ends worn out, needed replacement. Were making a 'knocking' or 'fluttering' sound when going over uneven pavement or bumps. |
157000 mi US $190 |
Vehicle is making a loud clunking noise (again) when travelling over lightly rutted/bumpy roads. Mechanic advised undercarriage so rusted that suspension repair would not make financial sense. Driving vehicle into ground and will replace. |
110000 mi US $577 |
Tie rod or other suspension part replaced |
110300 mi US $250 |
Rear wheel hubs |
115000 mi US $135 |
Stabilizer rattled |
155000 mi | Power steering pump leaking |
190900 mi US $200 |
Replaced worn inner tie rods |
230000 mi US $200 |
Replaced both front lower control arm assemblies. Ball joints were in bad need of replacement. Installed (front) new rotors and pads. |
62500 mi US $600 |
wheel bearing replaced. shock absorbers replaced |
63000 mi US $350 |
Lower control arm bushings were worn - buldging, cracked. Replaced entire arm = new arm, new bushings and ball joints. |
58280 mi C $400 |
tie rod diver side |
85000 mi US $400 |
New sway bar end links |
108000 mi US $1000 |
New left front wheel bearing and control arm. New front left wheel bearing and lower control arm. |
146200 mi US $612 |
Replaced right front control arm |
122000 mi US $450 |
Front left control arm replaced. |
145000 mi US $350 |
Right front ball joint New front right ball joint |
152000 mi US $370 |
Right inner tie rod replacement |
154300 mi US $1200 |
New shocks and struts. New stabilizer bar and tie rods . |
165000 mi US $300 |
I supplied shocks and struts/springs that I had bought for my mechanic to install. |
109120 mi C $653 |
Ball joints needed to be replaced. Overall deducted $653 in reconditioning costs when traded. |
142600 mi C $400 |
Passenger side front Wheel hub was warped. According to the dealership, this has never happened before, to any Escape. |
24620 mi C $212 |
replaced both front swa7y bar links |
93620 mi C $405 |
The lower/return (non-pressure) power steering line had a leak, this was replaced at a local repair shop. |
201-horsepower 3.0L V6 4-speed automatic FWD
83000 mi US $521 |
Replaced worn leaky shocks and struts. |
66100 mi US $720 |
Replaced shock absorbers. |
64000 mi US $25 |
Experienced a clunking when going over bumps. Self diagnosed as the Stabilizer links. Replaced them with Moog links with a zerks for greasing. Eliminated the issue. Also 60,000 mile maintenance, i.e. fuel filter, radiator flush, etc. |
76000 mi US $275 |
Left front wheel bearing bad, dealer replaced |
78000 mi US $585 |
Replaced right front wheel bearing, right front drive axle carrier bearing. Performed 4 wheel alignment while in shop also. |
201-horsepower 3.0L V6 4-speed automatic AWD
115940 mi C $534 |
Replace lower control arm right front |
89000 mi US $450 |
Rattle/clunking from front end. Control arm bushings and ball joint sockets worn. Both front lower control arms replaced. |
95000 mi US $950 |
Front struts replaced because top coil of passenger spring broke off. |
98000 mi US $415 |
sway bar and control bar repairs need to fix excessive suspension noise |
117800 mi C $80 |
Replaced sway bar links |
210000 mi US $700 |
The power steering fluid reserve was cracked. |
97100 mi US $414 |
Replace RF wheel bearing |
148000 mi US $293 |
Replaced noisy RF wheel bearing |
197300 mi US $240 |
Replaced LF wheel bearing |
200000 mi US $1949 |
Replaced right inner tie rod, both lower control arms, left outer tie rod end, wheel alignment, |
145000 mi US $100 |
rf wheel bearing noisy. both fronts replaced at 90000/covered under warranty by NAPA, I tipped my service guy $100 upon leaving the shop. He had already warrantied the lf wheel bearing at 100000 miles |
114000 mi US $100 |
Replaced bad bearing to increase trade in value. |
109000 mi US $300 |
Replaced both bar ends. |
74000 mi | Squeaking and crunching noise from right front. Replaced tie rod ends and struts. |
201-horsepower 3.0L V6 4-speed automatic FWD
92000 mi US $250 |
Coil spring snapped, replaced left and right front suspension with loaded struts. |
124000 mi US $300 |
Clunking noise in front end. I replaced strut assembly and sway bar end links |
201-horsepower 3.0L V6 4-speed automatic AWD
39000 mi US $300 |
car wandered and the problem was worn front stabilizers. |
39000 mi US $700 |
Car continues to wander at speed. Both lower A arms replaced, problem persists. |
42200 mi US $677 |
tie rod replaced, car still wanders |
43000 mi US $950 |
second tie-rod replaced, steering now seems safe. |