When the car runs on the gas motor it vibrates thru the steering wheel, gas pedal, brake pedal.And makes a lot of noise from the engine. When it goes back to electric, it has no vibration & no noise. Dealer said this is normal for the hybrid
When the car runs in gas mode only the engine is very noisy and has a lot of vibration coming thru steering wheel, center console etc. The tech had me drive a new Fusion Hybrid & it did the same thing. Plan on getting rid of car ASAP.
Gas engine vibrates & makes excessive noise. Runs fine when in electric mode.
Check engine light was on. Diagnosis was done but no fault was found. The check engine light was reset.
Fuel tank does not fill completely. The Ford representative re-calibrated the gauge cluster but the vehicle is still having the issue.
16 gallon tank would not accept more than 12 gallons when showed empty.
Gas tank would not fill completely. Tank replaced.
TSB 13-06-03: Gas Tank only allows 12-13 gallons on fill (16.5 gallon capacity). Requires tank to be replaces as well as computer reset. Vehicle started leaking fuel, rock got stuck in o-ring and created a gap. The seal was replaced. Gas tank was replaced and SYNC was reset, however I filled immediately after leaving dealership and with 11 miles to empty I was only able to put in 13.084 gallons.
Lose bolt on the tailpipe, dealer tighten the bolt.
Fuel tank and fuel pump replacement
Car was hard to start immediately after refueling. It ended up throwing a check engine light with a code P1450. I changed the evaporative canister Purge Solenoid located under the hood and it fixed the problem.
Oil leak. Ended up being front engine cover being loose from factory.
Recall for Fuel module. Parts initially not available. Finally done after fuel started leaking, and codes thrown. Still a fuel leak when filling car, but not as bad as before. Plugged vapor tube no parts available, have ordered them.
Fuel module and gasket replaced under warranty and was subject to recall, but was also leaking fuel when filled, so vapor tube was also repaired. This seems to fix the leak but I have not driven the car since Dec 1 as I am in Hawaii.
I was driving from Canada to Palm Springs when the check engine light came on and 'check fuel inlet' error message came on. It also dumped fuel again under the car when filled. It was the same problem repaired in Nov, repaired again in PS.
Third time to dealer for fuel leak when filling car. Fuel delivery module recall was done 1st time, did not solve problem, parts ordered and installed. Worked for a while then leaked again. Parts ordered and replaced, now parts ordered.
Car has leaked when filling gas tank since new. Third attempt to repair now seems successful. They removed fuel tank and said some line was not connected which caused the leak. Since repair I have had no problem with fuel leaks.
Engine quit while traveling on freeway, total system failure in all sensors, emergency brakes engaged. Not resolved until October.
Stalls; shortly after warm start like it runs out of gas. Fix:Service ticket says; detected fault code P008B low fuel line pressure, traced fault to the fuel pressure sensor. Replaced return fuel line, sensor only available with fuel line....
Coolant sensor replaced
The bottom of the piston was cracked and thus needed to have the entire short block replaced on the engine.
Engine coolant level went down to min mark. they tested for leaks but didnt find anyhing. They topped it and and it is on min mark again. I honestly dont know what is wrong with it.
a purge valve on the purg assembly dg9z-9d289-g
Engine would not warm up after running for a lengthy period of time, heater would not blow warm air. Dealer inspected and said this was normal, nothing was done. They are wrong.
Car was running rough, white exhaust from tailpipe. Dealer replaced spark plugs.
Dealer had to replace catalytic converter as engine light kept coming on, replaced under warranty.
Check engine lights began to appear, car felt as if running on 3 cylinders, nearly stalling. Dealer consulted Ford and applied various TSBs and fixes. Car declared fixed and returned, though the car failed outright a few weeks later. Gasoline engine failed completely. Dealer worked with Ford and eventually discovered that the cylinder head has been improperly manufactured. The engine was disassembled and reassembled a number of times and the head and internals replaced.
The car has a constant vibration and hard shifts with high RPM going more then 20 miles an hour, A rattle appears as I accelerate. Ford mailed a letter identifying the Vin to possible throttle body contamination. Recall in Oasis
Recall for carb. I had a few instances where when I accelerated it bogged down that I was unsure of the cause... when the recall came in it seemed to fit.
Throttle body was replaced under expanded warranty. The Fusion was exhibiting severe drivability issues.
Engine smokes & rattles for 5 sec. They said noting was wrong. I sent them a video of engine noise no luck yet.
Emissions-service engine light came on. Followed instructions for driving 3 cycles then cold starting to see if light goes out. it didn't. Mechanic said the Emission filter cartridge had to be replaced.
vehicle entered 'limp home mode'-most likely caused by throttle body failure, a known defect, with Ford extended warranty for part. it was cheaper for me to replace part myself, rather than pay ford to diagnose the problem
Driving down the highway the car went into Limp Mode. Turns out the Throttle Body had to be replaced.
Check Engine Light. Required to replace fuel filler tube and reprogram PCM. Known issue via Published TSB.
Problem with car going into limp mode. Concerned it was linked to previous transmission issue. Replaced throttle body and sensor.
Replace valve cover gasket.
Car went into fail safe mode on highway. Bought new throttle body on amazon and replaced it myself.
Replace valve cover gaskets and grommets due to them leaking oil.
Engine was still leaking oil after replacing valve cover gasket. Oil leak found by front cover, crankshaft seal and valve cover gaskets/grommets were replaced.
Car was making harsh almost grinding noise when accelerating in low gear. Notice upper engine mount was leaking. Replaced it myself after watching Youtube video (wasn't too hard, but need jack and breaker bar). Car runs great now.
An emissions purge valve had to be replaced. I was able to do the work myself.
Engine would hesitate and feel like it was going to stall out. tach would drop
Throttle body control unit went bad on HWY and although I still had powertrain warranty it is not covered.
Car was stalling out from rolling starts or coasting such as crossing railroad tracks!!! Dealer diagnosed as throttle body, and I fixed it myself in 5 minutes due to out of warranty. New seems to have helped transmission slipping/bucking.
Car had issue starting after sitting around without being used. Would barely turn over then sputter to life and knock real loud.
Check Engine Light and Code revealed problem with Variable Cam Timing (VCT). Dealer replaced solenoids in VCT under warranty.
Automatic transmissiion slippage, early shifting. hesitant shifting, erratic shifting
Throttle body replaced.
Sudden loss of throttle control and power, engine and trabsmission went into failsafe/limp mode. Service engine light on, code indicated throttle body unit failure. TB was replaced. Acceleration from rest and shifting now much smoother
O2 sensor failure code, replaced part 3 times so far and every component in this subsystem. Still coding and check engine light remains on.
Air trapped in the cooling system causes a fluid swishing sound as car is accelerated when cold or engine idling for 1 minute or more. Occurs less frequently when at operating temperature. Still exhibiting the sound of coolant flowing through the heater core. Ford is providing the dealer with another procedure to attempt a fix. Car will be at dealer during the week of February 8, 2010.
Dealer contacted Ford on air trapped in cooling system. Dealer ran tests as requested by Ford. Ford sent field engineers to evaluate car and recommended complete engine replacement. Since repair, coolant sound is no longer present. TSB 09-19-1 to correct intermittent/no start done. No problem starting since completed
After a dead battery, the wrench light would come on and the engine would not go above 900 RPM. Tried the relearning process for the throttle body but it didn't work. Replace throttle body and did the relearn process. It fixed the issue.
car bucking during acceleration after manual shift completed. No codes or check engine light. shop cleaned throttle body sensor. This did not help, rechecked, decided to replace sensor. Waiting for part, unavailable for 4 weeks.
Follow up to June report: after 4 weeks, throttle control unit became available. Part=$200, labor=$100. repair complete
Fuel fill inlet warning/check engine light ton. Mechanic checked systems found no problem. reset warnings. Warning on and then gone 2 more times. car shows no symptoms
serpentine belt tensioner
Changing the vapor valve
Bearings in the idler and other pulleys worn out.
CEL code for evap sensor triggered. Sensor itself was defective and replaced.
check engine light on,evap code
Noticed a rattle from engine bay during startup and at clutch engagement point in 1st and reverse. Tech road tested and found airbox had become unseated from pressure fit mount. Tech reseated airbox. Hopefully it does not return.
Intermittent no start. Engine turns over but will not start. Dealer pull codes and none were found. Dealer could not replicate the problem.
No start, issue unresolved.
Whining noise coming from engine. Whining noise increased and decreased with engine RPM. Belt Tensioner Pulley replaced.
Began with oxygen sensor, ended up with computer replacement.
One Touch Ignition would not start car, needed new ground wire per TSB
Faulty Water Pump. Covered under warranty
fuel vapor vent valve
Faulty purge valve caused "Check Engine" light to go on. Brought to dealer for diagnosis and repair. Exhaust system had a faulty sensor.
engine light on. was told EVAC valve needed replace because some over spill gas go into EVAC canister. I was suspicious as I never double fill gas. Dealer didn't give me obd code. And they said valve replaced.
Engine and Transmission mounts were broken which caused grinding noise when accelerating. Parts replaced.
Engine check light. Vapor valve was found defective
engine noise, actually a tensioning pulley on the serpentine belt
belt tensioner replaced
fan belt replacement and damaged to part of air conditioning system. Disappointed dealer didn't recognize noise from worn out fan belt at previous oil change
Car was throwing P0456 code. Internet search revealed common problems with the purge control vent valve. I tested my vent valve. It was faulty. Test took 10 minutes. Repair took 10 minutes once part had arrived.
Water pump replaced due to mechanical failure
Check engine light & "check fuel fill inlet" warning began occurring.
the throttle body went bad
Serpentine belt was worn and needed replacing. Replaced by backyard mechanic using an AC Delco belt
Warning Light for emissions system - catalytic carbon filter
I got both OBD II codes P2011 and P2012, but not at the same time. It was either one or the other code showing. I did some research, and found out that I needed to replace the throttle body. Since the throttle body replacement no codes.
Check engine light came on. Shop smoke tested system and reported EGR valve was leaking. Replaced EGR valve.
I had a coolant leak. They replaced the adapter that bolts to the back of the engine. In this case back is the opposite side from the pulleys or the drivers side of the block when looking under the hood.
When engine first started (after being off for more than 60 min or so) there's a noise like a surge of water through an empty pipe. Dealer says Ford knows of the problem and is trying to find a solution. Told it's a problem reported by many Fusion owners.
We noticed jerky shift. Friend said they had a recall notice but we did not get one. When car went to dealer they adimtted there was a recall. Transmission re-programed they said. Seems OK so far but haven't driven much since repair.
Car was whining when accelerating. Alternator pulley.
Sept 20 34590km
Temperature guage up on "H" and then goes back down to normal when I stopped the car. Check coolant, it was very low. No check engine light luminated. Problem: hole in radiator. It takes 4 day to ship rad and fix it.
Pulleys for drive belts were humming. Upper and lower tensioner pulleys replaced.
Check engine light on and 'Check Fuel Fill Inlet' reading on gauge warning. EVAP leak code found and smoke test required to find leak.
Recall for problem with throttle body.
Tension pulleys making noise. Needed to be replaced.
Engine makes rattling/whirring noise at 35 & 45 mph. Took two drives for servicemen to hear it. Because computer did not detect problem, nothing broke, no repair made. It is a standard noise heard on their rental cars - no problem. WHAT?!
I took it AGAIN for whining engine at 35&45 mph & getting louder. Took 2 drives for them to hear. First they said "Normal noise" but I said it was NOT normal. They worked w/ Engineers and replaced pulley/tensioner. ALL GONE! Under warranty After only 9 days back from the shop, my car emergency engine lite went on & engine vibrated, even in Park. After tow to shop, svce says it was a bad throttle body, like many Ford Fusions. Was replaced with brand new one under warranty.
replace smooth idler pulley and belt tensioner because
Engine quit on busy road. Was able to restart.Fault was throttle control system failure.
worn upper right side motor mount causing a noise on pulling out. Note: deka (penn) battery installed at 40k holding up. Note: use care when parking that your front bumper does not get ripped off by rebar on the parking blocks.
Upper motor mount replaced.
idler arm pulley had to be replaced
EVAP solenoid was bad
Car in shop since 5 April. Delay in software and hardware parts for transmission. Hope to have car back NLT 10 May. Asking Ford for new car under lemon law.
Harsh 2-3 upshift when cold. Had Recall 10B15 performed, was told there was a "glitch" with that software and dealer flashed PCM according to TSB 10-21-9.
Intermittent 2-3 shift flare returned. Went on test drive with mechanic and reflashed PCM with latest software. So far, so good.
Gas gauge started dropping suddenly. There was an issue in the evap system which was fixed.
Software upgrade performed during regular oil change. Less than a week out of shop during acceleration the tachometer soared but the vehicle would not/could not engage in gear. Dealer said software update should have solved it. Didn't.
reflash ECU to fix very hard shifting -- Ford 'customer service bulletin' (aka recall-light). Seems to shift much smoother now, and doesn't throw the car forward like it used to. From passenger side of car, on cold engine moving between 1st and 2nd gears, sounds like water rushing through empty pipes; seems to go away with warmer engine. Dealer did not repair, and told me to reschedule another appt. to try again...
Muffler was rubbing on the frame. Noise resonating inside the car. Dealer repaired muffler hanger.
TSB performed to correct transmission "flaring" when cold.
TSB performed to correct occasional hard starting that seemed to occur only when raining or very humid. Added grounding wire.
Serpentine belt idler wheel bearing going bad (noisy). Quickly replaced by the dealer.
Had to replace throttle body due to failure of part's electronics to properly open and close throttle valve, resulting in a wrench light.
Warranty repair because car had gone into "fail-safe" mode. Was an internal control valve related to the emissions controls.
Car suddenly lost all power on the freeway. Wife was able to limp at very slow speed on battery power a few miles to the dealer. Problem turned out to be a throttle body that had failed. Dealer replaced it under warranty.
O2 sensor malfunction
bad purge valve
No heat in cabin once engine reached operating temperature, ford fix for this problem, cooling system pressure tested, degas cap replaced, removal of air from cooling system fixed problem as degas cap was leaking.
Engine light came on code for o2 sensor tab for reprogam fixed issue
Sensor in throttle body failed. Repaired under extended warranty.
Check Engine light on. Solution was to reprogram the computer. Seems weird to me too.
O2 sensor, causing Check Engine light to go on and off. Replaced it.
Throttle body needed to be replaced. My specific build date was not covered by recall.
Error P0130 02S11. Sensor faulty & replaced
Brake warning light illuminated while commuting to work. pedal became mushy and there was perceived reduction in brake performance. Research indicates its a rare software glitch with the software controlling the hybrid regenerative brakes.
check engine light would turn on during long highway trips (~200 mi driving at highway speeds). This never occurred during my normal 30 mile commute or short trips. Decided to pay $150 to have the computer reflashed with the latest software.
The check engine light came on with a code for the secondary air injection (emissions related). Also, the vehicle would stall on rare occasion when put into gear. The diverter valve was replace and solved the problem.
Speedometer broke. Speedo partially inoperative, operates at random/erratic times, transmission has erratic shift pattern. EEC Test, code P0720, tested and replaced OSS (Odometer Speed Sensor). Part cost = 101.82, Labor cost = 311.81
Had PCM flashed to resolve the transmission's jerky shifting. Driver's side seat had cracks and was replaced.
I noticed the check engine light so I took my car to a dealership. They found out it was a bad catalytic converter and it was replaced under the factory warranty.
Oil pan gasket.
They adjusted or replaced some sensors
Leak from oil pan or transmission.
Noise corresponding to road speed. Some sort of shaft bearing was bad. Also replace alternator, thought that was problem.
Check engine reveled an air intake item needed reoplacement
replace crankcase seal & coolant pump.
Noticed an oil burning smell inside the car when not in motion, the engine warmed up & running. No visible smoke. Dealer replaced valve cover gasket & cleaned the engine.
Replace leaky valve cover gasket.
intake manifold gasket
CEL had code read at AutoZone P2004 IMRC stuck open.
Left car with dealer for a day.They acknowledged the problem but were unable to service the car that day.2 days later the CEL reset.Will wait to see if it happens again.
Replaced valve cover seals to stop minor oil leak.
Oil pan needed replacing (wore out after 193K miles)
Secondary air pump had to be replaced Secondary air injection pump diverter valve needed to be replaced.
Idler pulley bolt failure
Second idler pulley bolt failure
Cooling System--Replaced thermostat
Heater was always producing cool air. Onboard computer reported P138 coolant under temperature code (i.e. check engine light came on and that was the code it reported). Replaced thermostat.
Received code 491 about secondary air pump failing. Checked hoses for leaks but were fine. Replaced 50A relay to the secondary air pump and problem solved.
Replaced downstream oxygen sensor after receiving code P420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshhold
Code P0491 and P0410 secondary air injection system. Not enough air was flowing from secondary air pump; pump is working but air filter was really dirty. Replaced it and hoping for the best.
Fuel Cap Sensor light stuck on. Dealer replaced Cannister Vent Solenoid Assembly at no charge under bumper to bumper warranty.
Serpentine belt and belt drive pulley were squeaking. Both items were replaced. Heat shield was making a rattling noise from under the car while traveling at highway speeds. There is a TSB from Ford on this issue. Heat shield was re-secured.
Thermostat had been stuck open for a few months. Also serpentine belt squeaking. Replaced thermostat, belt, and tensioner pulley.
Engine started knocking a couple months ago. Finally threw a rod. Replaced entire engine.
Blew second engine. Vehicle sitting until summer to replace it again.
Clicking or squeal noise when start up. Noise gone after 15~30min. Detected problem 4 months ago. Dealer replaced a belt. Noise persisted. This week, dealer identified the tensioner was the problem. Replaced tensioner. Noise is gone.
Received P0128 Code for Coolant Temperature Low. Took to shop and replaced Thermostat. Very common issue on 2.3L I4 Ford Fusions for this model year.
Replaced thermostat under Ford ESP warranty.
Check engine light staying on. Analyst said the engine temp dropped after driving. Thermostat replacement seems to have cleared the error.
accessory drive broken - replaced
Replaced #3 coil pack.
Check engine came on, later took car to dealer, they discovered that thermostat is bad. Replaced at N/C under extended warranty.
Engine would not reach proper operating temp. Replaced thermostat.
Car accelerated when foot off gas pedal. Able to stop, noticed two yellow wrenches, turned off car and appeared to reset. Garage could not replicate, had car for almost one week, put monitor in car for 2 weeks with no further probems, yet!
At 17,500 miles the check engine and wrench light came on. Dealer replaced throttle body, accelerator pedal sensor, and needed additional help from Ford Techline to return the car to normal operation.
PCM failed. Needed to be replaced along with throttle body and throttle pedal sensor.
Timing belt had to be replaced at 80,000 miles. Engine lost basically all power and all engine oil burned up and almost lost the engine. The oil had just been changed 200 miles before this. Totally cost a little over $1300. Car is a POS
Reflash PCM High idle speed at start up. No cost under warranty.
The Fusion had a computer reflash in early August. I didn't have any problems, but I read on forums that it improves shifting so I had it done. I didn't mind the shifting before, but it does seem to be smoother now.
A faulty transmission control module caused intermittent stalling and various drivability problems.
"Ticking" noise heard from engine within first 15 min. of driving or until engine reaches normal operating temp.
I perceive the noise as being related to the lifters or perhaps some reciprocating part in the top end. The engine sounds as though it is slowly coming apart. Everyone who should take responsibility assures me that this is normal but it isn't.
ticking sound from engine after warmup was bothersome. The dealer
did not find anything unusual.
Computer reflash for transmission shifting issues.
Replaced throttle body.
Front engine seal was replaced, along with serpentine drive belt
Overheated ignition coils, required computer replacement as per TSB.
Key stuck in ignition. This dealer would not look at car. It was Friday, 3:30 pm. Their fix was to program a key so door would lock. Gave wife a deal. Instead of usual $65, charged only $50. Key stuck in ignition. Tech dismantled lock cylinder, made small adjustments and lubricated. Transmission shifter needed adjustments in various areas. Dealer re-programmed door key provided by previous dealer to be an ignition key.
Replace rear engine mount
One of the injectors misfired in the rear set and had to be replaced.
Replace top pulley and main serpentine belt
air sensor to the carb was not functioning and effected starting the car
It was the thermostat. It failed to work.
Tensioner locked up destroying belt
Had to refresh the pcm due to hard start issue.
Ignition coils replaced.
TSB for throttle response and transmission shifting issues.
Though mostly functioning properly, the thermostat failed to bring coolant to correct temp level, causing check engine light to come on. Thermostat replaced, check engine light off.
Accessory belt and belt tensioner replaced after tensioner began squealing regularly
Thermostat stuck open. After diagnostic, problem confirmed. Thermostat and housing replaced.
cooling, thermostant out
oil filter cover broke , replaced my self
Severe throttle lag, stumbling idle when cold, repeated Check Engine Light on for temperature not getting warm enough. Reflashed PCM for throttle concern to latest update. Concerns appear to be gone for the past few weeks.
Thermostat. Vehicle has had on and off problems with running too cold. P0128.
At 48,000 miles, the engine develops a metal-on-metal "knock". One of the valves broke off the rod, severely damaging engine. Had to replace whole engine. Traded car in right after getting it back.
Bad plug coils
Replaced an engine sensor (and spark plug) due to a check engine light.
Fuel was leaking into Three of four spark plug holes. The valve head was replaced and spark plugs replaced. The spark plugs were due for replacement. Oil was not supposed to be there in the spark plug holes (Where the spark plugs reside).
Check engine light indicated electronic thermostat was faulty. Replaced thermostat. Also changed front disc brake pads.
valve cover gasket replaced
Check engine light came on, problem was thermostat stuck open
Leaking valve cover gasket replaced.
Thermostat change, oil change, tire rotation
check engine light on, an emissions valve was bad, expensive small part at $300
Spring loaded idler pulley needed to be replaced. Replaced belt while at it.
Check engine light= thermostat failure. Also completed oil change/tire rotation and recently a trans fluid change (unsure why it was so dirty so early).
Ignition coil on #2 cylinder failed. Start the car, it runs briefly ok then starts to spit/cough/sputter, then sort of catches itself and the check engine light comes on. Ignition coil failure #4 cylinder; second IC failure in less than a month; very displeased!!
I experienced some rod knock, so a had a shop replace the engine with a rebuilt unit from S & J out of Spokane, WA. This engine comes with a non-prorated, 7yr/100k mile warranty!
Replaced canister vent valve assembly.
Air pump valve replaced
Key would not come out of ignition. Replaced cylinder and lock
belt idle pulley became noisy. Replaced pulley and belt
Transmission "reflashed" due to "late shift" from 1st to 2nd gear upon startup when vehicle sat for more than 5 hours.