2010 Toyota Camry Toyota Camry 2010

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2010 Toyota Camry repairs by problem area

Engine (15%)

Transmission and Drivetrain (6%)

Brakes and Traction Control (3%)

Suspension and Steering (18%)

Electrical and Air Conditioning (18%)

Paint, Rust, Leaks, Rattles, and Trim (26%)

Other (11%)

Chart based on 87 repairs.
See TSBs and recalls for the 2010 Toyota Camry.

2010 Toyota Camry engine repair cost distribution

$2500+ (0%)

$1000 - $2499 (0%)

$500 - $999 (8%)

$100 - $499 (46%)

< $100 (46%)

Worried about potential repair costs? An extended warranty can provide peace of mind.

Chart based on 13 repair trips. The repair cost chart excludes repairs made under warranty, do-it-yourself repairs, and repair trips that include maintenance.

2010 Toyota Camry 4dr Sedan

268-horsepower 3.5L V6 6-speed shiftable automatic FWD

191000 mi

US $400
Exhaust replaced from flex pipe to muffler 
158000 mi

US $140
Synthetic Oil Change & Tire Rotation. 
20000 mi Upon cold startup engine intermittently will emit lifter type tapping sound. Sound softens and discontinues after driving in a few minutes. Toyota dealer can find no problem. Says I may return it when it reoccurs. In the twilight zone.  

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2010 Toyota Camry 4dr Sedan

179-horsepower 2.5L I4 6-speed shiftable automatic FWD

184140 mi

C $350
replaced the water pump 
141000 mi

US $30
After the firestorm in Napa, the car needs a new air filter and cabin filter. Also brakes need replacement. Oil and filter changed and tires rotated. 
165000 mi

US $850
Check Engine Light came on and code was P0430 (Catalytic Convertor efficiency low/ low value seen at sensor), so had dealer do Catalytic convertor pressure test to see if Catalytic convertor is plugged up and it did not meet the flow requirements using the special Toyota test equipment, which these results seems logical and expected given the car was used for years on short trips on and off engine running due to carpooling kids to school-meaning open loop fuel dumping and rich condition on start up more likely to foul precious metals in catalytic convertor. I tested the heated upstream sensor and was found below spec, and also found downstream sensor to be lazy, which these DENSO sensors are known to have a life of 100K miles. Dealer wanted $750 for labor and Tech confirmed this was a very difficult job to replace the cat due to the transfer case, rack and pinion are both in the way and the exhaust manifold can only be reached from the bottom of the car because the top of the rear bank is coverd by the intake manifold. The Dealer estimated 5 hours total to remove and replace the catalytic convertor which is a one piece part that is welded to the exhaust manifold, and requires disassembly of the "Y" pipe after the cat and the rear exhaust pipe. It was a very difficult removal and even more difficult installation given the small openings and limited access to mounting bolts and off angle of exhaust manifold bolts requiring 2 universal joints, 6 pt sockets in different lengths for several bolts and special magnetized lights to see in the crevice of the rear of the V6 engine. My hands are certainly larger than Japanese hands and with mechanic leather gloves still got cut up by the exhaust shield that is not removable on the firewall. It took more than 6 hours of actual work because I took time to clean all the rusted threads of the exhaust mounting points, and getting a torque wrench on them to torque it all to factory specification was difficult, as well as Toyota gave me the wrong lead donut and I had to reform the old one and thankfully it sealed completely with no exhaust leaks that would fail smog test. This work could not be done without a hydraulic car lift, as I used because of the length of extensions required and angle to access the heat shield for the exhaust manifold and to reach the top upstream sensor connector on top of the engine to disconnect and replace that sensor, the downstream sensor was easy to replace. DENSO sensors, Toyota bolts and studs, manifold gaskets were used, with sensors costing $ 180 and $240. Not only did the CEL go off, the car is smoother and noticeably more powerful in acceleration and is getting better gas mileage, almost feels like a new car wi.th both front and rear bank cats replaced and all 4 oxygen/air fuel sensors replaced. As a former pro mechanic, this rear bank CAT is best done by a dealer and not a easy DIY job. Note: Catalytic Convertor thefts are on the rise due to the $ value of the precious metals inside the cat, so looking to install metal shield on my cars after several friends Prius's have had their cats stolen in front of their house at night by unscrupulous thieves, precious metals are worth $600-1000 in CA, and supply and demand of smog able cats is increasing prices of new cats, so don't wait or install a sensor fooler if you are getting a cat fault code. 

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2010 Toyota Camry 4dr Sedan

169-horsepower 2.5L I4 6-speed shiftable automatic FWD

203000 mi

US $65
the car showed two warning lights, check engine light and anti-skid failure, 02 sensor replacement fixed these 
29000 mi

US $414
Oxygen Sensor Assembly Failed Replaced Oxygen Sensor Assembly 
80000 mi

US $370
Water pump reported bad 
177000 mi

US $30
One belt (inner) replaced 

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2010 Toyota Camry 4dr Sedan

169-horsepower 2.5L I4 6-speed manual FWD

43000 mi

US $200
VSC and Traction Control light came on with obd2 code P0138 , P0607. the dealer said the oxygen sensor was bad. replaced and engine light are off now 
53300 mi

US $250
OBD2 code P0037 , Bank 1 sensor 2 , replaced oxygen sensor 
44000 mi Air intake resonator fell off, causing the engine to run very rough and stall, found the resonator lying behind the engine. I pushed it back into the air intake hose and problem was solved. Just a little concerned that could happen again. 

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See TrueDelta's information for all Toyota models.

2010 Toyota Camry Engine Problems

See our lemon odds and nada odds page to see vehicles with no repairs or vehicles with more than three repairs. To see how frequently 2010 Toyota Camry problems occur, check out our car reliability stats.