Chart based on 31 repair trips. The repair cost chart excludes repairs made under warranty, do-it-yourself repairs, and repair trips that include maintenance.
2011 Hyundai Elantra Touring 4dr Wagon
138-horsepower 2.0L I4 5-speed manual FWD
Sway bar link...right ball joint..
A rattling sound fixed by replacement of parts.
Left rear assist arm replaced.
Shocks replaced, front and rear. I noticed nothing wrong. But the mechanic to whom I took the car advised within thirty minutes of dropping it off that they (the front only) were shot and needed to be replaced.
Left and right front stabilizer bar ushings replaced.
Rear stabilizer bar bushings. Update: I need to go back again because they didn't fix the rear properly, as I still get a clunk from the rear right when I go over a bump sometimes.
Front Link Assembly replaced at 46,512km. The same part was previously replaced around 20,000km under warranty.
A wheel bearing was fixed under warranty. Brakes serviced.
Noise in front end when changing direction
noise in rear of car every time you hit a bump. repaired bushing on arm
arms and bushings
Anti-sway bar rattled - tightened by dealer.
Replaced both front sway bar links. Replaced front passenger front lower ball joint. $460.
Thumping in rear end, was discovered to be right rear sway linkage. Manufacture defect, part to be ordered, mechanic took it off car. Now has no rear sway linkage said to be safe to drive without Update: was called by dealer told part not available for month. Decided to email corporate office and tell them that was unsatisfactory in our eyes. Next day dealership phones and say they have part go figure.
As mentioned in another repair, told dealer about a noise when turning recommended brake service. Did it same noise took it back needed new strut under warranty. Still paid 200 for a brake service not needed.
Noticed a noise coming from the undercarriage whenever the car was in motion. Dealer inspected and found one of the links in the sway bar was "loose". Repair covered under extended warranty.
Noise from underneath the car at low speeds, sounding like a loose part. Diagnosed as sway bar link bushing worn out. It was replaced. Noise may have decreased but not eliminated.
Electronic Power Steering (EPS) light came on when I started the car in the morning. Had to drive to work with no power steering. For the afternoon drive back home, everything seemed fine. Brought car to dealer for service. Work was covere
Steering rack replaced under warranty. EPS light came on in summer of 2013 and car lost power steering for a day. Ok next day but garage did software update. Happened again in December and dealer said steering rack to be replaced.
Replaced power steering rack after recall.
Had a front fender replaced due to a small collision. Noticed that the steering wheel was skewed several degrees after picking up car. Straightening and alignment performed by the dealer. Inner-shoulder front tire wear as a result.
Rear suspension knuckle (broken sleeve),
Changed the shock absorber and stabilizer bar
Link broken on both front wheel.
Changed front right and front left top plate.
Changed front left and front right link kit.
2 front top plate Shock absorber broken Shock absorber boots protector were loose
Dealer checked alingment, Said everything was ok didn't touch it.
Dealer performed the electrical steering calibration again. (step required after alignment) and change steering settings (set it to soft turn). car was still pulling right.
I did some alignment check on my own then I have the dealer bring the regional engineer. Explain the problem and took pictures, put old rear tires in the front and re-aling. No more pulling.
3rd party alingment found toe Ok but camber slightly different, loose everything and retightened, perfect 0.85º. Rear side, right wheel almost 2º. Loosen and readjusted but not completely OK. No way to adjust, aftermarket bar needed.
Electric Power Steering. Safety recall for EPS failures. Power steering unit replaced multiple times but kept failing. Car kept at dealer. Loaner car provided. Manufacturer eventually reprogrammed software for new unit and flashed update.
Front end noise. Can't remember the name of the part but they didn't have to cover it and did anyway because I reported noise before 60,000
Warranty Recall for momemtary low of power steering.
Steering was tested on dealers computer and a computer reflash was done to the vehicles steering computer module.
During transmission repair, tech noticed EPS/ESC light on. Determined steering column was faulty. Replaced column.
Power steering failed.
Rear left wheel bearing driver outer tie-rod
Steering Flex Coupler Bushing worn - replaced.
Damaged bushing in steering column repaired under warranty
electronic power steering control unit went out. Intermittantly had issues with ESP and ESC lights coming on during driving
power steering light came on and power steering failed; dealer repaired under warranty.
I never received a recall notice. I ended up doing it on my own because I knew the vehicle wasn't riding right when it went over bumps so I brought it in and informed them of the recall.
Recall parts installed to front struts. Informed that squeak in hatch was not from hatch piston. Have to schedule a new appointment for car to go to bodyshop to diagnostic where squeak is coming from.
Car pulls to the right Same problem of pulling to the right
Car was pulling to the right. As the 4th trip to dealer, service manager was involved. The right rear wheel needed realignment. Problem is fixed.
Same problem with car pulling to the right from date of purchase. It was repired in August 2010 after 4 trips to the dealer. Installed winter tires and problem returned.
The car still pulls to the right, even with the balancing and alignment just completed; in fact when we first drove the car off the lot we had the problem and after 4 trips to the service desk when balancing, alignments and rotating the tires did not work
Power steering went out. First dealer only reflashed software. Failed again the next day. Second dealer replaced the steering column and bolt - safety lock.
Allament of car ! not fixed this week!!
Front drivers side suspension spring creaks when body moves Creak in the drivers side front end. Lubed the whole front end, replaced the drivers side strut twice, problem was resolved at this time by replacing the drivers side spring.
Power steering failed. Fixed by update to car computer software.
took car in for safety inspection - failed bad tie rods and worn breaks (est. repair cost $1100) breaks passed after i requested to see ware. 1 week delay for parts 2hr repair. excessive noise right front - noise was present at time of safety inspection, dealer said could not hear noise. (i am a refrigeration Mech.) I know noise so i took the car to an independent garage.
The steering column with steering angle sensor the dealer previously ordered arrived. They installed the parts.
replace loose stabalizer bars
replaced noisy/loose steering linkage under warranty
failing steering linkage
Leaking driver's side front strut, replaced under extended warranty
Sway bar end-links making noise.
Electronic power steering failed.
The car had a clunking sound coming from the steering column when turning the wheel either standing still or moving.Turned out to be a steering coupler that I believe there is a TSB for.