30 TrueDelta members own (or used to own) a 2000 or newer Volvo S70. 47 of these members
(156.7%) have reported engine repairs for their car.
A total of 95 engine repairs to Volvo S70s--an average of 3.2 per
vehicle--have been reported.
S70 ran off the road and would not start. Unplugged the MAF sensor to safely start and drive home in limp mode. The next day discovered the intercooler had a crack...replaced intercooler myself and problem solved. Also went and had an alignment done.
Tensioner pulley lost its cap in the path of the timing belt (after timing belt replacement only 40K miles ago with Tensioner pulley) and caused the timing to skip, rendering all intake valves to get bent- I had to have my engine completely rebuilt.
Heater core leaked into driver's side foot well- all foam soaked through, had to cut out the foam, dry it and reglue it as well as replace the heater core which I ordered from an online vendor. All is well now.
Radiator over-flow tank cap cracked. Replaced with one from Autozone but it leaked...terrible. Bought genuine Volvo one locally for $20 because I was in a hurry to go on a trip- this solved the problem.
Replaced leaking radiator
Missing in Cylinder 4...a few times. I had changed wires last year. This time I changed cap.rotor...seems problem has cleared up- rotor appeared quite worn. I had a short (ground was getting power) on my ignition- fuel injection circuit 1 (1st cylinder). Had to cut the wire and use a new one from the circuit to the ground on the computer.
Then, my idle air control shorted internally.
TEmp gauge went in the red but would then come back down- got a P0118 error- ECT... Replaced it and thermostat- easy repair! It was hard to know though if it was really the ECT or the thermostat as the upper radiator hose would not get hot.
Once again the temp sensor was going bonkers- I just had this problem in November. Changed out the Engine Coolant Sensor to a Volvo one and replaced the thermostat again to a Mahle. The older Autozone one was broken, stuck in only a month
Turbo oil rerun line blew out causing most of my oil to be lost and stranding me until a ride to go buy oil, some ramps and temporary repair until I got home and replaced the o-ring
SAS (secondary air pump) was squealing and making a racket- a common problem as condensation causes rust and it will eventually quit running. When it stops running it will cause a check engine light. Add a diode - an easy fix from You Tube!
Also from new car inspection, 3 engine mounts replaced.
-Flashing climate system lights (recirculate & off buttons) & white film on lower windshield.
-Flashing coolant light.
(Major) Parts Replaced List:
-A/C air intake sensor.
-Radiator, Heater Core, Thermostat & ECT sensor.
Went in for regular oil change and was told car was due for timing belt. While mechanic was replacing timing belt, he discovered water pump was leaking. Replaced both at same time (cost-saving labor-wise for owner to replace at same time).
Symptoms: Reduced engine power & engine cutting out/stalling. Towed in to local indy shop; vehicle would not start at shop. Problem traced to fuel pump relay. Replaced fuel pump relay.