2010 Honda Odyssey Honda Odyssey 2010

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2010 Honda Odyssey repairs by problem area

Engine (23%)

Transmission and Drivetrain (3%)

Brakes and Traction Control (3%)

Suspension and Steering (20%)

Electrical and Air Conditioning (34%)

Paint, Rust, Leaks, Rattles, and Trim (10%)

Other (8%)

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Chart based on 190 repairs.
See TSBs and recalls for the 2010 Honda Odyssey.

2010 Honda Odyssey electrical repair cost distribution

$2500+ (0%)

$1000 - $2499 (2%)

$500 - $999 (23%)

$100 - $499 (29%)

< $100 (46%)

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Chart based on 56 repair trips. The repair cost chart excludes repairs made under warranty, do-it-yourself repairs, and repair trips that include maintenance.

2010 Honda Odyssey

Engine not specified

29300 mi Nav DVD player replaced. 

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2010 Honda Odyssey 4dr Minivan, ext.

244-horsepower 3.5L V6 w/DoD 5-speed automatic FWD

86000 mi

US $650
Sliding door issue again. Motor needed replacing. Other door had problem 6 months earlier. We have no kids and the doors do not get abused. 
110000 mi The regularly dealer-repaired side doors also seem to cause a beeping which must be manually turned off every time the car is operated. The regularly dealer-repaired side doors also seem to cause a beeping which must be manually turned off every time the car is operated. 
110000 mi

US $700
Side door did not work. Again. Repaired, then failed again about three months later. My wife continues to live with the problem. The current problem is that it takes several tries to get the door to decide to automatically shut. We wish we could just disconnect the motor entirely and slide it open and shut like we all did 20 years ago. 
118000 mi

US $700
Compressor hoses had rotted, so it would not accept a recharge. 
78700 mi

US $800
Tire Pressure Monitoring Sensors failed, 5 replaced. 
129000 mi

US $150
GPS system randomly goes offline. DVD player for GPS system was dirty and needed to be cleaned. DVD was scratched, polished and reinserted. 
137530 mi

US $689
Car kept dying at inopportune times. Battery replaced. Cables cleaned and lubed. Alternator replaced. 3rd Brake light assembly failed. Right Brake light was improperly repaired by a different shop - bulb replaced again with a working LED 
139000 mi

US $280
Battery failed load test. Dealer recommended replacement 
52000 mi

US $500
nav & audio controls unreliable 
52000 mi

US $250
sliding door stopped working 
124500 mi

US $870
Alternator went out. Battery had to be replaced again. 
146000 mi

US $50
The driver rear sliding door has stopped working 
187000 mi

US $200
Starter was hanging. Removed and replaced. 
125800 mi

US $30
My car shut down completely while driving. Thank God it wasn't on the freeway.Towed it to the repair shop and found out it was the alternator that went out. Had the alternator and battery replaced. Battery was completely drained when alternator went out. My whole back light system went out. All bulbs needed to be replaced. The top brake light on the van was melted. Replaced the lens and socket. 
85000 mi

US $50
Dead battery, jumped ok. Checked battery and charging system, replaced alternator 
120000 mi

US $110
Alternator replaced again after less than 2 years old. Cheap remanufactured alternators don't last long 
161000 mi

US $600
Light on dash shows tailgate open, we thought it was related to alarm going off. Sliding door still not closing fully. Dealer wanted to charge more, considering problem to be a "different problem". The tailgate pinch sensor has broken wires. Decided to live with tailgate problem indicator light until a new pinch sensor is found. This is not a part readily found, will get one from a salvage yard. Dealer wants to replace the fuse box, costing over $1500 Deemed not worthwhile as we spent already $600 with no improvement to original problem and no guarantee that this repair would fix it. Gave up on them fixing the alarm issue. Trying to get them to at least fix the sliding doors that do not work right after 1st repair. To keep the alarm from going off I ended up disconnecting the hood latch sensor so that the alarm will never arm itself. No parts replaced, cost too high Alarm going off randomly. Seems to coincide with rainy days Disabled the car alarm by disconnecting the hood open sensor. Been fine ever since. 
91000 mi

US $60
AC would work sporadically. Replaced AC relay. 
85000 mi

US $20
Replaced battery 
145000 mi

US $440
Sliding doors would not latch properly. This was draining the battery when the car was parked. 
212000 mi

US $200
AC was blowing warm. Recharged and its been fine since 
31000 mi I think the seat warmer on the driver's side is intermittently turning itself on. The dealer said they couldn't trace any evidence (has to be in the on state for them to find an issue). 
92000 mi

US $500
There was a leak in the air conditioner tubing causing the Freon to leak. 
152000 mi

US $400
Alternator needed to be replaced 
86000 mi TPS Sensor went bad on left front. (Second TPS sensor that has failed since purchase). Replaced free under extended warranty. 
97000 mi Two year battery went bad. 
37820 mi Check and replacement 
45080 mi Replacement of battery after electrical system check 
127720 mi

﷼900
[Recharged A/C] Plus leak check.  Also repair of center brake light and other maintenance. 
30000 mi Battery died 
6200 mi

US $22
Nav system reboots/restarts intermittently. Dealer wanted the car for a day so that they could duplicate the problem. Am travelling from TX to MI and back. 2 weeks vacation trip with family. Decided to take car back to TX dealer.  
74000 mi

US $871
Alternator failed while enroute to Houston, TX from home. Drove 200+ miles with "Check Charging System" warning light ON. (Light came on intermitently. Would go off and then come back ON). Car became underivable and all system failed 1-by-1 
58500 mi

US $290
TPMS sensor failure. Sensor replaced. 
49000 mi

US $90
Cold would not start in cold weather 
56000 mi

US $311
Rear window will NOT roll up from main control window switch.. 
76000 mi

US $520
Replaced defectve alternator.. 
29200 mi Wouldn't start; battery was drained by bad A/C compressor relay. Required tow after getting jump start and hearing loud screeching noise and seeing smoke from hood. 
34000 mi

US $80
TPMS Error code. Took 2 days to figure out how to reset it. No parts needed. Not covered under HondaCare warranty. 
41000 mi

US $125
Replaced OEM Battery at 40K miles/5 years. Acceptable. 
38200 mi

US $700
Alternator failed. Started failure in November, but dealer couldn't diagnose. Failed 100% in early January and was replaced. 

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2010 Honda Odyssey 4dr Minivan, ext.

244-horsepower 3.5L V6 5-speed automatic FWD

36000 mi

US $81
Electrical switch that controlled the rear brake lights needed replacement 
48000 mi

US $450
Alternator had to be replaced 
87000 mi

US $800
A/C compressor clutch would not disengage. Unit was replaced 
205800 mi Rear A/C only blowing from floor vents (not ceiling). After research, checked the rear blend door actuator switch and found it stuck in wrong position. Manually moved actuator switch and it became unstuck and operated normally when re-installed. 
85560 mi

C $1000
Starter required replacement 
17000 mi Right rear speaker replaced. 
139000 mi

US $148
new battery 
148000 mi

US $150
New starter. Starter was making noise when cold. 
168000 mi New starter - warranty unit from NAPA. 
12400 mi

C $100
Water was leaking into right rear light assembly. Had to change the whole thing. 
4000 mi Rear window washer never worked from day 1. Wasn't an issue until there was a melt in February and couldn't clean the rear window. Dealership said the line was pinched during assembly of the vehicle. They unkinked it and it works now. 
15000 mi

US $84
power locks activate by itself. Dealer could not replicate. 
23200 mi Power locks activate repeately on their own 
35000 mi Lock issue never fixed because could never replicate. 

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2010 Honda Odyssey Electrical Problems

See our lemon odds and nada odds page to see vehicles with no repairs or vehicles with more than three repairs. To see how frequently 2010 Honda Odyssey problems occur, check out our car reliability stats.