Chart based on 15 repair trips. The repair cost chart excludes repairs made under warranty, do-it-yourself repairs, and repair trips that include maintenance.
2011 Hyundai Elantra Touring 4dr Wagon
138-horsepower 2.0L I4 5-speed manual FWD
Ex manifold and pipe to catalytic converter as well as a O2 senor replaced due to rattle and vibration in ex system..
Rattle still present in ex system, dealer replaced factory resonator in ex system..
Noisy fuel pump replaced
Dealer claimed abrupt clutch failure was due to wear. I do not believe them; this is my 3rd standard car, and the 626 and Rav4 made it well into 200,000km before requiring clutch work. There were no signs of clutch wear. Defect? Beware!
Radiator cap leaking fluid
clutch totally worn out.
Internal exhaust rattle. Replaced exhaust pipe.
Ignition module was replaced due to fault on immobilizer
The noise of metal rubbing sound, diagnosis to be the drive belt, replace timing bell and drive bell together.
To much fuel consumption change some sensor and oxygen sensor and new spark plug ....no change ! still need over 8 liter/100 on high way, and over 10-12 in town with and egg on throttle pedal.
Piston flapping when start when the outside temperature is below zero celcius. Change the engine block.
Oil leaking (seemingly from the oil filter / engine mating surface). Garage gave me a load of nosense about oil change intervals (they claimed it should be only 3000 miles, at odds with the car's service manual).
Unusual acceleration noise, traced to loose baffle in center muffler
When I try to put gas into the car, the lever will just stop after 5 seconds. Tried a different pump same result. I have been using the same station for years without any issues. Bought to the dealership but they can not reproduce.