My ESP isn't as good as Sdonahue's, as somehow he knows your car's location, color, condition and options in order to make a value estimate on the car you're considering. In my area, the $11,500 that Sdonahue got on trade-in would be for a heavily-optioned vehicle in very good condition. The car you are looking at has more miles, so would have traded in for about $2,000 less. Keep in mind that dealer trade-in is like a wholesale value. Dealer asking price reflects their costs to make the car ready for sale and pay to run their business. That said, if you search local Auto Trader listings for 2013 Escapes, you'll get a pretty good idea of what they are going for in your area. Also, while there tends to be less negotiation with dealers on used cars than new, you should come in with a lower price. If their price is comparable to other dealers, try to get $500 off. If they are more than other dealers, come in lower and point that out. The Escape is a popular vehicle, so let them know there are plenty of cars to choose from. Unless you really have to get a vehicle right away, you're in control. (And if you do, don't let them know--as long as they think you can walk away, they'll try to make the deal work.)
While we're at it, don't buy any extended warranty--period. They are 40% mark-up. If you take that same money and save it for future repairs, you'll be way ahead. Don't finance through the dealer. Look for the lowest auto loan rates in your area if you're going to finance. This is usually a credit union. Get pre-approved. If you do, don't let the dealer do a "hard credit" pull. They will probably say they have to pull your credit to comply with anti-terrorism laws, which may or may not be accurate, but they can do that with a soft pull. Make it clear that you are not consenting to a hard credit pull. (This is better for your credit but outside the scope of discussion here.) Also, check with your state to see if the dealer documentation fee is capped by law. If so (yay), you won't be over-charged. If not, know that even though the dealer will tell you a story about how they have to charge everyone the same fee, that's not true. The fee is the F&I office's profit center. Know what that dealer's doc fee is going in and adjust your asking price accordingly. Everything is computerized these days, so even $150 is profit. But the finance guy doesn't want to take a cut on his piece of the pie, so if they have a high fee, you'll need to get that reduced by reducing the sales price of the car.
That said, while I don't know the fair market price of that particular car in your area, no matter what the price, I'd offer less, and reduce my offer even further if they have a high doc fee (and let them know you think their fees are over-priced). I'd come in with my own financing lined up and not accept anything they try to add-on to the car, like extended warranties, window etching, True Coat :) -- none of that crap.