150-horsepower 2.0L I4 6-speed manual FWD
102500 mi | 100k mile service. Did brakes, control arms, struts and shocks myself. Alignment at shop and they diagnosed and replaced passenger inner and outer tie rods. Alignment at shop and they diagnosed and replaced passenger inner and outer tie rods. |
150-horsepower 2.0L I4 6-speed manual 4WD
159610 mi US $2034 |
New struts & shocks |
148-horsepower 2.0L I4 6-speed shiftable CVT FWD
5580 mi | Loose bolt drivers side rear. |
150-horsepower 2.0L I4 6-speed manual 4WD
63300 mi US $225 |
Worn tie-rod discovered during routine yearly inspection. Was replaced on a subsequent visit. Worn item discovered during routine yearly inspection visit. Repaired on another visit. |
75500 mi US $185 |
A linking bar across the front end was replaced. |
85000 mi US $343 |
replaced struts, shock absorbers, sway bar |
148-horsepower 2.0L I4 6-speed shiftable CVT 4WD
109740 mi C $600 |
Tie rods were replaced and the repair also include a wheel alignment |
138260 mi C $1800 |
One front spring was broken so i decided to replaced them both including both shock assembly, the work was done at a friend garage. Wheel alignment was done and the passenger side ball joint and arm were replaced |
138260 mi C $700 |
Discovered a broken front spring, replaced both springs and struts shocks. |
143-horsepower 2.0L I4 5-speed manual FWD
50220 mi C $500 |
replace both rear shocks |
143-horsepower 2.0L I4 5-speed manual 4WD
52700 mi | Rear wheel bearing failed, wheel was squeaking & was repaired under warranty |
100600 mi C $250 |
grinding from rear hub assembly worn out |
104600 mi C $400 |
driver's side rear wheel bearing replaced |
113560 mi C $350 |
car made clikcing sound when going over bumps in road, outer left side tie rod replaced |
146 mi C $250 |
inner and outer tie rods needed replacing worn out |
28000 mi | Steering is making groaning/grinding sounds only during cold (winter cold) starts. Goes away as soon as things warm up. Dealer could not duplicate. I will monitor. Will also try changing fluid to top notch synthetic fluid. |
33000 mi | Power steering continues to make briefly make moaning sounds following a totally cold (sub freezing) start up. I did replace pwr strg fluid with synthetic as dealer suggested, it helped a lot but it still groans a bit. Had them check it. |
210000 mi US $400 |
Noise and vibration from wheel bearing. Replaced left front wheel bearing. |
44020 mi C $150 |
Replaced Right rear wheel bearing .... loose & noisy. Replaced brake pads |
63860 mi C $70 |
Left rear wheel bearing noise |
65100 mi C $70 |
Replaced Right Rear wheel/hub bearing assy |
88660 mi C $80 |
Noisy bearing on right rear wheel. Replaced wheel bearing assy |
11000 mi | Left front strut shaft snapped |
59200 mi US $300 |
Both rear tie rod ends need to be replaced, will go to my own mechanic and price. |
174000 mi US $600 |
Bearing |
143-horsepower 2.0L I4 4-speed automatic 4WD
10500 mi US $60 |
noise coming from steering column area, part ordered. have to go back to get part replaced. covered under warranty. |
41540 mi | two inside tie-rods replaced and a wheel alignment done. |
43180 mi C $432 |
Noise in front end when making quick turns like parking. |
57660 mi C $800 |
Lower control arms were replaced because of a noise in the front. The replacement did not fix the noise. So it was a mistake having them done. Found out later it was in my brakes. |
12000 mi | Loose wheel bearing, defect from original build. |
79000 mi US $350 |
Replaced tie rod ends. |
100000 mi US $350 |
Right ball joint and control arm worn out. |
143-horsepower 2.0L I4 5-speed manual FWD
21000 mi | Power steering pump whining. Dealer concluded the pump was going bad. Pump was replaced. |
26000 mi | Power steering pump was whining for the second time. Dealer replaced under warranty. |
46900 mi | Steering noise (squeak) troubleshooted and new steering rack was ordered. |
143-horsepower 2.0L I4 5-speed manual FWD
36940 mi | The front right wheel bearing failed and was replaced. |
143-horsepower 2.0L I4 5-speed manual 4WD
57900 mi US $800 |
Paid for replacement of inner tie rod, spark plugs, and front rotors. |
80000 mi | OEM suspension is getting loose, resulting in bouncy ride and squeaky bushings. for now i solved the squeaking with a good application of liquid wrench spray. however, i'm guessing that new struts, shocks and swaybar bushings are in order. |
54200 mi US $250 |
Replaced worn tie rod end. I was hearing a clunking sound when travelling on rough roads or across railroad tracks. |
110000 mi US $300 |
left rear wheel bearing went out. replaced wheel bearing and hub unit. |
135100 mi | Ball joint/lower control arm replacement. |
147600 mi US $125 |
Inner tie rod end loose and needed to be replaced |
68820 mi C $520 |
Vibration at 40km/hr, tie-rod worn |
98000 mi US $732 |
Control arm Remove and replace lower both sides. Control arm bushings worn, replacing bushings only was not an option. Had to get an alignment afterward. Car need this repair to pass State of VT inspection. |
36000 mi | Noisy power steering pump when partially warmed up |
16740 mi | Front stabilizer bar bushings replaced due to squeaks when going over bumps. |
143-horsepower 2.0L I4 4-speed automatic 4WD
100000 mi US $150 |
the tie rods keep on going. seems like a design fault in the car. |
156700 mi US $360 |
right tie rod end had slight wear causing a little bit of play. mechanic replaced the tie rod end. |
141800 mi US $30 |
noticed a slight click in the front end when shifting into reverse. mechanic checked it and found the left hub nut slightly loose. he re torqued the hub nut and its ok now. |
220000 mi US $1143 |
I noticed that when I put the car in reverse, especially at high idle when the engine is cold there would be a clunk. Years ago this happened and it was a tie rod end. Sure enough same thing this time. They found wear on both inner tie rods. |
29000 mi | power steering pump is making loud noise and vibrating through the steering wheel. |
91000 mi US $1300 |
Both inner tie rod ends were worn. |
120000 mi US $1200 |
Replaced struts, shocks and bushings. |
96000 mi US $1600 |
inner and outer tie rod driver side |
67000 mi US $500 |
control arm on passenger side was worn, and replaced. high cost of labor, low cost of parts |
79000 mi US $250 |
left front wheel was loose, replaced tie rod. |
17000 mi | Strut leaking, replaced under warranty. |
51000 mi US $350 |
Inner tie rod - 43,000 miles - tough job |
55000 mi US $550 |
Lower ball joints & control arm bushings - both right & left sides at 53,000 miles!!! |
77000 mi US $500 |
tie-rod again |
84000 mi US $500 |
ball joints |
68000 mi US $120 |
Leaking power steering hose was patched by the dealer so it leaked again, duh. I replaced it myself. |
83000 mi | Rear bearing corroded and falling out. |
78200 mi US $399 |
Replaced two front tie rods |
71000 mi US $800 |
Front wheel bearing broken |
126000 mi US $600 |
Tie rods worn and had to be replaced. |
70000 mi US $700 |
inner tie rods loose |
22320 mi | Passenger rear wheel hub was replaced. |
107-horsepower 1.6L I4 5-speed manual FWD
39880 mi $230 |
Vibration in the front suspension, the problem coming from steering wheel support. |
Engine not specified
24800 mi $8900 |
Steering Column Noise while driving |
143-horsepower 2.0L I4 5-speed manual FWD
372 mi | front left (aftermarket) wheel sheered all 6 spokes whilst rounding a round-about, repair & Replace front left suspension, brakes, fender under warranty. Lowering kit added at no cost |
143-horsepower 2.0L I4 5-speed manual 4WD
213000 mi US $300 |
Power steering pump replaced |
57040 mi C $661 |
Failure of rear wheel bearing assembly. |
65000 mi US $400 |
Erratic shimmy on the highway. Took to Sears. They diagnosed faulty drivers side tie rod end. Labor rather expensive to to difficulty getting to the part. |
150660 mi C $1000 |
Right rear wheel bearing assembly replacement. |
22000 mi | Noticed noise which caused resonance at over 40mph. Called dealer to bring car in immediately. After inspection, it was determined that the rear passenger bearing was noisy but not failing. Part was ordered and a return trip scheduled for two days later. Brought car in day before Thanksgiving one hour before close to replace rear passenger bearing assembly. Part was in and the tech had it swapped in 45 minutes. Great job. No more problems. |
68200 mi C $1500 |
Major repairs include a tie-rod. |
92540 mi C $750 |
Power steering pump blew. New pump installed |
97340 mi C $358 |
lower control arm right side replaced |
22940 mi | passenger front strut broken, and replaced. |
44020 mi C $210 |
right outer tie rod worn, repaired under extended warranty. Both rear wheel bearings replaced. |
86800 mi C $150 |
Replaced right rear wheel bearing.....Loose |
97340 mi C $250 |
Lower ball joint on both lower tables |
62920 mi C $862 |
Tie-rod end balls worn and loose. |
90140 mi C $1500 |
Suspension was worn, struts were replaced |
105400 mi | Wheel bearing needed replacing |
143-horsepower 2.0L I4 4-speed automatic 4WD
84000 mi | Left rear wheel bearing failed. Required replacement of entire rear-left wheel hub. |
98300 mi US $1200 |
Had to replace control arms, bearings, and a few other things I can't remember at this time. All front end suspension related. |
65000 mi US $300 |
Replace left tie rod (inner + outer) |
166000 mi US $300 |
Changed control arms and rear shocks. |
6000 mi | 'Click' sound from front wheel when car is first driven for the day. This is a Suzuki Technical Service bulletin. |
75000 mi US $870 |
Car needed 2 control arm bushings |
100000 mi US $1100 |
Both real wheel bearings, which on this model include anti-lock brake sensors. Ridiculously expensive. |
14000 mi | Binding noise when turning sharp left or right when car was cold. Turned out there was a service bulletin for axle nuts and strut nuts. |
16000 mi | Service bulletin parts were installed but did not fix the problem. Car remained in shop for 2 additional days. Shop called Suzuki and determined the left cv axel was the cause - new one ordered. New cv axel fixed problem. Car is going back for an alignment due to steering wheel being out of alignment. Shops fault not the cars. Shop should have realigned before releasing the car!! |
17000 mi | 5 trips to the shop to fix one problem - defective cv axel. Number of trips required was due to more to dealer skills than a problem with car. Duluth Dodge needs to get their act together!! |
73000 mi US $400 |
Needed front struts replaced... |
75000 mi US $170 |
Inner tie-rod needed replaced. |
95000 mi US $200 |
Sway bar links on both front wheels had to be replaced. Driving on very rough, rural, dirt roads caused them to wear. |
97000 mi US $490 |
The wheel bearing assembly was expensive and hard to find. |
77680 mi | ball joint replaced |
91760 mi C $200 |
broken tie rod |
107000 mi US $900 |
Replaced left drivers side front end tie rod,alignment needed after that, serpentine belt needed replacement, $600. In the course of a front end alignment being done, it was found that the front driver side control arm needed replacement so it was replaced. $300. |
72540 mi C $500 |
front right control arm assembly |
86180 mi C $180 |
Control arm replacement |
4-cylinder automatic AWD
18600 mi | Upper ball joint |
4-cylinder manual 2WD
9920 mi €190 |
By turning left the right wheel tries to break out also when turning right but not so extreme. |
16120 mi | By turning left the right wheel tries to break out also when turning right, right tire worn out also o right brake pads are worn. |