Chart based on 5 repair trips. The repair cost chart excludes repairs made under warranty, do-it-yourself repairs, and repair trips that include maintenance.
2010 Ford Taurus
Engine not specified
Raw fuel smell in the drivers cabin.
Wrench light on "Limp Mode" operating on 4 cyl not full 6 cyl. The vehicle entered the Ford Freeway Dealership Service Department 5 times and they could not resolve the "Raw Fuel Smell" entering the drivers cabin. The vehicle was been monitored for Combustible Gas detection and results prove positive.
Excessively long transmission downshift delay. Reprogrammed module.
Transmission sensors replaced
After thousands of miles with a burning oil smell, out was determined that the front seal was bad.
replaced ring gear sensor
shop replaced thermostat two days later blown radiator core, replaced radiator and all hoses
3 weeks later...both turbos toast. $8000 in 5 weeks. DONE!
bank 1 pre cat.oxygen sensor no signal.
Replaced Separator Plate per TSB. Plate and gasket assembly.
Buyback. Rough idle issue. First attempt reflashed PCM. Second did spark plugs per TSB. Thirdeplaced fuel injector, coil, wiring harnesses, PCM etc and removed the heads. Total of 74 days. Replaced with a 2011.
Another dealer was able to identify and make repair that was first reported in April. Dealer performed TSB that resolved the issue with the transmission slipping out of gear.
transmission would seem to be in neutral at a stop and then slam into first gear.Sensor was replaced in trans. This is a known problem--the dealer even has the part in stock. Fix seems to correct problem.
the wires from the air intake sensor became frayed and were shorting out.
Turbo sensor failed, resulting in very rough driving. Sensor replaced and all is well... so far.
2 Main recurent problems, still unresolved is push to touch start does not work. Car is unstartable w/o a 2nd remote or leaving the car for 6 hours allowing onboard pc's to sleep mode. Other issue is speed sensor in the tranny.
Cruise control shutting down, transmission appears to hunt for correct gear. Latest event, turned on transmission/AWD error wrench. Went into limp home, which cleared after getting to side of road and restarting. Rest of trip uneventful
Recurring problem. Same as above.
Both turbo's leaking oil at seam.
Leaking oil near rear turbo.
Oil leak required second repair attempt.
Rear turbo oil leak. Dealer finally jumped through enough hoops that Ford let them change the turbo. That was really the overall issue.
Car stalled and bucked after everytime the gas tank was filled. They replaced the gas tank, hoses and vapor valves. After two more fill ups every thing seems to be fixed.
Vehicle exterior lights were flickering, then inside lights when unlocked door opened. Power front seat had moved all the way forward, dash lights flickering too. When push button start (key-less) pushed engine would not start.
Bolt broke where the exhaust manifold connects to the catalytic converter. Causing a loud engine noise.
Transmission reflash to correct low-speed slip shift
Fluctuating idle; "Check Engine" light and dash "wrench" light activated. Throttle Body - replaced.
Continuing problem of false warning lights and chimes, especially CEL. A couple of loose connectors were finally located during diagnostic testing and dealer consultation with factory engineers. Shortly after reporting what I had hoped would finally be a permanent fix my car was back to the dealer for the same problem. They have actually admitted that this set of problems would most likely never be fixed.
Ford engineer worked on this 18 month old problem. Head Up Display module was replaced. It appears to have now finally been fixed as there have been no recurrances of the check engine light or other warning signals.
Capless gas filler not sealing.
Transmission shifting poorly..was told at 1,450 miles I needed to let the transmission "learn" my driving habits more. They reset software to "ground zero" and I am starting from scratch and will see what happens. Wish me luck.
Transmission "slipped" or hard shifted when going from first to second gear at very slow speeds...dealer reflashed transmission and problem seemingly gone (I hope).
coolant in engine oil, dealer diagnosed as blown head gasket, cracked head or failed water pump. Did not have car repaired, debating fixing or salvaging car
Engine light staying on; Diagnosed bad sensor; Sensor ordered.
Engine light on; part (sensor) ordered in Nov & replaced in Dec.
Same problem with engine light coming on; called dealer and the same sensor replaced as in Dec.
Vehicle shut off 2 different times, engine light come on and engine oil light came on,car had to be restarted with button, brought to local dealer and could not find and faults, hard to find a mechanic to diagnose a problem with no codes.
Check engine light on sometimes, car has major ignition knock, dealer diagnosed vacumn leak in booster pump, parts on order car is still driveable for now.
car shuts off seems like after deceleration sometimes, check engine light still on, dealer says car is running lean sometimes and says not o2 sensors, currently has flight recorder installed, we shall see what happens
Check engine light coming on every 3 weeks, finally replaced 2 oxygen sensors and so far so good. Car keeps shutting off at stop light, stop sign, dealer doesn't know why. Car starts right up again no problem.
O2 sensor #1 bank 1 threw engine code. This is the sensor between the intake and firewall. I replaced all four o2 sensors. The most difficult was the lower sensor accessed through the RH wheel-well. Had to cut the wires/use a deep socket.