Engine quit on highway, dealer found no problem first time, engine died a few days later in slow moving traffic. Dealer replaced ECM unit. Car since stalled out again so I guess it's not the ECM?
Car stalled again after dealer reprogrammed the PCM. Dealership replaced the electronic throttle system. All seems well. Dealer also performed an alignment at this service as the car pulls to the left.
Noticed a burning smell after a long highway drive in very cold weather. Dealer found an oil leak and replaced the valve cover and gasket moulding.
Check engine light. Dealer cleared code and recommended fuel system cleaning
The car was cranking a long time before turning over and running rough, with hesitations, loss of power, and trouble shifting (Auto Transmission). The Dealer said the symptoms matched a TSB and a software update would fix it.
After the previous repair attempt, the problem returned in one day: extended cranking, rough running, hesitation, loss of power, trouble shifting.
Metal shavings in the engine, engine was rebuilt.
Check Engine light came on. Dealer said it was a vacuum leak (probably gas cap) and reset the check engine light. I had filled by tank two days before and had driven over 200 miles before the check engine light came on? Wait for fix??
Clip holding wastegate rod broke and needed to be replaced. Was not correctly fixed earlier
Turbocharger exhaust clamp broke. Lost boost. Dealer replaced under warranty
Turbo Oil Return line was leaking. Turbo was making whining noise and continued even after the repair. Oil failure appeared imminent.
Turbo Waste Gate out of adjustment. Intermittent problem with Turbo not working. Code hard to catch. Bought my own OBD2 diagnostic tool to catch the code. Once caught the dealer fixed it. Car without turbo runs like it has 50 hp
It was a TSB issue with the turbocharger.
Oil pan leaking
Computer wasn't calculating fuel mixture correctly so turbo failed to engage. Didn't affect ability to drive. Quick diagnosis and fixed under warranty.
Check engine light came on again, on a previous routine service visit, they said it was because I had the car 'on' while filling gas, but I didn't do that this interval. Cleared the code, and the light came back in about 500 miles.
Catastrophic engine failure. Engine died while on highway.
Engine, turbo and multitude of sensors were eventually replaced. Problem not fully diagnosed.
Cylinder 2 misfire; car almost stalling at low revs. Reset check engine light. All cylinders reported normal.
Misfiring; engine light was on. Re-gapped a spark plug.
Check Engine Light appeared shortly after arriving home from delivery. Dealer reset it, and said it's nothing to worry about.
Engine started stalling. Valve melted into cylinder. Scratched up the walls and base, and damaged the Turbocharger. Dealership replaced Engine and Turbocharger.
Engine developed a severe oil leak.
Oil leak, turbo return line corroded. Line and seals replaced.
Oil leaking from valve cover gasket
Check Engine Light came on, code was for evaporative emissions system, or something like that. A pressure check was done, with no problems found. No repair was made for this issue.
Turbo not responding at start up. Have to shut down and turn back on for Turbo to work. Repaired electronic waste gate. After Turbo repair, check engine light came on. Rough starting/idle. Injector issue on cylinder #2. Showing Misfire. Injector ended up being replaced.
Replaced waste gate valve on turbocharger
Turbo not working
Turbo needed adjustment
Turbo actuator stuck; repaired under warranty.
Turbo waste gate
Replaced solenoid valve.
Dealer said safe 2 drive 2 destination 300mi. Slight miss @ low rpms. OKC dealer found 2 leaking valves. Took 3 days 2 get new valves & entire week for repair! OKC dealer said valves defective and had nothing 2 do with injector problem. Engine missing when started early in morning. No dealer. Fuel additive added thinking water in system. On freeway engine smoothed. Called dealer 100mi away. Told safe to drive. Injector clogged, spark plug burned off. All njtrs & plug repl.
Check engine light on. Local mechanic read as turbo waste gate. Recommended I go to the dealer if it recurred.
Check engine light on, lack of power. Turbo waste gate adjustment
Hi,I noticed I loud ticking noise first then I put my ear up close to block and heard a light grinding sound.They drained the oil to see the block.They said they have to order a new engine block because of piston problem.Only 54,000 miles.
Check engine light on, checked codes and flashed the memory.
Told me it needed a software update and sent me on my way.
Check engine light cleared, checked for leak in fuel system - none found. Gas cap not properly sealing Check engine light on. Cleared light, checked fuel system for leaks, gas cap not sealing properly
Check engine light, checked for fuel leaks. Gas cap not sealing properly
Check engine light was on. Replaced gas cap. Did not fix problem
Check engine light was on. Replaced fuel pump, charcoal cannister and other related parts.
Fuel cap needed replacement. CEL light came back on after only 500 miles. Will be heading back to dealer for diagnosis.
Harmonic balancer was about to fall off. It was damaged and had to be replaced.
Radiator developed a leak. I had noticed coolant drips on the garage floor and figured it was just a loose hose or something like that. Apparently radiator was cracked somewhere. Repaired under warranty same day despite being very busy day.
Low oil pressure light came on. Oil level was good. Dealer replaced oil pressure switch, but computer still thinks there isn't any oil pressure. Car is still with the dealer. Dealer states the chain that operates the oil pump failed. They ordered more parts, but still waiting on a new oil pump to arrive. Car has been with the Hyundai dealer for over 30 days now. It's a U.S. spec car in Germany. Oil pump and other associated parts replaced and vehicle fixed after 5 weeks with a local dealer.
Lever connecting starter motor to engine was broken. Car was towed to dealership (which was covered by roadside assistance) and repaired (not covered under warranty)
Engine low on oil with no warning. Point of failure unclear however the engine was replaced
Engine blown. No warning except lifter sound (like marble in a can). Heard only above 1800 RPM under acceleration. Under 1800 car drove normally. No leaks, temp, smoke. KEEP GOOD RECORDS! Would take two months to get new engine, traded.
Check engine light came on upon start up. Remained on through trip though car operated normally. Stayed on next day during morning trip, off during afternoon trip. Problem solved with ECU reflash.
B1S2 O2 sensor replaced.
engine would not turn off again
replaced tire pressure sensor(still have porblem of low pressure warning light coming on)
repair noise in exhaust shield (still have the noise)
Going down the highway and heard a thump from underneath the car. Did not run over anything. Went to the service department and explained what happened. They performed ecm update.
Originally O2 sensor was bad. Then they told me the catalytic converter was cracked. Repair ordered suggests that they might have damaged it replacing the sensor. Also brake fluid change.
Push button starter would not work. Parts were replaced and computer flash. This issue was also a recall.
Engine recall Campaign 133
Slight oil leak
Car wouldn't start. Dealer wanted $575 for a new starter (ridiculous). It was only broken plastic starter lever (common sonata problem, cheap part). $12 for new lever, $129 for 3rd party shop labor.
Sluggish over 60 mph. Check engine light - p0303 - misfire on cylinder 3. Pulled OEM spark plugs, they looked absolutely terrible (supposed to be rated for 100k). Replaced with more OEM iridium plugs. Problem solved.
CEL came on. Second O2 sensor readings were bad. Dealer determined it was bad and is replacing it free under warranty, waited almost two hours to find out what was wrong, now i have to go back in a week for another 1.5 hours to have it fixed
press to start button inoperative
Starter on fire and engine seized replace sensors that failed from previous replacement
starter button needed to be replaced. car would not start because of technical bulletin on this part.
Connection to ignition switch was loose, causing car to not always start right away with keyless button.
Started failed, replaced. Recall work performed on brakes.
Check engine light on. Dealer scanned and determined problem was thermostat. Hyundai has issued a TSB related to the thermostat, thermostat housing, and gasket. Parts not in stock. Dealer ordered parts and will replace under warranty.
Coolant in ovrflow container continued to lose fluid. Dealer tech said lower coolant hose was pinched, he re-positioned it. Over a yr. later, STILL losing coolant on 5/23/13 at 39301 miles. This time tech discovered "oil cooler tube" was split. Part # 25470-2G000 replaced under warranty. No further problems.
At 30,000 mile scheduled maintenance visit, I mentioned driveability problems. Throttle body was cleaned and adjusted.
Buzzing noise that we thought was a flex pipe - it was just a fuel line bracket. Part ordered - will be installed soon.
Check engine light cam one on highway - dealer diagnosed a thermostat for which a TSB had apprently just been issued. The thermostat was replaced under warranty. Still have intermittent driver's door window control problem - future visit.
Lost power while driving on Interstate 65. Went into limp mode and made it to next exit. Car towed to dealer. Diagnoses was failed TPS. Replaced throttle body under warranty. Tow was also covered under Hyundai Roadside Assistance.
GPS malfunctioning again. Another update was performed.
Throttle Position Sensor and other problems
drive belt needed replaced per dealer as it was "worn and cracking". I replaced the drive belt, and it was worn of course, but it was not cracking at all.
Accessory Belt tensioner needed replaced - was squeaking after putting new belt on. failure to start reliably, but idle was ok, getting some misfire codes. cleaned throttle body plate and car has worked normally since.
Loss of coolant on several occasions, noticed by myself, but topped up. On inspection dealer noticed leak at attachment of hose, part replaced, new coolant, problem solved. Check engine light, no other symptoms although could have been coolant problem.
Car went into "limp" mode; check engine light and "ESC off" lights came on. Dealer replaced throttle body.
The car surged then went into "limp mode" coasting to a stop. After restarting it was driveable but the check engine light stayed on. Dealer replaced throttle position sensor and "updated the computer" under warranty.
Check engine light came on, second o2 sensor on cat. converter failed, replaced under warrantee
I needed the throttle sensor replaced and the software reprogrammed.
intermittent 'limp-home' mode and intermittent 'check engine' light. Dealer replaced the throttle body assembly (warranty).
Check engine light comes on,goes out,4 times in past month engine light has come on,motor goes to idle and throttle does not respond. Have to pull off road,turn off,then it will restart. Dealer not able to diagnosis,says no code in history
Different dealer, where originally purchased. Replace faulty throttle body adjustment switch. Since out of warranty had to pay for replacement.
Same problem as before, check eng. light on, engine goes to idle, no throttle response.
The car had a issue with idling cold with no codes, The dealer reflashed the computer and sent us away. It helped for a while. 3 weeks later the car went into limp mode with codes and a new idle sensor was ordered after a tow to the dealer The idle sensor was replaced and successfully fixed the problem.
A month ago check engine light began to intermittently come on, the vehicle would occasionally lose power. We had the engine light checked and was told it was the TPS sensor. Warranty covered the TPS replacement-$112 for throtle body clean
Small oil pan leak
Needed to apply a TCM software update to solve a problem with abrupt shifts from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gears.
Fuel smell narrowed down to between ports 2 and 3. Pulled the intake - the groove for the intake gasket on port 3 is warped, gasket doesn't seal, thus a minor fuel leak. Replaced gasket, problem still persists. Fuel smell under the hood and inside when the car is stopped at the red light. Could smell it around the car after shutting engine off. 3 visits to the dealer (Richmond Hill Hyundai) said no problem, washed the engine, problem persists Pulled the intake again, applied Permatex gas-resistant high-temp silicone around the gasket. Fuel smell is almost gone, at acceptable level now - cannot smell it inside or outside. Ideally need to replace the intake - an $800 part.
New car, in shop for 32 days with 285 miles. Electrical problems first manifested by trans. shift lock not releasing. Modules, brake switches, main fuse box, and main wiring harness replaced. Proceeding with Lemon Law procedures as the car is not "NEW
Dealer repair service stated that the serpentine belt was cracking and should be replaced. I questioned because mileage was low but they maintained that 5 years is life cycle for such a belt. I asked to save the used one and give it to me.
While Cold, the transmission would jerk while downshifting. Problem went away after engine/trans heated up. Dealer reset the computer and problem is gone. TSB out from manufacturer. No Cost to me.
Hard downshift on stopping. Reprogrammed chip for transmission. Perfect fix. No further problems.
Fuel backed up when filling even less than a gallon. El Paso Hyundai replaced a sensor near the fill line. Some relief but still premature click off at the fuel nozzle. Lakeland FL worked with factory.Obstruction in fuel line (webs)
Putting fuel into tank still causes multiple click-offs of nozzle. BUT, it does not give an error code. I have been videoing my fillups; only happens some of the time.
Unable to add fuel. Hose would click off within adding a gallon of fuel.
Timing chain failure, dealer did repair under warranty coverage, went to pick up after 3 days and found leaking oil in their lot, dealer took 2 more days to repair oil leak.
Difficult to put gas in tank. Nozzles would keep shutting off. Told debris in filler neck. Repair attempt unsuccessful. Makes getting gas time consuming
Ignition switch was failing. Starter would stick in start position. Easy repair, $35 dealer part.
Ignition cylinder would not function-- steering wheel locked. New key cylinder installed.
Knocking or Pinging of the Valves when accelerating.
Emissions leak from dirty fuel tank air filter
vehicle stalled twice (once three days ago after fueling and then again last night while driving on I-95). Dealer found no error codes and could not find any issues with idling or starting. it was FINALLY discovered that the vehicle's fuel pump
was faulty. It was replaced and another Hyundai dealership took very good care of me ( and my new car USED car)
Auto Transmission was repaired in early October. It shuddered and vibrated at between 40-60 miles/h. TCM was updated but didn't resolve the issue but improved shifting quality. Made another appointment to check it up at the end of October.
The problem only occurred when the engine was cold or parked for a long time. I could not replicate the problem and when I explained them what was going on, they said they couldn't fix it unless they see the problem.
gas mpg dropped by 15+ per cent in last 4 months. cleaned fuel injection system.
Key frequently sticks in the ignition and will not turn. Multiple inquiries have produced various possible solutions. O manual says to turn steering wheel and key simultaneously. Locksmith says to clean with Ballistol. Not happy.
Check engine light came on reportedly due to lack of airtight integrity in fuel delivery system - replaced gas cap. Dealer expressed concern about risk of fumes in the cockpit. Excessive costs for "diagnostics" $75+ - considering work done
Replace clogged fuel pump. Parts special ordered from Hyundai, with repairs delayed by 2 consecutive errors in special order fulfillment.
Broken weld on exhaust pipe assembly - also damaged muffler
Tailpipe and muffler replaced under warranty - follow-up to earlier trip when problem was diagnosed and parts ordered.
Clutch, pressure plate & throwout bearing replaced. Flywheel refaced. Dealer says lining just wore out. I purchased the car as certified pre-owned with 25K on the odometer and the clutch never felt quite right and has a much different feel now.
Replaced front crank seal and resealed oil pan.
Camshaft position sensor
Check engine light, stalling, skipping, codes P0300 to P0304. Dealer kept it for over a week and replaced the Oxgen sensor. Dealer could not explain why it happened, They stated, "I hope this does it."
Car idled rough during a warm engine stat-up. Revved high briefly also exhaust smoke noticed. Car made a metallic noise during start-up. Dealer found no problems. Car has been running fine since.
Brakes serviced. Intermitent squeal backing
Engine leaking oil - Timing chain cover. Flushed cooling system and replaced engine oil and filter as well.
Fuel either spills-out or is literally "thrown-out" towards the fuel pump operator during full tank fill-ups when pump detects a full tank and stops filling. Still, inadequate cabin heat! Previous reported repairs under Factory Warranty included the malfunction of the temperature regulating damper door. Dealer had found a missing clip.
Dealer replaced thermostat and coolant this time.
Replaced valve cover gasket.
Hoses are leaking.
throttle paddle replaced
Head gasket leaked, water pump leaked, Idler pulley failed, valve cover leaked oil, rear brakes needed pads and rotors,
My engine developed a knocking noise that sounded "deep". I took the car to the dealer and they agreed that it shouldn't be driven. The dealer called me the next day and told me that it needed a new engine. The dealer replaced the entire long block.
Six hours later car would start, but not accelerate. Had to be towed to nearest dealer. Accelerator switch had broken.
Engine noise like valve lifters since 22K miles when cold. The colder the temperature the louder the noise. Took three trips to dealer. Manufacturing defect. Poor oil supply to #4 cylinder (4 cyl. engine). Replaced short block.
Check engine light came on. Warranty repair- camshaft position sensor indicated overadvanced timing. Corrected.
Check engine light, oil pressure regulator faulty, replaced. Transmission was not going into "OD" (torque converter lockup)and mileage dropped noticeably as a result. Transmission was reprogrammed preventing former premature "lockup" condition since new and OD seems to be working correctly again
Since new, car prematurely upshifted into OD, causing engine lugging, poor throttle response and an objectionably loud booming sound within the cabin. Reprogramming the shift point almost eliminated these issues, netting better overall mpg
engine check light came on required new gas cap (Factory original only
Replaced thermostat because of low heat.
Replaced thermostat. Replaced drivebelt and idler pulleys.
#3 connecting rod bent, catastrophic failure.
Check Engine Light Came on. Went off later on its own.
Replaced Fuel pump
A flap or gasket was not opening properly to let air out so engine can turn over. They replaced it. I can't remember the exact price but it was over $300
needed left bank o2 sensor replaced. Also need to check suspension
the engine was missing
Replaced fuel pump
Fuel pump was too weak to start vehicle. Pump needed replacement, and car needed to be towed to dealer.
Oil leak from Valve Cover that was dripping on the alternator. Dealer fixed under warranty, but had to take it in twice to get it fixed correctly.
Cleaned throttle body
Throttle position sensor going bad. Technician replaced the wrong sensor and misdiagnosed problem even though it is a common and widespread problem with Hyundai. Replaced throttle position sensor.
Persistent engine check light on. Brake sticking.
Timing belt replaced under warranty
check engine light
Fuel pump seal wore out resulting in check engine light. No performance hit but repair required the removal of my back seats.
Vibration felt in cabin when A/C compressor engaged.
Issue appears to have been caused by engine cooling fan. Fan removed - bearings in track of fan casuing "out of balance" condition when fan spinning at high rpm. Fan replaced under warranty
p2106, p1295, p161B Repair was attempted but car would not start easily and ran rough. Kept the car another day and discovered work was not done properly.
Emission codes indicating small vapor leak, this needs to be repaired before the car will pass a New York State inspection. This did not affect the safety or the driving of the car.
Emission system, small vapor leak, O ring and a plastic tube was replaced. Emission system, left lower Oxygen sensor fault.
Throttle position sensor was bad and the car was in "limp mode" and had to be towed into the dealership.
leaky valve cover gasket. Covered under warranty.
Valve covers replaced at 90K under warranty by dealer. Need replaced again after only 10 mths. Dealer says no longer under warranty. Replaced at 3rd party shop for $200. This was cheaper as doing plugs anyways. No longer trust dealer.
Replaced valve cover gasket that the dealer replaced less than a year ago. Also has plugs replaced as well which requires the removal of the plenum to access the rear 3 plugs.
o2 sensor light.
O2 sensor on opposite side quit working. First one replaced in Sept 2012.
another O2 sensor. This is the 3rd trip same problem.
They replaced one sensor and a few days later the check engine light came on and it was ANOTHER 02 sensor
Oil leak from engine block. Diagnosed by dealer saying gasket needed to be replaced.
Check Engine Light just came on. Checked the code myself - issues with Catalytic Converter, it appears.
Check Engine Light on with P0420 code indicating perhaps issues with the O2 sensor or with the actual catalytic converter. Due to the vehicles age and that I intend to only keep it for another 1-2 years. Repair is expensive.
Check Engine light blinking; OBD indicated that all 6 cylinders misfired; read online numerous engine issues identified with '07 Sonata. decided not to repair due to cost vs car resale value.
Random stalling. MAF and throttle body replaced. Dealer claimed K&N air filter damaged them. K&N tested parts, found no defects, probably only needed to be cleaned. K&N refunded repair cost, seeking settlement with Hyundai of Wesley Chapel.
new tensioner pulley thermostat housing replaced. seems after 100,000 miles car is falling apart under normal driving situation.
Check engine light was comming on also car was bucking and shaking at idle. Two sensors were replaced car seems OK now.
Check engine light on, car runs rough. Dealer cleared code said if it came back they would have to change the coil packs.
CEL light constantly going on and off also runs very rough.
Cel light on bad coil pack, replaced. Plugs fouled as a result of misfire dealer refuses to do anything about them. Warranty is useless.
bad idler pulley
Harmonic balancer was coming apart. Also valve covers were leaking oil.
front O2 sensor
rear O2 sensor
Replaced spark plugs and cleaned injectors. Latter was preventive.
Throttle Position Failed and vehicle could not be driven.
Radiator Issue - replaced Radiator. Engine still heats occassionally.
Time chain tensioners
Dropped a cylinder. Found corrosion on one coil pack causing the misfire.
Engine not as smooth as when new. Engine harder to start than when new.
Hyundai new V6 engine for 2006 had a defect with the timing chain tensor. A service bulletin was issued to resolve the issue under warranty. Dealer opened chain cover section of the engine and installed a newly designed component.
Timing chain broke & blew the engine; oil changed every 3k ml. Had oil change 5 days before this @ Tarbox Hyundai RI - was told no current problems w/car. Ordered used engine online & had private service station replace it.
This is the seventh time since April 2010. My Sonata still exhibits the same identical problem with the engine intermittently shutting off without warning. The dealer just reset the ECU.
Oil leak they had to take engine apart to repair it and reassemble but it was repaired
leak in car; pump replaced engine leak
Timing belt problem
Engine made "tapping lifter" noise on cold starts. Dealer changed timing tensioner per TSB, but it didn't help much.
Motor mount had popped loose. Made a clunking noise on acceleration. Dealer checked it and tightened the mount. Issue has not come back.
Engine belt tensioner pulley replaced
Gasoline engine sounds like diesel, making a clacking sound, when started cold. Lasts for 15 minutes, and is not simple cold start issue. This has been around for the last 4000 miles. My guess is some valve issue, perhaps no proper lubrication.
Electronic throttle assembly and related electronics
Harmonic balancer replaced. Earlier complained to the Service as 'loose belt', but 'could not reproduce'.
leaking valve cover replaced
Check Engine Light on...replaced 1 Oxygen Sensor. After getting car back, next day, check engine light blinking. Car towed to dealer. Per dealer replaced a second Oxygen Sensor.
Both valve cover gaskets replaced gas cap replacement
Trouble code indicated bad oxygen sensor. Tech found it okay. Needed factory computer connection to fix problem.
Leaking front valve cover gasket. Repaired under 100k powertrain warranty.
Valve cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets were leaking oil.
timing chain tensioner replaced as per TSB
Strange noise after starter engaged..dealer said they were aware of this problem.
Faulty upper radiator hose... previous dealership service department did not correct the problem.. new dealership did.
Throttle assembly had bad sensors and had to be replaced. There were two other problems:Brake light switch and air bag sensor. The air bag problem was covered by warranty
Left front valve gasket cover brittle and leaking oil into alternator. Discovered when brought in to have spark plugs replaced at 107,000 miles (spark plug removal requires removing the intake manifold)
Car died today without warning while driving . Thought it was alternator, but wasn't that. Crankshaft won't even manually turn. Plenty of oil, battery good. Won't repair or replace engine due to high mileage and cost.Will junk car.
car would not start and flooded itself
Vehicle would not start and was flooded. they had to clean plugs and checked the systems. New battery was installed
Canister valve not working.
Also needs fuel tank vent and filter assemble. Check engine light. Recommend. Service and reflash computer
Install sop vent valve. Replace the Evaporate filter. Code. P0449.
Engine sometimes loses power under full-throttle acceleration. Check Engine, ABS and ESC lamps lit. ABS and ESP lamps go off after restart, and engine power is restored. Check Engine lamp goes off after multiple restarts. Dealer claims OBD has no codes.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
The cam position sensor needed to be changed.
The key got stuck in the ignition. I had to get a locksmith.
Car emitted a groaning sound when starting up from first gear. The sound was intermittent and occurred only for a few seconds before the car shifted to second gear. There was a TSB issued, but the technician at the dealer said he could hear no sound.
Check engine light came on & stayed on. Brought car to dealership. The service department could find no reason for light to come on & reset system.
Charging light kept coming on and when checked was told that the alternator was not charging. The alternator was replaced and the shop advised that leaking oil caused the failure. Gasket still to be replaced to stop oil leak
Replace faulty Throttle Position Sensor.
Oil leak, valve cover gaskets replaced.
Valve gasket leaks a bit of oil on to alternator. Mechanic said I don't need to repair at this time. Update: unclear if still leaking when sold, would have had to clean engine to find out.
Replaced bad fuel pump
Leaking valve cover.
O2 sensor went bad
I twice tried to get my dealer to deal with the ticking and rattle coming from the engine.
replaced oil control valve, check engine light on, code P0011
Engine had a hitch, service engine light came on just before arranged service. Engine continued to hitch and the service engine light came on again!!!
When trying to start the car it would turn over but not start. After 7-8 attempts I was able to get it going and the engine light turned on. Deposits of carbon and sludge from the PCV system get into the throttle body. Cleaned throttle body.
They replaced the manifold.
Oil pan leak, drain plug also replacement of oil pan and gasket.. upon removal found timing cover leak also replaced under 100,000 miles engine warranty.
Car taking too long to warm up. Changed thermostat, hopefully takes care of problem.
Fuel filler overflow was not working correctly. Pump would not shut off when filling car. Replaced fuel line filter/valve assembly.
Gas gauge read inaccurate readings, Gas tank fuel sensor module replaced.
Threw a rod. Totalled the car. I gave it to the junk yard.
Check engine light came on and disappeared several times, then constantly on. Detected code P2187 myself.
Run the car as is and have to find reason. (looked it up - too lean)
New engine code P0455. Not repaired yet for the lack of time.
Oil pan rusted through, leaked oil. Change of oil pan
Car would Vibrate when the A/C was on at stop lights in drive and when in reverse. Spark Plugs Wires and Oxygen Sensor were replaced. The 'check engine' light later came on as well and then went off after a week.
Had issues with check engine light and car stalled out. Dealer diagnosed throttle body bad and owner paid cost of replacement.
Surging remained. New spark plugs end fix.
Radiator seal leaking. Engine overheated. Replaced seal and replaced anti-freeze
Increasing frequency of rough idle/misfire problem, finally threw code, replace EGR, replaced spark plug wires and coil packs as preventative measure.
Oil Leak at valves. Transmission fluid needed change. Spark Plugs and Drive belt change.
valve cover replacement After this repair, car started having a thermostat problem. Engine was going hot and car was stalling on the road and hesitating to move.
Had crank position sensor and timing belt replaced
Timing belt/chain module Dealer repaired same issue.
# 1 spark plug wire failure to # 4 coil.
Engine overheat due to radiator leak,replaced radiator and fluid .
Engine was knocking under load after cold start. Replaced main and rod bearings. Were really worn. Mechanic indicated oil starvation. Will soon check oil pressure. Probably engine abused by previous owner - run low on oil or used bad filter
A crank shaft sensor was out, causing mistiming on engine. Car would stall and die. This might have been caused by an old timing belt problem (which was also replaced, but not listed above - routine maintenance). Sensor replaced. All good.
One of the engine mounts had deteriorated and needed to be replaced.
fuel filler pipe had rusted through, causing emissions failure. part was ordered, yet to be replaced
Check engine light reading indicates 'Crankshaft Position sensor not working.'
Front Passenger side Engine mount worn out and replaced
Replaced timing and driving belts due to squeak caused by worn belts. Engine hard to start and rough idle. Conducted Fuel Induction Service to include replacing of spark plugs. Rough idle remained following service, although car ran better. Owner diagnosis: Worn engine mount.
Serpentine belt and tensioner replacement.
CEL for unknown reason. Reset with no ill effects.
CEL on: misfire due to worn or improperly replaced engine seals causing oil and coolant to leak.
Car overheating due to faulty thermostat. Replaced thermostat
Car was running very rough. Had 2 bad coils replaced in engine. This had been taken to the dealer previously but they did not diagnose the problem. They fixed sensors and not what was causing the sensors to malfunction.
Car was using oil. Replaced valve cover gasket, oil pressure switch.
cam sensor replaced. car wouldn't start after running and parking for awhile. needs catalytic converter and two sensors according to check engine code. Was told this by another shop over a year ago, but both shops say this is not critical and will be expensive.