Excessive valve clatter unless I use premium fuel. Unable to fix because there is "no error code" It's starting to look like Hyundai makes it very difficult for dealerships to get reimbursed for troubleshooting problems.
The "cam Sensor" failed causing the engine to run poorly.
Car hesitated, sputtered and lost power. Dealer could not initially diagnose cause. Hyundai engineers became involved. Replaced engine wiring harness which resolved issue to date.
high pressure fuel pump leaked due to failed bolt. They replaced bolt and seal
TSB issued to update the drivetrain software. Took about an hour at the dealership and afterwards the vehicle had much better throttle response at lower RPM. Also, shifts feel "crisper".
Engine quit on highway, dealer found no problem first time, engine died a few days later in slow moving traffic. Dealer replaced ECM unit. Car since stalled out again so I guess it's not the ECM?
Car stalled again after dealer reprogrammed the PCM. Dealership replaced the electronic throttle system. All seems well. Dealer also performed an alignment at this service as the car pulls to the left.
Noticed a burning smell after a long highway drive in very cold weather. Dealer found an oil leak and replaced the valve cover and gasket moulding.
Check engine light. Dealer cleared code and recommended fuel system cleaning
engine seized on highway. Dealership bought car after repairs. Common issue it seems, I no longer own this vehicle.
The car was cranking a long time before turning over and running rough, with hesitations, loss of power, and trouble shifting (Auto Transmission). The Dealer said the symptoms matched a TSB and a software update would fix it.
After the previous repair attempt, the problem returned in one day: extended cranking, rough running, hesitation, loss of power, trouble shifting.
Check Engine light came on. Dealer said it was a vacuum leak (probably gas cap) and reset the check engine light. I had filled by tank two days before and had driven over 200 miles before the check engine light came on? Wait for fix??
The engine blew. It needs to be replaced. Approx 5 weeks ago Hyundai sent me a notice they were extending my warranty by 20K miles because of possible piston problems. Well driving home from the store the motor blew. No warning lights.
Motor Blew. Needed replacement. Car had 87500 miles on odometer. Replaced motor under Hyundai warranty.
Clip holding wastegate rod broke and needed to be replaced. Was not correctly fixed earlier
Turbocharger exhaust clamp broke. Lost boost. Dealer replaced under warranty
Oil pan leaking
Start button would intermittently work, traded car in for 2016 Hylander
Computer wasn't calculating fuel mixture correctly so turbo failed to engage. Didn't affect ability to drive. Quick diagnosis and fixed under warranty.
It was a TSB issue with the turbocharger.
Turbo Waste Gate out of adjustment. Intermittent problem with Turbo not working. Code hard to catch. Bought my own OBD2 diagnostic tool to catch the code. Once caught the dealer fixed it. Car without turbo runs like it has 50 hp
Turbo Oil Return line was leaking. Turbo was making whining noise and continued even after the repair. Oil failure appeared imminent.
Check engine lighted up for an OCV valve malfunction. Valve was removed, cleaned and reinstalled.
Poor than average gas millage in winter months
Check engine light came on again, on a previous routine service visit, they said it was because I had the car 'on' while filling gas, but I didn't do that this interval. Cleared the code, and the light came back in about 500 miles.
Emissions canister was malfunctioning, causing the check engine light to come on, repaired for free under warranty/
Turbo not responding at start up. Have to shut down and turn back on for Turbo to work. Repaired electronic waste gate. After Turbo repair, check engine light came on. Rough starting/idle. Injector issue on cylinder #2. Showing Misfire. Injector ended up being replaced.
Check engine light on. Local mechanic read as turbo waste gate. Recommended I go to the dealer if it recurred.
Check engine light on, lack of power. Turbo waste gate adjustment
Catastrophic engine failure. Engine died while on highway.
Engine, turbo and multitude of sensors were eventually replaced. Problem not fully diagnosed.
Dealer said safe 2 drive 2 destination 300mi. Slight miss @ low rpms. OKC dealer found 2 leaking valves. Took 3 days 2 get new valves & entire week for repair! OKC dealer said valves defective and had nothing 2 do with injector problem. Engine missing when started early in morning. No dealer. Fuel additive added thinking water in system. On freeway engine smoothed. Called dealer 100mi away. Told safe to drive. Injector clogged, spark plug burned off. All njtrs & plug repl.
Oil leak, turbo return line corroded. Line and seals replaced.
Oil leaking from valve cover gasket
Wastegate actuator frozen, per dealer. Most probably lazy to adjust it. I lost turbo power yesterday and CEL came on. 2 ignition coils had to be replaced too.
Check Engine Light came on, code was for evaporative emissions system, or something like that. A pressure check was done, with no problems found. No repair was made for this issue.
Turbo needed adjustment
Replaced waste gate valve on turbocharger
Replaced solenoid valve.
Turbo not working
Turbo actuator stuck; repaired under warranty.
Turbo waste gate
Check Engine Light appeared shortly after arriving home from delivery. Dealer reset it, and said it's nothing to worry about.
Engine started stalling. Valve melted into cylinder. Scratched up the walls and base, and damaged the Turbocharger. Dealership replaced Engine and Turbocharger.
Cylinder 2 misfire; car almost stalling at low revs. Reset check engine light. All cylinders reported normal.
Misfiring; engine light was on. Re-gapped a spark plug.
Check engine light came on upon start up. Remained on through trip though car operated normally. Stayed on next day during morning trip, off during afternoon trip. Problem solved with ECU reflash.
Harmonic balancer was about to fall off. It was damaged and had to be replaced.
Check engine light cleared, checked for leak in fuel system - none found. Gas cap not properly sealing Check engine light on. Cleared light, checked fuel system for leaks, gas cap not sealing properly
Check engine light, checked for fuel leaks. Gas cap not sealing properly
Check engine light was on. Replaced gas cap. Did not fix problem
Check engine light was on. Replaced fuel pump, charcoal cannister and other related parts.
Lever connecting starter motor to engine was broken. Car was towed to dealership (which was covered by roadside assistance) and repaired (not covered under warranty)
Engine low on oil with no warning. Point of failure unclear however the engine was replaced
Check engine light on, checked codes and flashed the memory.
Told me it needed a software update and sent me on my way.
Low oil pressure light came on. Oil level was good. Dealer replaced oil pressure switch, but computer still thinks there isn't any oil pressure. Car is still with the dealer. Dealer states the chain that operates the oil pump failed. They ordered more parts, but still waiting on a new oil pump to arrive. Car has been with the Hyundai dealer for over 30 days now. It's a U.S. spec car in Germany. Oil pump and other associated parts replaced and vehicle fixed after 5 weeks with a local dealer.
Fuel cap needed replacement. CEL light came back on after only 500 miles. Will be heading back to dealer for diagnosis.
The CEL is still intermittent, I believe it's still the fuel cap. The problem was never fully resolved. It's not on right know (knock wood) and hopefully it stays off!
engine would not turn off again
replaced tire pressure sensor(still have porblem of low pressure warning light coming on)
repair noise in exhaust shield (still have the noise)
B1S2 O2 sensor replaced.
Engine blown. No warning except lifter sound (like marble in a can). Heard only above 1800 RPM under acceleration. Under 1800 car drove normally. No leaks, temp, smoke. KEEP GOOD RECORDS! Would take two months to get new engine, traded.
Hi,I noticed I loud ticking noise first then I put my ear up close to block and heard a light grinding sound.They drained the oil to see the block.They said they have to order a new engine block because of piston problem.Only 54,000 miles.
Radiator developed a leak. I had noticed coolant drips on the garage floor and figured it was just a loose hose or something like that. Apparently radiator was cracked somewhere. Repaired under warranty same day despite being very busy day.
Push button starter would not work. Parts were replaced and computer flash. This issue was also a recall.
Engine recall Campaign 133
starter button needed to be replaced. car would not start because of technical bulletin on this part.
would not start, new computer installed
Slight oil leak
A leak in the oil pain was fixed.
CEL came on. Second O2 sensor readings were bad. Dealer determined it was bad and is replacing it free under warranty, waited almost two hours to find out what was wrong, now i have to go back in a week for another 1.5 hours to have it fixed
press to start button inoperative
Check engine light on. Dealer scanned and determined problem was thermostat. Hyundai has issued a TSB related to the thermostat, thermostat housing, and gasket. Parts not in stock. Dealer ordered parts and will replace under warranty.
Radiator developed a crack in the plastic below the radiator cap. It was slowly losing fluid. The Radiator was replaced under warrenty at no cost.
Going down the highway and heard a thump from underneath the car. Did not run over anything. Went to the service department and explained what happened. They performed ecm update.
Originally O2 sensor was bad. Then they told me the catalytic converter was cracked. Repair ordered suggests that they might have damaged it replacing the sensor. Also brake fluid change.
replaced oxygen sensor under factory warranty
Started failed, replaced. Recall work performed on brakes.
oil pan gasket
Starter on fire and engine seized replace sensors that failed from previous replacement
Coolant in ovrflow container continued to lose fluid. Dealer tech said lower coolant hose was pinched, he re-positioned it. Over a yr. later, STILL losing coolant on 5/23/13 at 39301 miles. This time tech discovered "oil cooler tube" was split. Part # 25470-2G000 replaced under warranty. No further problems.
Car wouldn't start. Dealer wanted $575 for a new starter (ridiculous). It was only broken plastic starter lever (common sonata problem, cheap part). $12 for new lever, $129 for 3rd party shop labor.
Sluggish over 60 mph. Check engine light - p0303 - misfire on cylinder 3. Pulled OEM spark plugs, they looked absolutely terrible (supposed to be rated for 100k). Replaced with more OEM iridium plugs. Problem solved.
Engine unusually noisy under load -- a type of clattering sound. I suspect pre-detonation, but dealer says sound is normal.
Connection to ignition switch was loose, causing car to not always start right away with keyless button.
At 30,000 mile scheduled maintenance visit, I mentioned driveability problems. Throttle body was cleaned and adjusted.
Buzzing noise that we thought was a flex pipe - it was just a fuel line bracket. Part ordered - will be installed soon.
Check engine light cam one on highway - dealer diagnosed a thermostat for which a TSB had apprently just been issued. The thermostat was replaced under warranty. Still have intermittent driver's door window control problem - future visit.
Lost power while driving on Interstate 65. Went into limp mode and made it to next exit. Car towed to dealer. Diagnoses was failed TPS. Replaced throttle body under warranty. Tow was also covered under Hyundai Roadside Assistance.
drive belt needed replaced per dealer as it was "worn and cracking". I replaced the drive belt, and it was worn of course, but it was not cracking at all.
Accessory Belt tensioner needed replaced - was squeaking after putting new belt on. failure to start reliably, but idle was ok, getting some misfire codes. cleaned throttle body plate and car has worked normally since.
Throttle Position Sensor and other problems
GPS malfunctioning again. Another update was performed.
oil pan had been leaking; replaced and new installed by dealer - labor & parts $450
Loss of coolant on several occasions, noticed by myself, but topped up. On inspection dealer noticed leak at attachment of hose, part replaced, new coolant, problem solved. Check engine light, no other symptoms although could have been coolant problem.
Car went into "limp" mode; check engine light and "ESC off" lights came on. Dealer replaced throttle body.
The car surged then went into "limp mode" coasting to a stop. After restarting it was driveable but the check engine light stayed on. Dealer replaced throttle position sensor and "updated the computer" under warranty.
A month ago check engine light began to intermittently come on, the vehicle would occasionally lose power. We had the engine light checked and was told it was the TPS sensor. Warranty covered the TPS replacement-$112 for throtle body clean
Small oil pan leak
intermittent 'limp-home' mode and intermittent 'check engine' light. Dealer replaced the throttle body assembly (warranty).
Fuel line leak; replaced fuel pipe
Needed to apply a TCM software update to solve a problem with abrupt shifts from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gears.
I needed the throttle sensor replaced and the software reprogrammed.
The car had a issue with idling cold with no codes, The dealer reflashed the computer and sent us away. It helped for a while. 3 weeks later the car went into limp mode with codes and a new idle sensor was ordered after a tow to the dealer The idle sensor was replaced and successfully fixed the problem.
Check engine light comes on,goes out,4 times in past month engine light has come on,motor goes to idle and throttle does not respond. Have to pull off road,turn off,then it will restart. Dealer not able to diagnosis,says no code in history
Different dealer, where originally purchased. Replace faulty throttle body adjustment switch. Since out of warranty had to pay for replacement.
Same problem as before, check eng. light on, engine goes to idle, no throttle response.
Dealer reported a head gasket leak.
Dealer reported head gasket was leaking
Check engine light came on, second o2 sensor on cat. converter failed, replaced under warrantee
Timing chain failure, dealer did repair under warranty coverage, went to pick up after 3 days and found leaking oil in their lot, dealer took 2 more days to repair oil leak.
Auto Transmission was repaired in early October. It shuddered and vibrated at between 40-60 miles/h. TCM was updated but didn't resolve the issue but improved shifting quality. Made another appointment to check it up at the end of October.
The problem only occurred when the engine was cold or parked for a long time. I could not replicate the problem and when I explained them what was going on, they said they couldn't fix it unless they see the problem.
Emissions leak from dirty fuel tank air filter
Dealer repair service stated that the serpentine belt was cracking and should be replaced. I questioned because mileage was low but they maintained that 5 years is life cycle for such a belt. I asked to save the used one and give it to me.
Hard downshift on stopping. Reprogrammed chip for transmission. Perfect fix. No further problems.
While Cold, the transmission would jerk while downshifting. Problem went away after engine/trans heated up. Dealer reset the computer and problem is gone. TSB out from manufacturer. No Cost to me.
Fuel backed up when filling even less than a gallon. El Paso Hyundai replaced a sensor near the fill line. Some relief but still premature click off at the fuel nozzle. Lakeland FL worked with factory.Obstruction in fuel line (webs)
Putting fuel into tank still causes multiple click-offs of nozzle. BUT, it does not give an error code. I have been videoing my fillups; only happens some of the time.
Unable to add fuel. Hose would click off within adding a gallon of fuel.
gas mpg dropped by 15+ per cent in last 4 months. cleaned fuel injection system.
Key frequently sticks in the ignition and will not turn. Multiple inquiries have produced various possible solutions. O manual says to turn steering wheel and key simultaneously. Locksmith says to clean with Ballistol. Not happy.
Check engine light came on reportedly due to lack of airtight integrity in fuel delivery system - replaced gas cap. Dealer expressed concern about risk of fumes in the cockpit. Excessive costs for "diagnostics" $75+ - considering work done
Replace clogged fuel pump. Parts special ordered from Hyundai, with repairs delayed by 2 consecutive errors in special order fulfillment.
oil pressure light flashed on for several seconds ; mechanic said:rn(1) dx computer old codes re possible issues with fuel injector in #4 cylinderrn(2) will need to use Lucas Oil Treatment w/ oil chg due to signs of engine inefficiency
Knocking or Pinging of the Valves when accelerating.
vehicle stalled twice (once three days ago after fueling and then again last night while driving on I-95). Dealer found no error codes and could not find any issues with idling or starting. it was FINALLY discovered that the vehicle's fuel pump
was faulty. It was replaced and another Hyundai dealership took very good care of me ( and my new car USED car)
New car, in shop for 32 days with 285 miles. Electrical problems first manifested by trans. shift lock not releasing. Modules, brake switches, main fuse box, and main wiring harness replaced. Proceeding with Lemon Law procedures as the car is not "NEW
Fuel smell narrowed down to between ports 2 and 3. Pulled the intake - the groove for the intake gasket on port 3 is warped, gasket doesn't seal, thus a minor fuel leak. Replaced gasket, problem still persists. Fuel smell under the hood and inside when the car is stopped at the red light. Could smell it around the car after shutting engine off. 3 visits to the dealer (Richmond Hill Hyundai) said no problem, washed the engine, problem persists Pulled the intake again, applied Permatex gas-resistant high-temp silicone around the gasket. Fuel smell is almost gone, at acceptable level now - cannot smell it inside or outside. Ideally need to replace the intake - an $800 part.
Evaporated vent valve ng
Oil leak from timing chain cover. Replaced seal.
Difficult to put gas in tank. Nozzles would keep shutting off. Told debris in filler neck. Repair attempt unsuccessful. Makes getting gas time consuming
Ignition switch was failing. Starter would stick in start position. Easy repair, $35 dealer part.
Accessory drive belt idler started squealing. Replaced idlers (2), tensioner, and belt.
Check engine light, stalling, skipping, codes P0300 to P0304. Dealer kept it for over a week and replaced the Oxgen sensor. Dealer could not explain why it happened, They stated, "I hope this does it."
Broken weld on exhaust pipe assembly - also damaged muffler
Tailpipe and muffler replaced under warranty - follow-up to earlier trip when problem was diagnosed and parts ordered.
Clutch, pressure plate & throwout bearing replaced. Flywheel refaced. Dealer says lining just wore out. I purchased the car as certified pre-owned with 25K on the odometer and the clutch never felt quite right and has a much different feel now.
Car idled rough during a warm engine stat-up. Revved high briefly also exhaust smoke noticed. Car made a metallic noise during start-up. Dealer found no problems. Car has been running fine since.
Brakes serviced. Intermitent squeal backing
Engine leaking oil - Timing chain cover. Flushed cooling system and replaced engine oil and filter as well.
Fuel either spills-out or is literally "thrown-out" towards the fuel pump operator during full tank fill-ups when pump detects a full tank and stops filling. Still, inadequate cabin heat! Previous reported repairs under Factory Warranty included the malfunction of the temperature regulating damper door. Dealer had found a missing clip.
Dealer replaced thermostat and coolant this time.
Six hours later car would start, but not accelerate. Had to be towed to nearest dealer. Accelerator switch had broken.
Replaced valve cover gasket.
Hoses are leaking.
throttle paddle replaced
My engine developed a knocking noise that sounded "deep". I took the car to the dealer and they agreed that it shouldn't be driven. The dealer called me the next day and told me that it needed a new engine. The dealer replaced the entire long block.
Head gasket leaked, water pump leaked, Idler pulley failed, valve cover leaked oil, rear brakes needed pads and rotors,
Replaced thermostat. Replaced drivebelt and idler pulleys.
Replaced thermostat because of low heat.
engine check light came on required new gas cap (Factory original only
#3 connecting rod bent, catastrophic failure.
needed left bank o2 sensor replaced. Also need to check suspension
Fuel pump was too weak to start vehicle. Pump needed replacement, and car needed to be towed to dealer.
During safety inspection, it was determined that the car needed an exhaust pipe.
Engine noise like valve lifters since 22K miles when cold. The colder the temperature the louder the noise. Took three trips to dealer. Manufacturing defect. Poor oil supply to #4 cylinder (4 cyl. engine). Replaced short block.
Replaced fuel pump
Check engine light came on. Warranty repair- camshaft position sensor indicated overadvanced timing. Corrected.
Check engine light, oil pressure regulator faulty, replaced. Transmission was not going into "OD" (torque converter lockup)and mileage dropped noticeably as a result. Transmission was reprogrammed preventing former premature "lockup" condition since new and OD seems to be working correctly again
Since new, car prematurely upshifted into OD, causing engine lugging, poor throttle response and an objectionably loud booming sound within the cabin. Reprogramming the shift point almost eliminated these issues, netting better overall mpg
A flap or gasket was not opening properly to let air out so engine can turn over. They replaced it. I can't remember the exact price but it was over $300
the engine was missing
Check Engine Light Came on. Went off later on its own.
Check Engine Light just came on. Checked the code myself - issues with Catalytic Converter, it appears.
Check Engine Light on with P0420 code indicating perhaps issues with the O2 sensor or with the actual catalytic converter. Due to the vehicles age and that I intend to only keep it for another 1-2 years. Repair is expensive.
Check Engine light blinking; OBD indicated that all 6 cylinders misfired; read online numerous engine issues identified with '07 Sonata. decided not to repair due to cost vs car resale value.
Check Engine Light started to flash. Car was at around 225,000. extremely well kept with all regular services done at the dealer. Too early, imo, for such an issue. resale value was less than $5000, again, too low for a 2007 imo.
o2 sensor light.
O2 sensor on opposite side quit working. First one replaced in Sept 2012.
another O2 sensor. This is the 3rd trip same problem.
They replaced one sensor and a few days later the check engine light came on and it was ANOTHER 02 sensor
p2106, p1295, p161B Repair was attempted but car would not start easily and ran rough. Kept the car another day and discovered work was not done properly.
Emission codes indicating small vapor leak, this needs to be repaired before the car will pass a New York State inspection. This did not affect the safety or the driving of the car.
Emission system, small vapor leak, O ring and a plastic tube was replaced. Emission system, left lower Oxygen sensor fault.
New York State inspection, small emission leak. This not a safety or reliability problem.
Pcv valve clogged
Fuel pump seal wore out resulting in check engine light. No performance hit but repair required the removal of my back seats.
check engine light
Cleaned throttle body
Oil leak from engine block. Diagnosed by dealer saying gasket needed to be replaced.
& block gasket.
leaky valve cover gasket. Covered under warranty.
Valve covers replaced at 90K under warranty by dealer. Need replaced again after only 10 mths. Dealer says no longer under warranty. Replaced at 3rd party shop for $200. This was cheaper as doing plugs anyways. No longer trust dealer.
Replaced valve cover gasket that the dealer replaced less than a year ago. Also has plugs replaced as well which requires the removal of the plenum to access the rear 3 plugs.
Replaced leaking valve cover gaskets.
Throttle position sensor was bad and the car was in "limp mode" and had to be towed into the dealership.
Persistent engine check light on. Brake sticking.
Timing belt replaced under warranty
Vibration felt in cabin when A/C compressor engaged.
Issue appears to have been caused by engine cooling fan. Fan removed - bearings in track of fan casuing "out of balance" condition when fan spinning at high rpm. Fan replaced under warranty
Throttle position sensor going bad. Technician replaced the wrong sensor and misdiagnosed problem even though it is a common and widespread problem with Hyundai. Replaced throttle position sensor.
Oil leak from Valve Cover that was dripping on the alternator. Dealer fixed under warranty, but had to take it in twice to get it fixed correctly.
Random stalling. MAF and throttle body replaced. Dealer claimed K&N air filter damaged them. K&N tested parts, found no defects, probably only needed to be cleaned. K&N refunded repair cost, seeking settlement with Hyundai of Wesley Chapel.
Check Engine Light on...replaced 1 Oxygen Sensor. After getting car back, next day, check engine light blinking. Car towed to dealer. Per dealer replaced a second Oxygen Sensor.
Throttle assembly had bad sensors and had to be replaced. There were two other problems:Brake light switch and air bag sensor. The air bag problem was covered by warranty
Left front valve gasket cover brittle and leaking oil into alternator. Discovered when brought in to have spark plugs replaced at 107,000 miles (spark plug removal requires removing the intake manifold)
Car died today without warning while driving . Thought it was alternator, but wasn't that. Crankshaft won't even manually turn. Plenty of oil, battery good. Won't repair or replace engine due to high mileage and cost.Will junk car.
Check engine light was comming on also car was bucking and shaking at idle. Two sensors were replaced car seems OK now.
Check engine light on, car runs rough. Dealer cleared code said if it came back they would have to change the coil packs.
CEL light constantly going on and off also runs very rough.
Cel light on bad coil pack, replaced. Plugs fouled as a result of misfire dealer refuses to do anything about them. Warranty is useless.
bad idler pulley
Harmonic balancer was coming apart. Also valve covers were leaking oil.
Throttle Position Failed and vehicle could not be driven.
Engine sometimes loses power under full-throttle acceleration. Check Engine, ABS and ESC lamps lit. ABS and ESP lamps go off after restart, and engine power is restored. Check Engine lamp goes off after multiple restarts. Dealer claims OBD has no codes.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Radiator Issue - replaced Radiator. Engine still heats occassionally.
front O2 sensor
rear O2 sensor
Replaced spark plugs and cleaned injectors. Latter was preventive.
Car emitted a groaning sound when starting up from first gear. The sound was intermittent and occurred only for a few seconds before the car shifted to second gear. There was a TSB issued, but the technician at the dealer said he could hear no sound.
Check engine light came on & stayed on. Brought car to dealership. The service department could find no reason for light to come on & reset system.
Time chain tensioners
Leaking valve cover.
Dropped a cylinder. Found corrosion on one coil pack causing the misfire.
Oil leak, valve cover gaskets replaced.
O2 sensor went bad
I twice tried to get my dealer to deal with the ticking and rattle coming from the engine.
Canister valve not working.
Also needs fuel tank vent and filter assemble. Check engine light. Recommend. Service and reflash computer
Install sop vent valve. Replace the Evaporate filter. Code. P0449.
Replaced bad fuel pump
Both valve cover gaskets replaced gas cap replacement
Timing chain broke & blew the engine; oil changed every 3k ml. Had oil change 5 days before this @ Tarbox Hyundai RI - was told no current problems w/car. Ordered used engine online & had private service station replace it.
Oil leak they had to take engine apart to repair it and reassemble but it was repaired
leak in car; pump replaced engine leak
This is the seventh time since April 2010. My Sonata still exhibits the same identical problem with the engine intermittently shutting off without warning. The dealer just reset the ECU.
new tensioner pulley thermostat housing replaced. seems after 100,000 miles car is falling apart under normal driving situation.
Hyundai new V6 engine for 2006 had a defect with the timing chain tensor. A service bulletin was issued to resolve the issue under warranty. Dealer opened chain cover section of the engine and installed a newly designed component.
Engine not as smooth as when new. Engine harder to start than when new.
car would not start and flooded itself
Vehicle would not start and was flooded. they had to clean plugs and checked the systems. New battery was installed
Three motor mounts were busted and transmission mount was starting to fail. Replaced all four mounts.
Trouble code indicated bad oxygen sensor. Tech found it okay. Needed factory computer connection to fix problem.
Leaking front valve cover gasket. Repaired under 100k powertrain warranty.
Valve cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets were leaking oil.
timing chain tensioner replaced as per TSB
Replace faulty Throttle Position Sensor.
Valve gasket leaks a bit of oil on to alternator. Mechanic said I don't need to repair at this time. Update: unclear if still leaking when sold, would have had to clean engine to find out.
Engine belt tensioner pulley replaced
Gasoline engine sounds like diesel, making a clacking sound, when started cold. Lasts for 15 minutes, and is not simple cold start issue. This has been around for the last 4000 miles. My guess is some valve issue, perhaps no proper lubrication.
Electronic throttle assembly and related electronics
Harmonic balancer replaced. Earlier complained to the Service as 'loose belt', but 'could not reproduce'.
leaking valve cover replaced
Timing belt problem
Engine made "tapping lifter" noise on cold starts. Dealer changed timing tensioner per TSB, but it didn't help much.
Motor mount had popped loose. Made a clunking noise on acceleration. Dealer checked it and tightened the mount. Issue has not come back.
Strange noise after starter engaged..dealer said they were aware of this problem.
Faulty upper radiator hose... previous dealership service department did not correct the problem.. new dealership did.
Charging light kept coming on and when checked was told that the alternator was not charging. The alternator was replaced and the shop advised that leaking oil caused the failure. Gasket still to be replaced to stop oil leak
The cam position sensor needed to be changed.
The key got stuck in the ignition. I had to get a locksmith.
Catastrophic engine failure, subsequent three additional engine repair related repairs.
Replace flex pipe.
Gas gauge read inaccurate readings, Gas tank fuel sensor module replaced.
Exhaust pipe leak
A surge had developed while driving at approx 55mph with the cruise control on. The dealer couldn't duplicate it - so no fix (yeah - I wasn't happy).
replaced oil control valve, check engine light on, code P0011
Had to replace ignition cylinder as the key would often not turn.
Fuel filler overflow was not working correctly. Pump would not shut off when filling car. Replaced fuel line filter/valve assembly.
Threw a rod. Totalled the car. I gave it to the junk yard.
When trying to start the car it would turn over but not start. After 7-8 attempts I was able to get it going and the engine light turned on. Deposits of carbon and sludge from the PCV system get into the throttle body. Cleaned throttle body.
They replaced the manifold.
both oxygen sensors became faulty and had to be replaced
Timing belt issue, except it was not due for a replacement.
Oil pan leak, drain plug also replacement of oil pan and gasket.. upon removal found timing cover leak also replaced under 100,000 miles engine warranty.
Car taking too long to warm up. Changed thermostat, hopefully takes care of problem.
Check engine light came on and disappeared several times, then constantly on. Detected code P2187 myself.
Run the car as is and have to find reason. (looked it up - too lean)
New engine code P0455. Not repaired yet for the lack of time.
Oil pan rusted through, leaked oil. Change of oil pan
Car would Vibrate when the A/C was on at stop lights in drive and when in reverse. Spark Plugs Wires and Oxygen Sensor were replaced. The 'check engine' light later came on as well and then went off after a week.
Radiator seal leaking. Engine overheated. Replaced seal and replaced anti-freeze
Engine was knocking under load after cold start. Replaced main and rod bearings. Were really worn. Mechanic indicated oil starvation. Will soon check oil pressure. Probably engine abused by previous owner - run low on oil or used bad filter
Increasing frequency of rough idle/misfire problem, finally threw code, replace EGR, replaced spark plug wires and coil packs as preventative measure.
Timing belt/chain module Dealer repaired same issue.
# 1 spark plug wire failure to # 4 coil.
Engine overheat due to radiator leak,replaced radiator and fluid .
Hard to accelerate... SCOPE TEST, COMPUTER SCAN,FUEL PRESSURE TEST. Changed spark plugs, spark plug wires,ignition coil. Stored catalytic converter code as a result of misfires. No converter work.
Oil Leak at valves. Transmission fluid needed change. Spark Plugs and Drive belt change.
valve cover replacement After this repair, car started having a thermostat problem. Engine was going hot and car was stalling on the road and hesitating to move.
crankshaft sensor (maintenance included timing belt, accessory belts, brake job and stereo upgrades)
Had issues with check engine light and car stalled out. Dealer diagnosed throttle body bad and owner paid cost of replacement.
Surging remained. New spark plugs end fix.
Had crank position sensor and timing belt replaced
A crank shaft sensor was out, causing mistiming on engine. Car would stall and die. This might have been caused by an old timing belt problem (which was also replaced, but not listed above - routine maintenance). Sensor replaced. All good.
One of the engine mounts had deteriorated and needed to be replaced.
fuel filler pipe had rusted through, causing emissions failure. part was ordered, yet to be replaced
Serpentine belt and tensioner replacement.
CEL for unknown reason. Reset with no ill effects.
CEL on: misfire due to worn or improperly replaced engine seals causing oil and coolant to leak.
Check engine light reading indicates 'Crankshaft Position sensor not working.'
Front Passenger side Engine mount worn out and replaced
CAR OVERHEATED AND BLEW A HEAD GASKET
Car overheating due to faulty thermostat. Replaced thermostat
Car was running very rough. Had 2 bad coils replaced in engine. This had been taken to the dealer previously but they did not diagnose the problem. They fixed sensors and not what was causing the sensors to malfunction.
Car was using oil. Replaced valve cover gasket, oil pressure switch.
Replaced timing and driving belts due to squeak caused by worn belts. Engine hard to start and rough idle. Conducted Fuel Induction Service to include replacing of spark plugs. Rough idle remained following service, although car ran better. Owner diagnosis: Worn engine mount.
cam sensor replaced. car wouldn't start after running and parking for awhile. needs catalytic converter and two sensors according to check engine code. Was told this by another shop over a year ago, but both shops say this is not critical and will be expensive.