Transmission shifting hard. They reset the driving mode of the computer, which didn't fix the issue. I then received a check engine light and a Blue Link notification. Called them and they diagnosed a Temperature Sensor issue.
Transmission was shifting very harsh with delayed up shifts. There was also a check engine light present. Dealer reflashed the computer. Problem resolved for a few weeks and has since returned.
Transmission holding gears longer than normal when car is cold. Dealer flushed fluid and updates to software completed.
The transmission began having problems shifting and a warning light on the dash illuminated. A faulty transmission temperature sensor was replaced.
Defective transmission pan sensor and harness.It required two separate trips to get all the parts replaced. Covered by warranty.
I was having problems with the automatic transmission--late shifts, inconsistent, struggling to find a gear. I took it for service and they "re-learned the transmission adaptive learning" (their words, not mine) and the problem seemed to go away.
Start button intermittent. Problem corrected, when they did the recall for shifter cable. Switch was damaged and was intermittent... Had shifter position sensor replaced and now ok.
Rough shifts. Transmission temperature range sensor replaced
This was to repair a known manufacturer defect in the drivetrain where the transmission slips out of gear and/or will not shift into gear. This was fixed under warranty by the dealer.
Vibration at slow speeds. I am giving up on this problem because the dealer refuses to fix it. This will be my first and last Hyundai
After all the bad press about the engine design problems with the 2011-2013 Sonata 4 cylinder engine I decided to trade it in for a Honda CR-V. No more Hyundais for me. The dealer never really came clean with the vibration problem.
transmission sliped after initial take off loud bump, bang into next gear, let off pedal let it coast, pressed pedal rpms raced to 5k released tranny stuck in 4th gear limped to dealer no word on repair yet
Transmission sometimes failed to shift out of park. Inhibit switch replaced umder warranty.
Popping noise. New drive shaft installed under warrantee
Car would not start. Towed to the dealer. Plastic fork part on the starter broke. It was replaced under warranty.
Leaking trans with fluid on TOP of the transmission case. "Cleaned" and put dye in. Wait for new leak (which by the way has shown up again).
Leaking breather bolt. Could not fix bolt/bolt hole. Replaced entire transmission with reman.
Squeaking sound coming from rear passenger side tire.
Recall work done under warranty - can't remember the tsb. Something with a sensor. Occasional hard shifts. Now have them a lot less frequently, but still sometimes. Now so infrequent that dealer probably won't replicate.
Problem when shifting...sensor went bad.
Transmission wouldn't shift correctly. The EL001 "Transmission Range Switch" (sensor)replaced for $257.
recall done on the shifter sensor. Shifter failed to recognize that the care was in Park.
No start, battery ok, no gear indicator on dash, rough shift from park to R or D. Faulty Trans Range Switch replaced. Transmission feels smoother now.
Same issue as what happened before with rough shifting and gear indicator on dash going blank. First time they thought a recent transmission recall would fix it. It didn't and they replaced TRS one one more time under extended warranty.
Passenger Door has tinny hollow sound when shut. Dealer heard sound and admitted it sounded bad however can't repair it. Customer unhappy with outcome.
A/T temperature sensor shows cold transmission. Service bulletin put out by Hyundai on this problem. Result was rough shifts occasionally and check engine light on at higher altitudes (5,000 ft +).
Both CV joints bad.
Clicking transaxle during sharp turns when extremely cold
Bad transmission sensor. Replaced under warranty.
When switching gears, the gear indicator showed blank and check engine light was on. The problem was caused by faulty gear position sensor, replaced, problem is gone.
Heard a loud bang while turning left at approx 40 mph, car jerked real hard. There was also an electrical burn smell inside the vehicle as a result of the incident. Service couldn't duplicate the issue thus, no repair was done.
The transmission is also apt to act a little 'jerky' at times. However, since it spits out no codes, its considered ok.
Replaced 2 silemoids - no 5th or 6th gear. While driving @ 50 mph, felt like I hit cinder block. Car stuck in 4th gear.
Replaced transmission - pulling out total melt down with transmission. Stuck in 4th gear RPM's @ 5K. All with my 5 year old with me on major road - not good.
Both front axles had been squealing when fully turned at slow speeds. The dealer found an appropriate repair bulletin and replaced both front axles
Problem since 250km, 4th visit. Finally agreement:double flywheel clutch is faulty - causing RPM drop on engagement/stalling/rough changes. Entire clutch replaced under warranty. In shop 19 days, replacement vehicle provided.
Transmission jerks when downshifting while slowing down. Started doing it during a recent trip and when i checked, there was no oil. I refilled. Problem returned after 2 day. Dealer couldn't identify and told me to bring it back when it happens regularly.
Problem with transmission downshifting while slowing down. When cold, the transmission gives a big jolt when downshifting. As the car heats up the problem disappears. Did the 30k service which included tranny service but problem remains.
Same issue, dealer had car for 18days, ended up having to replace the transmission. Took parts from stock car to verify it was not computers.
Transmission had developed a hard downshift to 1st gear when transmission was cold. There was a TSB concerning the problem - dealer did the required computer update.
Transmission was jumping when downshifting. Had to pay for a reprogramming of the latest firmware for the transmission computer as well as a transmission flush.
Hard downshift from 3rd to 2cnd when the car was cold. A software update was applied. This took care of the problem.
Hard(er) shifts. Acceptable, would not call them a problem, but not as smooth as when new. Drain and fill ATF with original SPIII ATF, shift quality noticeably improved. Required about 3.6L of ATF.
Transmission was shifting very hard from 4th to 3rd. Had to have the transmission control computer reset and updated to newest firmware. Not covered by warranty.
Car was downshifting into 3rd roughly. The dealer reset the computer values to the default.
I'm still having an issue with my transmission but the dealer didn't see any problem. I dropped off my car for 2 days in July, but the dealer said there was no problem which I'm still experiencing.
There was an issue with a hard downshift. Not sure if it was the adaptive driving feature or firmware. The adaptive driving was reset and new firmware was applied per a TSB.
I had to pay diagnostic fee, but not repair cost.
software upgrade to stop transmission from jerking when coming to a stop
A faulty sensor was found thanks to my check engine light. Not sure what the name of it was
clutch falls to floor on a soft foot. clutch pressure not spec. Dealer ordered new part. Same problem. Soft foot makes clutch fall to floor without pressure to pop up.
The clutch pedal would grab high, low, then stay enguaged, then a popping noise and the clutch pedal went to the floor with fluid coming out of the transmission. I had the car for 13 miles and the same condition came back, stopped working on my home street, had the service manager come out and confirm, and needed to be towed again. Replaced some valve (Service advisor said they didn't know what it was) in the clutch system and replaced the slave cylinder again. At this point it was irrelevant,the car is unreliable. Hyundai and dealer refuse to work on the car anymore, I'm Stuck.
I don't know the exact name of the part that failed, but it was some sort of acceleration pedal "link" that was faulty from the factory (or so the tech said). It caused the car to have 1/4 of its usual power and could not be driven faster than 30 mph.
noticed growling/rattling/grinding sound coming from engine compartment. got louder over a few weeks. took to the repair shop. they say transaxle will have to be removed and will cost at least $1000
noise from engine compartment got louder. after weeks of driving check engine light came on. flexplate rivets had loosened. dropped transmission to replace flexplate. there is a service bulletin on this.
felt like rougher than normal shifting; could not replicate. Problem subsided and is no longer noticeable. Road test only... no charge.
Tranny was making a whining noise in 4th gear and shifting early into 4th going up hills, resulting in loss of power. Dealer found nothing wrong. Symptoms remain unchanged. No faith in dealer any more.
CV joint had unpacked itself, slung all grease. Was making noise. Cleaned and regreased. No issues now. Independant shop looked at same problem and swore it was strut mounts. Dealer proved MUCH value in experience. Nailed it. Happy.
drivers side cv joint needed replacement due to severe vibrations
Transmission would not shift out of first gear. Dash indicator showed D1. D1 is not a valid option. It should be D or 1, but not D1. Once towed to shop, the mechanic was unable to replicate the problem. Suspect bad connector or moisture
Replaced transmission. Needed seals to repair, parts were backordered. Kept car almost 4 weeks, eventually Hyundai said to replace entire transmission instead of waiting for parts to rebuild. $3500 job but still under warranty (except for clutch parts).
Front axle was replaced again. Front axle had been replaced less than a year before by dealer. Very unhappy with dealer. Everytime I take my car to the dealer--they have my car for 2 weeks to a month and the car returns with same problem.
Self-Replaced both driver/passenger cv axles.
left front axle boot was cracked and failing, entire axle replaced
Right boot torn, boot and axle replaced.
Car had boots that were torn, and so the CV joints and axles were replaced.