| 1 | 0 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 4 |
2010 Nissan cube repairs by problem area
Engine (33%)
Transmission and Drivetrain (7%)
Brakes and Traction Control (6%)
Suspension and Steering (12%)
Electrical and Air Conditioning (25%)
Paint, Rust, Leaks, Rattles, and Trim (12%)
Other (5%)
Chart based on 83 repairs.
2010 Nissan cube engine repair cost distribution
$2500+ (0%)
$1000 - $2499 (0%)
$500 - $999 (4%)
$100 - $499 (17%)
< $100 (79%)
Chart based on 24 repair trips. The repair cost chart excludes repairs made under warranty, do-it-yourself repairs, and repair trips that include maintenance.
2010 Nissan cube 4dr Hatch
122-horsepower 1.8L I4 CVT FWD
| 76000 mi US $10 |
Muffler connection to the intermediate pipe rusted and broke. |
| 79000 mi | Exhaust system rusted out. Not covered by Nissan 100,000 warranty so it was taken to a muffler shop where they fixed it for $50. |
| 23000 mi | Service engine soon light on, A sensor needed to be re-programmed. It was a warmup sensor that had a change in specs. |
| 96000 mi US $20 |
Car was showing Service Engine Soon light and code P1421 was revealed. Replaced air filter as troubleshooting step and had the codes cleared. SES light has not come back yet. |
| 98000 mi | Dealer found an oil leak emanating from the timing cover on the engine. Gasket replacement recommended. The job requires replacement of the valve cover gasket and the front main seal, as well, the technician said. Quoted cost of replacement $1,800. No significant oil loss between oil changes at this time -- decided to live with it for a while. |
| 31000 mi | Since car was new, every time tank was filled, fuel gauge indicated 1-2 bars below full. Thought it was normal until reading similar story online. Dealer said a valve was stuck. Replaced entire fuel tank. |
| 83700 mi US $27 |
Rubber bushing of front engine torque rod (mount) was cracked. Replaced with DEA brand part. Very easy to replace, although you need a large wrench to remove the bolts, and should use a torque wrench when tightening the bolts. |
| 101523 mi US $46 |
Rubber bushing of front engine torque rod (mount) and rear torque rod were cracked. Replaced with DEA brand parts. Front engine torque rod had been replaced 15 months earlier but had already cracked again. Dealer had mentioned that the rear torque rod was cracked, but when I replaced it, it appeared fine, with just a very small surface crack, which gave me the impression that they were just trying to encourage an unnecessary repair. Fortunately it was just a $19 part that I replaced my self. |
| 104695 mi US $10 |
Check engine light came on intermittently, engine running rough. Scan code P0304 - #4 cylinder misfire. Fortunately, #4 coil is accessible with some difficulty, unlike #1-3 (which are located UNDERNEATH the intake manifold, if you can believe that.) I removed the coil and noticed evidence of arcing through the spark plug boot. But I couldn't swap parts with the other cylinders to confirm that, so I just bought a replacement boot and tried it. Luckily, that solved the problem. |
| 134000 mi US $25 |
Replaced rear engine torque strut mount with DEA A4318. Second replacement. |
| 138000 mi US $150 |
Engine idle was very rough. #4 coil was completely broken, with burned/disintegrated parts. Replaced #2, 3, and 4 coils since I had to remove the intake manifold in order to reach #4. #1 had been replaced earlier and was still OK. Replaced PCV valve since it was passing a lot of oil vapor and seemed broken. Replaced intake manifold gasket. Cleaned throttle body. Checked MAF but it was extremely clean. Replaced air filter. |
| 22700 mi | Dropped it at my dealers night drop on the way home from work. I was called the next day and told I needed a new engine...11 months and 24,000 miles since new. The short block was replaced. All that was mentioned was a low end noise. |
| 37000 mi | Idle needed to be "re-learned". During A/C operation, at a traffic light, car in drive, held by service brake...when A/C compressor would engage, engine revs would drop to the point of almost stalling before the computer would recover idle |
| 62620 mi C $79 |
Poor heat in cabin. CVT has two thermostats dealer wanted close to 300 for labour DIY. |
| 15500 mi | Service Engine Soon light came on. Dealer updated software and light went off. |
| 84020 mi C $630 |
The flange connecting to the muffler rusted out, resulting in a hole and a very loud exhaust. There was no off-brand replacement muffler available through any suppliers, so my mechanic had to buy an OEM one from Nissan, hence the $630. |
| 1000 mi | CEL Codes P0455 and P0456 Problems filling gas, pump would stop repeatedly and could not fill to full line. Entire Gas Tank and fuel pump was replaced at only 660 miles. |
| 36500 mi | "Service Engine Soon" light came on at about 35k miles. |
| 169000 mi US $40 |
Exhaust pipe separated from engine side of muffler because of rust. Repair required only a 20-minute weld job. |
| 204000 mi US $125 |
Catalytic Converter (Emissions) Code... local shop "pressure cleaned" system from engine to exhaust pipe... reset code... no more problems! |
| 207000 mi US $150 |
Catalytic Converter Code returned and was reset several more times... finally tried OTC "Cataclean..." it seems to have worked (he says cautiously). |
2010 Nissan cube 4dr Hatch
122-horsepower 1.8L I4 6-speed manual FWD
| 33200 mi US $300 |
Oxygen sensors, both pre and post catalytic converter |
| 80000 mi | Catalytic converter replaced under warranty |
| 8000 mi | Accelerator pedal went totally dead. OBD II code P2138 which has to do with the "Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch". Installed new accelerator pedal the following week. No further issues. After approximately 2500 miles, the fuel gauge stopped reading full. Very first line of gauge never lit. Fuel sending unit was replaced the following week. Very same day after repair, gauge still does not go to "Full" just like before. Went to replace fuel sending unit again. All three sending units measured correctly when hooked up to a digital multimeter. Installed in car, a different story. Fuel gauge STILL does not read full. No one knows anything, even Nissan Tech. Had new wheels installed at dealership shortly after purchase of car. Nissan mechanic snapped off one of the sensors and replaced it with a new one. Ever since, once or twice a week, the TPS (Tire Pressure Sensor) light keeps popping on. |
See TrueDelta's information for all Hatchbacks
See TrueDelta's information for all Nissan models.
