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Chart based on 47 repair trips. The repair cost chart excludes repairs made under warranty, do-it-yourself repairs, and repair trips that include maintenance.
Fuel smell from rear of car. Fuel pump seal replaced.
2000 mi
Fuel smell after filling gas tank followed by OBDII Codes for evaporative pollution control small leak and then large leak. Problem was a bad seal between the in-tank fuel pump and fuel tank, which was back-ordered and not available from Acura's warehouse. Dealer found a seal at another dealership. This is a know problem under
TSB Number: B-PAS-03292016-9 and NHTSA Number: 10099433
16430 mi
Vehicle has been to the dealer 8 times since Feb/2018 to try and fix vibration issue. Vehicle has the v6 engine with the Variable Cylinder Management system. Vibration seems to start when engine goes from 6 cylinders operating to 3. Traveling ar highway speeds between 105-115km/hr it is constant and quite noticeable. The latest fix was replacing the tires as they thought they were the issue,that didn't help. Booked back into the shop July 19 and they suggested possible engine mounts, shaft or shaft bearings. It appears that this is an issue with a number of Honda vehicles with the v6 with the VCM system.
Oil and filter change from non-dealer repair facility caused engine malfunctioning with loss of power. Dealer changed filter and oil to genuine Acura which fixed the problem.
Check emission control system light lit when gas level below one-fourth tank. Light went off shortly after gas fill. OBD reader showed codes P0497 and P145c. Replaced purge valve solenoid and problem fixed.
69000 mi
US $1150
Just purchased the car and had the timing belt replaced because it was older than 7 years. The timing belts on these cars are not very wide and are prone to premature breakage. I plan to replace it every 70k or 7 years from now on so I do not have to encounter a broken timing belt, which is no fun. Had the water pump and engine seals replaced at he same time.
57800 mi
US $187
Engine started running very rough, check engine light came on. Took to nearest dealer who cleaned fuel injectors and other parts, and gas tank.
Check Engine Emission Control Light. Loose Gas Cap continual problem
58280 mi
C $1100
timing chain
13640 mi
Fuel filler cap sensor went off (sensor is bad, but Honda/Acura say to ignore it).
102300 mi
C $800
Coolant leaking,replaced radiator
26800 mi
The valve cover gasket was leaking oil. Gasket was replaced.
23300 mi
Acura dealer did full testing on the car to try to find the cause of the excess vibration at idle. Shop manage did agree that there was an excess vibration and ordered the tests. They could not find the cause of the excess vibration.
Loose gas cap light, check engine light on. Replaced gas cap Light stayed on so took it to a independent shop and he turned the lights off.
37000 mi
About 2,000 miles later the engine light came back on. I then took it to a dealer he updated the computor and turned the lights off. After about 100 miles the lights came back on. Vacuum leak created check emissions and check engine light. Returned it to the dealer he did a smoke test found a hole in gas filler pipe return? he replaced the whole pipe assembly
23000 mi
Car continues to rattle like it has something in its throat. Acura corporate said they are aware of the problem and are working on a fix. That was 2 years ago. Still no fix. Very annoying to have car constantly vibrate and rattle.
Turbo is blown - very expensive to replace. Trade car in. Long ordeal.
80000 mi
US $9000
So after having this car for almost a year and driving it a little under 20,000 miles since purchasing this car used from a Honda dealership here in Raleigh NC (Leith Honda) I experienced the AWD system shutting off and the check engine light coming on upon accelerating. It would still drive in front wheel (2 wheel drive mode). I didn’t think much of it after all the lights in the dash went away after turning off the car then starting it back up. It got progressively more frequent and eventually stayed on all the time. I took it invto the dealership (at under 80,000 miles) and was told that “the turbocharger has gone bad and I needed to replace it”. I asked if they could repair the turbo without replacing it, and I was told it would end up being just as expensive, and that it would not guarantee to fix the problem. So I went to get a second (mom & pop shop) and third (another dealership) opinion before coming to the conclusion that this turbo was going to need to be replaced. I Kelly blue booked the vehicle to find it was worth $9,000 at best. The last place I took it to (Performance Acura in Durham NC) said I would need a new steering column bearings or something like that, which would have put me over the $9,000 that the car was worth. So I decided that it was no longer worth keeping a HONDA vehicle that was just shy of 80,000 miles and had driven it almost 1 full year. I was furious.... So I traded it in for an American Diesel truck. Lesson learned: don’t buy a Honda with a turbo in it. It will be a disappointment! So after having this car for almost a year and driving it a little under 20,000 miles since purchasing this car used from a Honda dealership here in Raleigh NC (Leith Honda) I experienced the AWD system shutting off and the check engine light coming on upon accelerating. It would still drive in front wheel (2 wheel drive mode). I didn’t think much of it after all the lights in the dash went away after turning off the car then starting it back up. It got progressively more frequent and eventually stayed on all the time. I took it invto the dealership (at under 80,000 miles) and was told that “the turbocharger has gone bad and I needed to replace it”. I asked if they could repair the turbo without replacing it, and I was told it would end up being just as expensive, and that it would not guarantee to fix the problem. So I went to get a second (mom & pop shop) and third (another dealership) opinion before coming to the conclusion that this turbo was going to need to be replaced. I Kelly blue booked the vehicle to find it was worth $9,000 at best. The last place I took it to (Performance Acura in Durham NC) said I would need a new steering column bearings or something like that, which would have put me over the $9,000 that the car was worth. So I decided that it was no longer worth keeping a HONDA vehicle that was just shy of 80,000 miles and had driven it almost 1 full year. I was furious.... So I traded it in for an American Diesel truck. Lesson learned: don’t buy a Honda with a turbo in it. It will be a disappointment! So after having this car for almost a year and driving it a little under 20,000 miles since purchasing this car used from a Honda dealership here in Raleigh NC (Leith Honda) I experienced the AWD system shutting off and the check engine light coming on upon accelerating. It would still drive in front wheel (2 wheel drive mode). I didn’t think much of it after all the lights in the dash went away after turning off the car then starting it back up. It got progressively more frequent and eventually stayed on all the time. I took it invto the dealership (at under 80,000 miles) and was told that “the turbocharger has gone bad and I needed to replace it”. I asked if they could repair the turbo without replacing it, and I was told it would end up being just as expensive, and that it would not guarantee to fix the problem. So I went to get a second (mom & pop shop) and third (another dealership) opinion before coming to the conclusion that this turbo was going to need to be replaced. I Kelly blue booked the vehicle to find it was worth $9,000 at best. The last place I took it to (Performance Acura in Durham NC) said I would need a new steering column bearings or something like that, which would have put me over the $9,000 that the car was worth. So I decided that it was no longer worth keeping a HONDA vehicle that was just shy of 80,000 miles and had driven it almost 1 full year. I was furious.... So I traded it in for an American Diesel truck. Lesson learned: don’t buy a Honda with a turbo in it. It will be a disappointment!
Hissing sound from lower radiator area after engine is up to temp. Coolant smell in cabin.
22000 mi
Car will stutter on occasion (2-3 times per year) when under heavy acceleration load. Loses power momentarily with banging noise then catches with jerking sensation. Dealer unable to replicate, no engine codes, always run 93 octane + mobil1
Overheating suddenly. Took it into dealership. Diagnostics and testing done. Could not find problem. Told to drive it for a couple of weeks and bring it back. Overheating the next day. Took it back. Now I need a new engine for $10,000.
80000 mi
US $4000
Turbo went out at 80,000 took a long time to diagnose Turbo went out at 80,000 took a long time to diagnose
100000 mi
US $100
Vaccum hose bad
78000 mi
US $1100
Transmission oil cooler located in the radiator leaked, transmission fluid entered cooling system, turning into a mayonnaise like substance. Replaced radiator, flushed all fluids, will require further flushes over next 12 months.
240000 mi
US $55
Knock Sensor went bad, causing the Check Emission System alarm. Speed sensing sensor has a short.
106020 mi
C $50
exhaust heat shield
49400 mi
Turbocharger was leaking and replaced under about-to-expire warranty. Service guy said he'd never seen this.
backfired twice while on the throttle.Dealer could not find problem.
6000 mi
The RDX backfires at low rpm as your giving it less then full throttle.This happens only after it has been sitting for a while.I can`t make it happen at will and neither can the dealer. There is a loud noise and I lose power for a few seconds.
7000 mi
Backfiring problem again; dealer can't replicate.
9000 mi
Backfiring problem again; dealer can't replicate.
10000 mi
US $130
RDX has been intermitently been back-firing since I bought the suv. I can't make it happen at will and neither can the dealer. It's happened 12 times. They say they can`t fix what they can`t duplicate. I do not believe this has only been happening to mine