Chart based on 236 repair trips. The repair cost chart excludes repairs made under warranty, do-it-yourself repairs, and repair trips that include maintenance.
2016 Honda Fit 4dr Hatch
130-horsepower 1.5L I4 7-speed shiftable CVT FWD
The main screen for all of the cars functions is impossible to work with. That is the ONLY thing that needs to be changed. The car is bullet proof and I'd buy another one in a heart beat. It just irritates the be-jesus out of me. Whenever the time change happens, I have to drop into the dealership to have them reset.
tire pressure warning light came on. dealer re-set the light. it has stayed off for the past month since it was reset.
Tire pressure light came on. Again. Found a reset button on the lower dash and re-set it.
Check tire pressure light came on again and tires do not need air. Have not taken it in yet to have it shut off. This is the second time it's come on for no reason.
battery needed replacing
The car would not turn over. Called for Honda roadside assistance and they got it started with jumper cables.
Blower not blowing very hard.
Dead battery had to be replaced
Car would intermittently not start. When Start/Stop button was pushed nothing would happen. It was diagnosed as a bad starter. Replacement starter had to be ordered. Car was in the shop overnight and fixed the next day. No problems since repair.
Repair costs were covered under original manufacturer's warranty.
Cameras were having problems intermittently. They replaced the audio unit, took about 4 hours. Honda America oversaw getting this taken care of. They were really helpful.
AC didn't feel cold enough,checked by dealer who said the discharge temp was 43 degrees,still isn't cold enough. Heated seats barely warm,no difference between high and low setting,drivers seat must be on for passanger seat to work at all.
Second time for heated seats not getting warm enough. they removed the seats and checked all of the connections. The seats still aren't nearly as warm as my smart car.
Keyless entry quit working. Replaced CPU and Fuse Box. Car wouldn't start. Replaced alternator and battery.
The voltage regulator on the battery harness had to be replaced as the charging voltage was varying from 10v - 14.3v and therefore not charging the battery properly. Leaving the ignition on (no lights) would cause battery to go <10v in 2 mn
Due to the voltage regulator not working the battery got fried so they had to give me a brand new NON Honda battery - hopefully this will be better.
Battery replaced under warranty.
A/C line broken and had to be replaced and system recharged.
Had CHECK CHARGE SYSTEM message appear on dash with multiple lights. Alternator failure at 50k.
Cable behind AC climate control knob became detached
Battery would not charge. Battery sensor broken and battery had bad cell.
A/C was not blowing cold on a road trip. Pulled in a AutoZone and bought a can of 134 with the adapter and hose. It took about 20 minutes to buy and install and we was back on the road. Two weeks later it is still working fine.
starting motor faulty-solenoid worked but motor would not turn-motor replaced
Driver's front orange marker bulb was out.
Dealer says they replaced the bulb and tested it. When I checked at night, the light wasn't working. Dealer says I might have an electrical short. I will change bulb to confirm if a short exists.
Marker light on front left side was replaced during my annual emissions inspection. Honda previously claimed to have changed the bulb w/oil change, and when bulb still didn't light, Honda claimed a short. Current light is working fine!
No ac cooling.
Tire pressure gadge in two tires needed to be replaced.
The low air pressure light keeps coming on yet the tyres are at the right level.
Condenser is unprotected d and susceptible to damage. Lost charge. Replaced condenser, dryer, and dryer media. It replaced all parts and got it recharged.
AC not functional upon purchase. dealership agreed to fix. Recharge worked for 24 hours only. Brought car back to dealer, twice. Second time, had to leave car in shop for 3 days. Evaporator was leaking frion and had to be replaced.
Cruise control: Main cruise light engages, but cruise control only works about 50% of the time. Unrelated to speed or vehicle conditions. Dealer could not replicate issue, so no repair was done.
Cruise control: Dealer replicated problem, determined Cruise Control Clutch switch (Steering wheel controls) are broken. $250 parts, $300 labor to replace.
Steering wheel cruise control and audio switches replaced, because cruise switch failed. Repair not completed.
Replaced aging battery before winter- it had died twice
Replaced the factory battery after 6 years...not bad
The AC compressor was making a wretched grinding sound, yet the AC/Defrost still worked fine. I had the compressor replaced because the noise was bothering me.
Very little airflow w/AC on full. Shop said no problem, but it worked better after they did whatever they did.
Replaced fan and resistor motor as it had quit working
The air vent switch between recirculate or fresh air would occasionally get stuck so that switching to recirculate was not possible. The problem only occurred intermittently and the dealer was unable to reproduce
Wasn't cooling as well as it used to. Temperature of air from a/c vents too high. Mechanic diagnosed & recharged.
Fan stopped working on levels 1-3. Took to dealership where purchased and was told they needed to order part, had to return to have the part installed 2 days later.
All speakers briefly stopped working. Speakers began working again on their own, dealer only found a missing fuse clip, which they said they ordered but I have not received word that the part has arrived yet.
Fan worked only on "high" setting. switch or resistor replaced.
Car failed to start. Took it in and they said the battery read a little lower then it should, so the battery was replaced.
Battery replaced after failing to start in cold temps. 2nd replacement battery, 3rd overall.
Car would not start, had to have it jumped multiple days in a row. Dealer advised I drive 15-20 miles every day to keep the battery charged. There is a small battery without room for anything bigger, so an aftermarket battery is not possible.
Blower motor and resistor needed replacing. Air & heat only worked on highest setting. Since it is a known problem I contacted Honda of America and they paid for the labor cost.
Head lights (low beam) needed adjustments. After "adjustment" problem was worse.
Speed resistor for HVAC blower burned out.
Failure of AC compressor feild coil.
BRIEFLY. intermittent AC (Hot then cold no consistency) hitting switch over and over worked for a few months. Crown Honda insisted it was low on freon and full of water. i rejected that and found a faulty compressor clutch relay Behind drivers side headlight (small black box) cleaned relay prongs....works fine.
Heater fan would only work on high. Fan replaced per TSB.
Recharge and also dealer broke some kind of screw during the procedure.
TPS light - Tire pressure light was not calibrated correctly at purchase. Had to go back and have them correct it.
AC fan not working
ac fan not working
Ac fan not working
Headlights flicker when radiator fan or ac compressor turns on.
TPMS malfunction. Can only be repaired by Honda, who charges to look at it. Could cost between $200 to over $1000. Only tells me when tire pressure is low. Not repaired.
Indicator light replaced
AC/Heater blower worked on high speed only. Blower motor may have been defective (see TSB). Replaced Blower motor and resistor.
The OEM Shock Alarm I had added when I got the car was triggering all the time and is currently disabled.
The dealer admitted the problem and is unable to fix it at the dealership. They have made arrangements to have the problem serviced at the alarm sy
tire pressure sensor not detected by computer
Diode on AC fan failed. Stuck on high speed. Fan Motor replaced.
A/C was freezing up and losing airflow. Private mechanic recharged the A/C and it has been fine since. No detectable leaks.
A/C worked for a few hours on trip but starting blowing hot air. Looked like the relay switch was getting warm and cutting off the ac. Relay switch was replaced under warranty.
New compressor, recharge
Rear hatch handle was broken causing the alarm to go off unexpectedly at various intervals
Tpms light stayed on.
AC didn't work when I bought the car used; the dealership replaced the switch and compressor and recharged it and now it works.
TPMS battery failure caused TPMS light to illuminate.
a/c switch has short - not repaired as they could not reproduce.
a/c switch had a short in it -- causing it to go off and on.
A pretty minor problem I had with the fuel economy gauge overstating MPG averages 10-20%. This is common, I think, with 2009 Fits and there is a TSB that addresses it.
The battery went dead and was replaced under warranty.
The battery went bad for the 2nd time in less than 27000 miles.
The A/C Evaporator had a premature failure and had to be replaced. The warranty had expired. The cost was $489.95 Evaporator $19.95 Freon $9.50 Leak Dye $288.00 Labor ----------- Total Parts $519.40 Total Labor $288.00 The A/C Evaporator had a premature failure and had to be replaced. The warranty had expired. The cost was
$9.50 Leak Dye
Total Parts $519.40
Total Labor $288.00
Grand Total $807.40
Battery died and would not hold a charge. This was the original factory battery.
I had the software update done on the mpg monitor... which made the monitor more accurate.
Stuck A/C button.
Weak A/C cooling noticed. Freon measured .3 lbs low. Honda dealer refilled the system with Freon/dye mix. Been nice and cool since then.
Cycling compressor during the hottest part of the day. Reduced cooling from AC during these times.
My A/C blower motor stopped working all together. I replaced the blower motor resistor and the blower fan.
AC blower motor quit. I replaced it.
Tire pressure monitoring system was acting up with tires at capacity.
A/C was kicking out warm air intermittently
blower only works in high, fuseable resistor replaced, might have replaced the blower motor blower only works in high, fuseable resistor replaced, might have replaced the blower motor. second time, about a month after the original repair.
blower needed replaced again due to blower motor fuse going out
on long trips the ac would stop working, thought the evap was freezing, it was due to low refridgerent
heater/AC only blew on high. Blower motor and resistor replaced. Car out of warranty, but replaced at no charge.
The A/C is not working properly. After 40 minutes of driving it doesnt cool at all. The dealer couldnt replicated the problem but added coolant. Car still not cooling well. The weather is cool now so cant replicate problem at this time.
Rear right power window motor assembly failed.
Did not replace. Still disfunctional.
One headlight and one foglight
AC was not functioning properly. Mechanic found R134a low. Recharged and will monitor.
TPMS light came on while driving home from the dealership on the day car was purchased. Service department reset TPMS on right front tire.
Blower motor and resistor had to be replaced per tsb.
Blower motor for air conditioner stopped working. Switch and motor replaced.
Back light for the rear window defroster stopped lighting up. Was told to replace the whole switch, not just a bulb. Parts were ordered. Switch was replaced under warranty.
Gone dead four times. Starts with jump but the dealer can not get source of problem. I think it is faulty part in electrical system. Dealer said," "characteristic of short trip driving. Battery is used to start engine but charge never replenished."
The AC button on the dash would intermittently turn itself off. The problem was caused by a faulty AC button, which was replaced under the factory warranty.
Was getting a musty / moldy smell when A/C is on. They sprayed something in the vents to "clean it" but I think it was just to cover it up. They said it was a normal / common issue and that nothing was in need of repair.
A/C would only work with switch held in place. Replaced A/C switch and A/C compressor (additional problem found). Took longer than promised, due to shortage of parts shipped from Japan (at one point was told a month's wait)
Heater blower motor only worked on high. Repaired and reinstalled blower resistor assembly.
Blower motor making screeching/squeaking noise after 10-15 minutes of running. Replaced by dealer under standard warranty.
Excessive compressor cycling and insufficiently cold air. AC charge was tested, no leaks found and only slightly low. Diagnosed as bad compressor and blocked AC condenser.
AC compressor and condenser replaced, system recharged, seems to be working in spec (though too cold to know for certain). Parts were backordered for a month.
TPMS system failure TPMS monitoring system fault - reset under warranty
Door locks were unlocking constantly while driving.
AC blowing warm air. System required a re charge.
Car has an electrical short that has been a chronic problem, and the dealer is unable to permanently fix the issue.
Horn would turn on and not stop. Dome light would not turn off in door mode.
Lost fan speed 1-3. Replaced fan motor and resistor pack
Aux input to stereo fixed
A/C started to fail on an extended road trip. Pearson Honda of Richmond VA recommended flush/recharge of entire A/C system. Successful. Repair took ~2 hours.
Battery died; tested ~20% of rated capacity. Replaced with 450 CCA battery
ac blower only works on high speed. Needs resister and motor. Not in stock.
Ordered ac blower motor and resister parts installed.
Blower motor became loud. Replaced with a salvage unit from eBay and took my shop half an hour labor.
Replaced blower motor and resistor under Honda TSB. Replaced faulty stereo.
The HVAC motor stopped working in speeds 1 and 2. Only speed 3 worked.
A/C compressor clutch had seized up, replaced the clutch only.
Replaced serpentine belt and tensioner pulley as wear items at same time.
Total A/C system replacement. Some parts covered under warranty from previous repair Lost fan speeds 1-3. I installed a new resistor. A/C compressor failed. At the time of the failure I had the option of waiting 1 month for an OEM part or getting a NAPA compressor installed immediately. It was July in Arizona so I chose to have the NAPA part installed.
Condenser was found to be punctured by a road hazard (debris). Condenser was replaced and system recharged.
Window motor failed.
Blower fan became unreliable. Replaced blower motor and resistor.
Flashed computer to fix MPG on dash display consistently overstating MPG achieved by 7 - 10% compared to old fashioned miles driven/gallons pumped.
mpg avg on gauge was off by abount 12.8% - reflashed ecm to get gauge closer to calculated mpg
HVAC blower motor and resistor needed replacement as HVAC would not blow in speeds 1-3, only 4.
Coolant in air conditioning system leaked out. Recharged system without repairing/addressing leak.
Fan speed control resistor failed. Honda had a published TSB 09-097 for this, but the dealer refused to honor it. Fan blows resistor, so it too requires replacement.
Replaced resistor and fan myself, with wholesale parts.
A/C didn't work. There was no fluid. Replaced fluid without finding the leak.
AC fluid was mysteriously low.
Battery failed. Replaced.
A/C was getting weaker, so had dealer do a leak check. No leaks found but refrigerant was 50% low. Recharged and A/C is better now.
Damaged tire pressure sensor when replacing damaged tire. Appparently the replaced sensor was faulty.
It took 2 more trips before the dealer replaced the faulty TPMS sensor. No charge to me other than the original cost of the tire.
AC/Fan only worked on highest setting. Diagnosed by owner as blown motor blower resistor, confirmed by shop. Part ordered that day. Billed to extended warranty provider.
return trip to install new motor blower resistor
reflash of the computer to correct the mileage calculation
Air conditioner recharge
Blower motor and resistor replacement done at home. Blower would only run on high (common issue)
Bearing on A/C compressor went out. Parts online cost $175 for compressor and serpentine belt. Paid small amount of labor to a friend who is a trustworthy mechanic. Have seen where this repaid normally costs upward of $1500 at the dealer.
Rear wiper stuck, had to replace complete rear wiper assembly.
Had to recharge AC since it was pushing warm air. I suppose this is normal for a near 200K Km car.
HVAC blower stopped working at all speeds except MAX. Had to replace blower motor and resolder speed selection resistor. Bought part on Amazon at a reasonable price
air conditioner cuts out after approximately 40 minutes of driving. will not come back on until after 15 minutes of turning off.
Problem with the driver door electronic lock actuator not always engaging/disengaging. Dealer repaired/replaced lock actuator.
Needed a new battery at 40K
Mileage computer inaccurate. Reprogrammed per service technical bulletin. Will take some time to verify accuracy.
AC compressor failed and needed to be replaced.
Alternator on fritz,battery had been weak for 6 months. Replaced both with new myself. Note: Honda wanted $1050 for a new alternator. Bought this one instead from an aftermarket supplier. Battery: $120(Napa) Alternator: $370. Tax incl.
Burned out blower motor resistor
Hypersenstive alarm, car sold without fixing it.
Very slow starting in cold weather. Battery showed only 60% capacity when tested. Replaced battery.
Measured gas mileage consistently 10-12% lower than my 2009 Honda Fit reported. Dealer used Honda TSB 09-086 to update the "PGM-FI" software. Now reading is very accurate.
Drivers side headlight bulb (lost high beam, DRL).
HVAC blower motor and blower motor resistor failed and had to be replaced. This must be a common problem; there's a bulletin for the issue. Car just went out of warranty to it was 100% customer pay.
Battery went dead would not take a charge. Honda OEM dealer replacement battery was cheaper than Autozone and had better warranty. Battery replaced by Honda dealer.
TPMS light came one and stayed on. Dealer changed two in the tire pressure sensors, this corrected the problem. Car had extended warranty no cost.
TPMS light stayed on for several days. Dealer found the sensor was bad and replaced the sensor.
Dome light switch faulty
Battery died and replaced with a group 51R battery, which almost fit the battery tray. I trimmed the left side of the tray and removed the battery cover. This battery has better crank amps and costs way less than the OEM Honda battery.
Air conditioning needed recharging and a/c relay needed replacement
Right headlight blew. Replaced both.
BOTH headlights blew on low beam. High beams still worked.
Passenger side low beam lamp replacement
Right front headlamp replaced AGAIN for low beam.
Alternator stopped charging the battery. Bought a new alternator and installed myself.
Car failed to start. Diagnosis indicated battery could be bad. Replaced with a new one and solved problem
Intermittant TPMS light. Dealer checked tire pressure and adjusted same. Problem did not recur.
Passenger Airbag Recall performed.
Driver window will stop at three places when using the auto-down feature. Sometimes will not roll back up and will cause a grinding noise.
Driver window would sometimes get stuck. Dealer replaced window switches. Everything Ok.
AC button would not turn off system - button replaced.
12v power supply burnt out during use. New socket was ordered.
Replacement 12v socket was installed. It works.
A recall for the replacement of something that affects low-beam headlights--before recall, low beams could suddenly stop lighting. Recall fixed problem.
Button 4 on the radio presets didn't respond when the car was cold, or would erroneously trigger the audio settings function.
Air bag dash light on, intermittantly at first, then solid after a few days. Problem was a loose connection, Warranty repair. Cost listed was for 32,000 mile servicing.
Replaced passenger air bag sensor under warranty ($700 part)
Nonfunctioning window motor
Air conditioner condenser was damaged by a rock, dealer refused to fix under warranty. Estimate was $800--I have ordered a new condenser for $260 and will have it installed at an independent shop for $200.
Button turning on AC stuck down ("on") so that AC is on whenever fan is on. Honda wanted $95 to "diagnose" the problem, and I declined to have them do that.
AC was not blowing cold enough
The headlight wiring harness recall that was performed on the car 3yrs ago was not performed correctly. The shop had to reinstall the wiring harness repair.
CD stuck in factory head unit. Will not play or eject. Radio and Bluetooth work fine.
wire to harness for back up lights broke. repaired wire by soldering and shrink wrap repair area.
Replaced both headlight bulbs
low air pressure sensor battery died. no way to replace just the battery. dealer replaced right rear sensor. problem fixed. fresh air vent stuck in closed position. mechanic lubed it, which fixed the problem. mechanic said blower housing was cracked, ordered a new one. Installed new blower housing.
TPMS warning. Checked tire pressures - within spec.
Added 2 psi per tire. 10 miles later, TPMS warning light went out.
NUMBER 4 IGNITION COIL STOPPED WORKING AFTER SOME HESITATION (MIS FIRES) OVER SEVERAL WEEKS. WAS REPLACED WITN NEW OME ONE AS A PRECAUTION,PURCHESED NON-OME ON INTERBET AT 22$ INSTEAD OF 115.00 PER UNIT.
Replaced blown driver side speaker
lights for the license plate failed because of wiring that was broken
A/C recharge only because the previous recharge was 3/4 years ago. Didn't really notice a problem beforehand but definitely notice since it's been serviced.
Dead cell in battery 35 months old. Replaced partially under warranty.
Fuse blew in instrument & control system rendering many items including ignition and power steering system inoperative.
Replaced fuse. Found top half of heat shield around cat hanging from O2 sensor wires cutting thru insulation causing short
The vehicle still had the original battery after 8 years and the cold weather killed it. Replaced the battery with a new one.
New battery from previous replacement died - faulty cell. Several attempts to charge later, the battery was diagnosed at Advance Auto Repair and replaced under warranty.
power socket shorting out steering wheel out of alignment after previous vist, heater controls broken Fixed power socket that was shorting out. steering wheel alignment fixed and new heater control installed. Dealer damaged the dashboard removing the faceplate
Driver's-side fog light would not turn on.
Plastic tabs that hold the window to the motor have cracked off. Window no longer goes up and down. motor still works.
Dryer in the A/C system was replaced
Auto down feature stopped working. Dealer replaced master switch and window regulator.
Driver's headlight burnt out in the morning. Replaced both headlights to ensure equal life.
cruise control set switch just broke
Check engine light had come on and a little bit of lag in acceleration when RPM exceeds 4K. Computer diagnostics pointed to issues with starter but they reset engine light and were unable to reproduce issue.
Battery died and needed replacement. CAA does not stock the 151R battery and finding one was very difficult.
Alternator diode pack causing intermittent failure, leading to dead battery / electrical failure. Took a while to diagnose but replaced alternator and now everything working perfectly.
Cruise control stopped working
A problem was noted with the dealer installed block heater (for winter climates) coolant level was low due to leakage at soft plug installation area. Repair was paid for by selling dealer.
Electric would cut out briefly, especially if running the a/c. Found to be the alternator dropping voltage. This had been happening for a couple years at least.
Update: There is a fuse at the battery terminal held in place by a couple of nuts. I discovered one of these to be missing and the other loose shortly after this repair. I secured it in place better than it had been. The car has not dropped its voltage since then, but there is no way to tell if it was the alternator or my small repair. I do strongly suspect it was my repair and I unnecessarily spent a couple hundred dollars, though.
Car was having trouble starting, so i figured it was 5 years old and decided to have the battery tested, it failed. Replacing original battery for the first time. 5 years on battery life is to be expected
door lock not functioning - fixed. acquired new key
Alternator acting up. low beams quit.
driver window switch recall. auto-down hadn't been working well. knew switch recall was coming, so waited to have it fixed.
battery died test showed shorted cell