Engine will hesitate every few days. Press on gas, engine does not accel, just does not go. Engine ck light does not come on. Release gas, press again, engine is then OK. Also door air leak, cruise control works intermittently.
Sensor in throttle body failed putting car in Limp Mode. Entire throttle body had to be replaced.
Engine cut out twice at low speeds. No codes. Not sure why. ECM software was updated per TSB. Problem has not occurred since. Mileage also seems to have improved.
The Car had blown a turbo hose when pressing the acclerator down on the highway during an overtake. When we stopped the hose outer shell had blown and we had to tape it up until we could get another hose.
Throttle was hitting a dead spot and would almost stop when accelerating from stop or hard from slow Speed. Dealer said it was a recall, which I never got! Updated software and cleaned carbon out of throttle body and hopefully intake manifold.
replacing a ground wire because vehicule won't start
Oil pressure sensor replaced.
Yellow engine light fixed by replacing the o2 senor under warranty.
Timing chain cover reseal. Leak noticed by dealer during an oil change.
Oil light coming on. Oil pressure sensor replaced.
3rd time for same problem—jerky movement in lower gears, under 25 felt like someone hitting car from behind. No mechanical problem found, but after "lots of test driving" they replicated. Software update seems to have fixed problem, for now at least.
My Santa Fe was in the shop for one day to adjust the transmission which was shifting in to high gear to fast causing the vehicle to buck.
Engine would stall for 3 to 4 seconds when starting from a complete stop.
The stalling problem never was resolved...the problem seemed to be that it did not do it on a constant basis and they claimed they could never get it to do it.
The common radiator pinhole/seam leak on the
Santa Fe radiator, noticed small coolant loss at overflow tank, slight green stain on radiator. Radiator replaced under warrantee
Car stalled at low speed in city driving. Towed to dealer where no fault codes or history were found. Car was driven home and problem has not resurfaced.
Radiator sprung leak at top right corner, occasionally spurting coolant onto engine cover. Radiator is not losing excessive amounts of coolant, however. Part ordered; covered under warranty.
Radiator was replaced, stopping the leak.
car overheated. something needed tightening or replacing to radiator
noticed radiator fluid leaking into ground when car parked
loose heat shield, rubbing noise when coasting
known problem with harsh/abrupt shifting with 6 speed auto tran. TSB' have not fixed the problem, as of yet. fix(TSB}does not solve the problem ( only temporary).
Transmission surges, throttle issues and extreme thuds when shifting in slow situations. Software update (TSB). Some improvement, but not completely rectified
Recurring problem with transmission clanging into 2nd gear during slow acceleration. Diagnostics done, repair not succesful.
Replaced timing chain cover
Vehicle would not start on all occasions. When ignition would not catch, it would take multiple attempts, but it always started. Waiting for situation to happen again at which time I will return to dealer.
Starting issue as previously reported. Dealer thinks it is a faulty immobilizer antennae and ordered part. Awaiting installation.
Installed new antennae, didn't work. Ordered a wiring harness to see if it might do the trick. I decided to cut my losses and got rid of the car.
updated the transition software
transmission software update
VERY loud tapping noise at startup. Goes away after 3 seconds. This will re-occur after being off after 3 hours. Either rod bearing noise or lifter noise as oil apparently drains down. Dealer changed oil & filter, could not replicate.
Loud tapping in engine with cold startup. Factory rep to listen in October. Noise very minimal in colder weather. Will take back next year in warm weather
TSB stated that 1-2 and 2-3 shift points erratic when cold
Turn key engine cranks, catches, stalls
Ongoing problem with engine immobilizer system
Dealer will claim "could not duplicate"
Keys have been replaced, problem persists... Intermittent, Turn key, engine turns over but does not start. Ongoing engine immobilizer malfunction. Dealer will not repair problem.
Vehicle motor would turn over but would not start until third try.This happened irregularly. Same issue after they replaced immobilizer system.
Idler belt adjuster
Cvt failing Hyundai paid for everything. Was past warranty by 3 months.
Replace electric cooling fan. Expected time 1 hr.Real time 2 hrs.
Hard to start on occasion but getting worse.The antenna circut was changed for the immobilizer. Starting 100% better.But to get this appointment done,phoned Hyundai Canada.They talked to dealer and had me in at dealer within 2 days.
Check Engine light on,diagnosed as intake gaskets leaking.Parts ordered,parts in 2 weeks later. Appointment made and 1 day to fix.
Noise coming from engine belt tensioner (Noisy bearing).
Problem with transmission not catching when changing gears going from gear down to gear up. Feels like it is slipping and then catches and "clunks" when it goes into gear.
Vehicle had intermittant no start problems. Disconnected command start - 2 1/2 weeks without problem. Did a transmission update for slipping and after 2 1/2 weeks no problems.
Oil leak from weep hole at engine/tranny interface. Dealer reported leak from oil pressure switch.
Oil pressure sensor leak; replaced oil pressure sensor for the second time.
Vehicle accelerated after came to a stop. This occurred in -40C temps. The service personnel in two dealership service shops have not been able to recreate the incident inspite of extended attempts to do the same. Hyunda Can involved.
The car would not start and was towed to the dealership. The dealer replaced a starter switch.
Engine light was on. Dealer diagnosed as an oxygen sensor. Dealer replaced under warrantly
Oil leak from a seal above oilpan, Originally thought to be a pan leak.
Reported an issue where, while driving, after releasing the gas pedal to allow the car to coast, the engine/throttle surges about three seconds after releases. Since there was no code, the shop didn't treat the issue.
Replaced throttle position sensor
Fuel nozzle must be held at angle to allow fuel to fill. Cannot get fuel nozzle to auto fill.
Vehicle had stalled several times in last six months.
bad throttle position sensor found and replaced. Had been earlier for issue while under warranty but Hyundai failed to cover. Bad Hyundai
Dealer had a TSB to check oxgen sensor for this vehicle. They had to remove it to test sensor and found no problem with it. Had taken vehicle in to change oil as a precaution to eliminate any manufacturing metal chips that might still be in the oil.
Check engine light always on. Hyundai Santa Fe dealer first replaced sensors. Problem was resolved for less than twenty minutes. Light when back on while driving car home. Fuel pump replaced second and the problem was resolved.
Throttle sensor adjusted and ECM patched.
Recall for oil leak.
throttle position sensor shorted caused computer
to go into limp mode (no pwr go only 5 mph)
oil leak noted
vehicle went into limp mode due to fault tpms sensor
Oil leak noted.
Throttle sensor defect. 2bd time for this repair
oil pan gasket leak. 5th time. replaced gasket with silicone
Rough idling in morning. Took it to the dealer and they flush the system but it is still as rough idling as before.
Replaced sensor to repair problem with anti-skid system. The 'off' light came on at random times.
Fuel tank vent blockage. replaced canister and reset code, light comes on again. Took CUV to another dealer and removed blockage from vent line. Code reset and no problems thereafter.
new water pump, gaskets, and fuel sensor
Check engine light came on. Brought into Jim Pattison Hyundai and they reflashed the ECU. Could not get them to tell me what the code was. The check engine light was on all the time (not flashing) so it was safe to drive to garage
Multiple oil leaks noticed when replacing wheel bearing, had to schedule second repair trip - valve cover and oil pan
in for mainte. - service found valve covers leaking hosed off motor - picked up vehicle and drove 25 feet cel on - took back they turned cel off - drove home came back on -took back they order parts - install them -cel not go off - call...
replaced o2 sensor - replaced computer - replaced cat converter and yes the problem lasted for about a month before finally being fixed
Fan relay faulty -replaced Both valve cover gaskets leaking ordered parts
Valve cover gaskets installed. cooling fan caused check engine light to come on - bearings in fan shot
Check engine light on. Dielectric grease added to some connections and grounds were snugged up.
Replaced leaking valve cover gasket and oil saturated alternator, recall.
left hand valve cover gasket.
Post catalytic converter oxygen sensor failed
Recall to change leaking valve cover gasket and replace alternator due possible damage due to dripping oil . Also the recall replaced a brake light switch
Alternator was saturated in oil from leaky rocker panel gasket which was also replaced.
Oil leak from upper gaskest.
Vehicle stalling. Oxygen sensor replaced. Problem fixed.
Faulty Oxygen Sensor causing the Engine Light to illuminate. Engine was rough when hot.
check engine light is on, dealer check out and found O2 sensor is bad. had to order sensor
Check engine light came on, scan indicated purge valve, which was replaced
Check Engine light came on while driving. We immediately drove it to the nearest dealer, and they determined an O2 sensor had quit working. Sensor was replaced and problem resolved.
I noticed that the car wouldn't start whenever I filled up with gas, unless I pumped the accelerator when turning the key. Mechanic replaced the purge control valve, and this seems to have solved the problem.
The engine has developed a noticeable knock. It's louder after the motor warms up. I can hear it when I'm driving if the radio is off. The service tech said everything checks out normal. I am not going to give up until it goes away.
Car engine/transmission seems to occassionally hesitate or hiccup at certain times, such as just around the 85kmh mark.
Dealer said they reset adaptive transmission and I should be aggressive when accelerating for the next 3 days afterward
Repaired the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve
Car seemed to hiccup twice when reaching a certain speed linit, around 80 or 90 kph, then gently backing off the accelerator. This time they replaced the entire Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve.
Check Engine light came on day after regular service was done. Error showed problem with Swirl Actuator. Issue rectified next day after several fast accelerations, which is what mechanic advised.
Lost throttle response while driving 50 MPH in traffic and check engine lite came on. Pulled over turned engine off then restarted the car, check engine lite stayed on. Drove to dealership. They replaced the TPS the next day.
Leak from front valve cover on to alternator caused car to stall in freeway left lane. The ECS indicator light and the ABS service reminder indicator light came on then a short while later the engine started losing power. Replaced gasket and alternator.
Throttle Position Sensor failed.
Replaced valve cover gasket
Don't know sensor by name, had to do with oxygen but not an O2 valve. Check engine light out now after replacement.
Recall. Engine valve cover gasket was starting to leak with potential to drip on alternator and ruin it. Since this was caught early no damage was done to the alternator and only the gasket was replaced.
car wont reconize key when going to start/wont turn over. took to dealer multiple times. not a thing is wrong they say. check the computers they all come back ok, finally after 6 months with this issue they say its the tsc sensor?
Scanned No. P300 Checked #08-36-003/cleared code -ok' Dealer on the road said that he would replace the part if he had one in stock. Home dealer said that it "may have been speck in gas." "Return if problem repeats"
Check engine light flashing--engine running rough--lost power. Cause P0300,P0304, P0306. Correction: Cleared codes and checked No 4 and 6 plugs Updated ECM and road test
Check Engine light was on. Dealer will order sensors and repair under warranty.
repalaced fuel level Sensor A 94460ROA .5 N69 C15
Check engine Light indicated p--87 and P--89 replaced intake gasket so far no re-occurrence. Was told to check if that solved the problem then pay the bill.
REPLACED VALVE COVER GASKET
corrosion on upper and lower rad hoses Thermostat corroded leaking timing cover. parts were not available ....repair rescheduled for later in October
broken timing cover replaced
I was told that the knock in the engine would be costly
oil leak from engine leaked onto alternator and caused it to burn out
Engine light came on, automatic tranmission code, likely due to a module
noise from loose exhaust heat shield
Throttle Position Sensor replaced
Faulty Throttle Position sensor
Throttle Position sensor failed - replaced under warranty
P2035 TPS or Throttle Positioniong Sensor replaced and ECU updated
Replaced faulty, leaking oil pressure sensor.
throttle position sensor went bad causing car to go into "limp home" mode repeatedly, nearly stranding me but still allowed me to drive short distances. Dealer picked up car in AM, replaced sensor, and delivered back after lunch fixed.
Engine surging at light throttle. No code. Dealer talked with Hyundai, which recommended replacing throttle position sensor (TPS). Worked.
Had slight oil leak - dealer found it was valve cover gasket. Replaced under warranty.
Oil pan was leaking oil - dealer removed pan, cleaned, and replaced RTV gasket sealant.
Car had surging idle problem when cold. Throttle position sensor was replaced and computer was updated with a flash update.
right rear heat shield loose and making a vibrating noise. Tightened and problem has been resolved. squeaking sound with engine running. rate increased as RPM's increased. Power steering idler pulley replaced.
Throttle position sensor failed. Turned on check engine light. Covered under warranty
The dealer said the error code was the oxygen sensor and that it couldn't be replaced until it read a certain number. Essentially, they reset the code and did nothing about the gas cap. Check engine light came on again after putting fuel in the car. The strap that holds the gas cap caused the cap to come loose. I reseated the cap, but the issue did not go away. I cleaned the gasket. Check engine light went off and has not returned.
Check engine light on and poor gas mileage. The rear bank 1 oxygen sensor was shorted. Replaced and now running normally.
Knock sensor was bad causing Check engine light and retarded timing.
R&R of noisy serpentine idler pulley (bearing noise). Replaced with newer version.
The purge control solenoid valve (PCSV) was replaced.
All spark plugs replaced, one spark coil replaced, Timing and service belts replaced, Transmission serviced, cooling system flushed and serviced, battery replaced, all recalls (airbags) and fuel tank sending units replaced.
Mounting blocks on inter cooler broke and allowed to move about on top of motor.
A low beam Headlight globe and a parker globe were replaced.
Drive belt tensioner broke 50,000km after timing belt was replaced at 120,000 as per book. Water pump was replaced as it was also showing wear apparently. The original clunk problem is still getting worse especially under load.
This car has a persistent oil leak. A local shop and Hyundai both thought it was a valve cover gasket, but apparently it has been a timing cover gasket all along. This repair will cost over $1200.
The (difficult to diagnose) timing cover gasket was finally replaced. The never ending oil leak/burned out alternator problems have been fixed!
Oxygen sensor faulty. Caused the car to run a little rough at times and sometimes "jerky". Installed new oxygen sensor.
gas throttle sensor
Car hard to start and idled rough. Dealer replaced throttle control module.
Fixed rattling heat shield
Oxygen censor had to be replaced.
clunky noise, reposition the shield, seems the problem is solved
engine would not accellerate. diagnosed as due to freezing weather. has not recurred.
Oil filter housing cap sprung a leak. Cap appeared to have had a defect in molding.
Car started then stopped after 30 seconds. Traced fuel injection, found no B+ for fuel injectors. Back tracked to fuse box, switched relays from Air conditioner over to fuel injection. Car started. Ordered new relay from dealer. Took 8 days to arrive.
Check engine light related to evap code
Brought in my 07 SF, was diagnosed with 2 sensors in gas tank to be replaced on warranty, 1 was for check engine light, the 2nd is for gas gauge fluctuation, dealer says its knowledge of hyundai and this is being seen more and more,
check engine light on, due to gas tank sensor and a gage not working
Valve cover gasket oil leak on top of alternator. Valve cover gasket and alternator replaced.
Replace a bad coil (#4)
Left Bank Oxygen Sensor failed.
timing chain tensioner broke. replaced part & several gaskets.
The engine had also started to make noise again.
Oxygen sensor, covered by TSB. Problem discovered with the check engine light. The sensor was replaced and now the mileage has increased and the engine runs smoother.
Alternator replaced due to oil leak from rocker cover
Dealer replaced top valve gasket.
CEL went on again, after one week of having been in the shop.
Dx: Gas tank sensors seemed to be faulty. Parts ordered. Parts for fuel tank sensors replaced. Probably have to go back to the shop. A strong gas smell inside the car. Can feel the smell after car parked for several hours with the windows open.
Oil leak on valve cover damaged alternator. Alternator replaced as well as valve gasket (passenger side of V6 engine).
left valve cover had to be replaced (leaking oil).
Fuel gauge not displaying properly. This is the second attempt at fixing it. So far so good.
Gasket in engine mount worn out causing oil to leak down to the alternator
Same engine mount gasket problem as reported in Sept. Repaired under warranty Throttle position sensor is no longer working. Part replaced
Intermittently wouldn't start. Battery OK.
Mechanic replaced main engine ground.
Electronic Throttle Control light on. Car was stalling when driving--would only go 20mph and did not respond to "revving" engine--not increase in RPM.
Has been listed in TSB.
Noticed slight oil leaking around valve covers - Re & Re engine cover and intake manifold cover gaskets and seals. Replaced spark plugs since access was created.
Leaking oil pan Timing belt cover repair
Engine ran rough-check engine light- ecm upgrade req'd.
Front Valve Cover Gasket Leaking
Gas mileage dropped from 19.7 to 14 mpg. Dealer updated control module firmware & changed sparkplugs for $450.00 which did nothing. On personal reccomendation had private mechanic determine that speed sensor was defective cost $220.00
Oxy sensor replaced
Faulty O2 sensor.
Related to earlier replacement of faulty fuel sensor. Replaced again, but check engine light came back on again 2 days later.
Replaced both fuel pump seals. Sensor showed no leaks, but check engine light came back on several days later.
Removed and replaced right rear exhaust flange. I believe it had started to corrode. The shop simply manufactured a new one and welded it on -- which was cheaper than OEM part.
Corroded rad hose clamp leaking coolant. Replaced clamp.
Engine warning light came on. Diagnosed as failed fuel sensor(s). Sensors replaced. After repair fuel gauge was inaccurate. Went back but they couldn't test because tank was full. Returned with low tank and repair is now OK.
Santa Fe would not start. Battery was fine but engine would not turn over. Would eventually start after a few attempts but with a strong gas smell. This is an intermittent problem that has no predictable circumstance such as cold weather, etc...
Leaking Valve Cover.
Repair bent heat shield
Engine coolant leak top of engine. Replaced thermostat and seal.
Dealer repaired engine oil leak on front of engine.
Replaced seals and gaskets near timing belt cover.
Valve cover gasket
Engine light came on, stopped vehicle immediately and called dealer. Dealer chose to tow vehicle (wasnt necessary), and diagnosed problem as a faulty O2 sensor. Parts were ordered. Parts installed. No further problem.
Replace fuel pump. Failed overnight while sitting in driveway.
Throttle sensor failure - car died on freeway. Towed free by Hyundai roadside asst, dealer fixed in two hours free of charge. Inconvenient, but well handled by Hyundai.
during 30k svc, non dealer tech discovered leaking a/c compressor. Took to dealer for svc, and found leak was actually coming from gasket cover that needed to be replaced. replaced free under warranty
The valve cover gasket (driver's right side) leaked oil onto the alternator which took it out, which left only the battery to operate the vehicle which took the battery out. $1,600 later (entirely at owner's cost), these were all replaced.
Oil leak from Valve cover dripped onto the alternator causing field winding short and alternator stopped charging. Replaced with aftermarket from Discount Auto parts
Check engine light vapor canister purge valve
Lifter noise from the inner bank (firewall). Tried the no-belt and run fix (to determine if it is a water-pump) but problem still persisted. Dealer made an oil-change and gave the car back until the parts arrive!
Lifter noise after an oil change. Usually it starts after 1000-1500 miles after a new oil change. Oil is checked but not missing any, so no fill-up. I am waiting for the noise again to take it back for the repair!
Sensor and "control valve" on intake plenum that were causing the "ticking" noise where defective and replaced under warranty by the dealer.
Sensor placed on the Intake was bad and making a "clicking" noise. Thought it was the lifters, but it want away when warmed up. Second trip, mechanic identified the issue and part was ordered.
Engine pulley was making grinding noices. Was told it is bent and had to be replaced when they locate the right part. Dealer Service rep was very helpful and understanding. Truck now rides like a dream.
Milage is terrible. 15 l/100km in mixed highway city driving. Service rep claimed that if the computer analysis does not disclose a problem, there isn't a problem, indicating that no condition that might be responsible for the problem was investigated if
Check engine light came on. Tech said small evap leak that they could not locate. They replaced gaps cap and so far so good. (Last fill up was a week before the problem, so presumably not loose cap).
Check engine light comes on every few weeks. So far always dx as minor emissions leak which they cannot find. Supposedly checking w/ HQ to determine next step. This time light went out spontaneously 5 days later, then returned in a few wks.
Bad throttle sensor. Unable to accelerate. Check Engine light on. Part replaced under warranty.
replaced timing belt and spark plugs
Replaced worn spark plugs and ignition wires.
Check engine code was engine misfire and a couple of (??) coils were replaced.
Check engine light coming on when wet out. Found arcing in engine. Replaced coils, spark plugs, wires.
Ignition coils and ignition wires failed. All needed replaced, plus spark plugs. Engine was "missing", then check engine light came on. Parts replaced, drive 1 mile, then check engine came on again. Some hose blew and needed replaced.
During timing belt replacement, hydraulic-activated belt tensioner was found to be leaking fluid and was replaced.
Belt slippage. Replaced belt tension adjuster and drive belt. Damage to drive belt was, per shop, caused by the failed tensioner.
Initial diagnosis was jumped timing. Engine seized and had to be replaced with remanufactured engine.
Oil leak from perforated cam seal.
Purchased new on 4/3. By 4/15 had check engine light come on while driving and engine seized. Used engine replaced under warranty. On new "old" engine replaced timing belt, valve cover gaskets, camshaft sensor, oil pan gasket, thermo,plgs
Blew up going down the freeway. Lost all compression.
Note this car was not always given premium gasoline and this may have contributed to it losings compression. It is not fixed yet. parked in driveway.
Noticed a noise shortly after having the timing belt done. The pulley cracked and it took forever for the shop to find the problem. After 9 days got it back. Les's Auto Palme Ma. only charged me for parts-he did a tune-up too.
Coolant leaking, radiator hoses and thermostat replaced.
Car sounds like motorboat again. gaskets, engine, tune electronic ignition, remove/replace intake manifold-upper. spark plug wires, platinum plug, ignition wires, coil, pcv valve, positive crankcase valve. cruise control still not working!
engine light on, stalls out. Pressure test on cooling system, H/C coolant leak, possible antifreeze leak as well.
Check engine light came on. Diagnosed as a O2 sensor.
The sensor was replaced. The mechanic also adjust the serpentine belt to eliminate the squealing noise
Power steering hose leaking, replaced The engine serpentine belt was noisy. The belt was replaced
Heat shield came loose, making lots of noise. A mechanic removed it at no charge. Fuel tank leaking. Replacement would cost too much for this old of a car. Retired. Car is currently on sale "as is".
part of cam shaft alignment, timing belt, water pump and oil pan replacement/repairs - total of all $1600
Dealer noted leakage from engine oil pan. Indicated that pan was rusting through not leaking from the gasket. This model year had significant recall for underbody rust. Oil pan required replacement.
leak inside the carburator unit Carburetor buildup causes auto stop when filling up at pump
Sportsshifter went out while going through a car wash. Car would not shift gears automatically and would never go into 4th or drive. TSB found that eliminated liability to the car wash. Repair shop said car is undrivable without the part
Throttle Position sensor replaced at 30K. - Under warranty
seams to lose one L of oil every fill.. went back to dealer and he said, that's normal.. Bullshit.. I picked up plugs and want to replace plugs and have a look at old plugs for show and tell , if clean, then will put a L of tranny oil,
engine crank sensor went bad. had to remove exhaust to replace part.
crank sensor quit after one month, had to get a replacement but made no difference. after troubleshooting for 4 hrs and realizing that the timing belt needs replacing soon and the condition of the all the repairs .. I decided to scrap it
Replace valve cover gasket
Replaced plugs, wires and leaky valve cover gaskets.